Im a new owner and was told that ifI wanted to use synth oil Ihad to change it, then go 200 mi and change it again is thistrue, and also ifI change the oil should I change all fluids. and if you change primary do you have to adjust it afterwards. At last what regular oil shouldI use

 

Stand clear of the person who told you about changing your synthetic oil after 200 miles. Synthetic oil and regular oil are completely compatible and will do just fine together. They even sell them mixed (partial synthetic). Dealers will limit your choices for oil, but, if you change your own, you can be very flexible. Personally, I used Redline 20W50 synthetic in my oil tank, Redline heavy Duty Shockproof in the tranny, and ATF type F in the primary. No need to change the tranny oil more than once a year - the others, every 5 K miles.

 

Ted's right- avoid the bozo that told you that like the plague.
A) He doesn't know squat about oil, and
B) He just wants to sell you more oil so he can take more of your money.

I also run Redline- best stuff I've found yet for these air-cooled engines...

 

I agree. Personally, I'm using Shockproof Heavy in the Trans. and Amsoil 20/50 in the Motor and Primary. Ted, I'm curious about the ATF route in the primary. I've seen a few folks mention it.... did you notice any difference by going with the ATF? I've tried many different products over the years and am happy with my current combo, but always willing to learn/try something new if it can help my scooter in the long run.

 

I use Amsoil 20w-50 in the engine and primary (although the hd formula + is cheaper and works just fine. The primary really doesn't need synthetic)/ I use Amsoil 75w-90 in the Transmission. Just changed mine over three weeks ago, and seems to be fine. I will do my next change at 7500 (just did the 5k), and will change all three. Adjusting the primary chain should be done, if needed. Take off the inspection cover, if you get to much play (as I did) make it a bit tighter. You may not need to, but check it just in case. I am sure there is some tool you can buy to adjust it, but I didn't need to buy anything fancy. I lossened it with the, I believe, 9/16 socket. Used a set of needle nose vice grips, grabeed the nut, and pulled it back toward me, this made sliding the adjuster up easier. There are little grooves on the adjuster bracket, and if you do not pull the nut toward you, you can not slide the adjuster up. Just a FYI. Easy enough to do yourself. Get the three o rings you will need, check and see if you need a new gasket for the primary cover (I reused mine), an oil filter, and some liquid thread sealer. I used thread tape, this time, and had a small drip. Will use the liquid stuff next time. Follow the owners manual to the T, as far as fluids go. I went a bit over on the trans, blowing out the gasket under the cover. I am taking it in Friday to get it fixed under warranty (I hope). Hope this helps, and feel free to ask all the questions you have. And welcome to the forum.

 

I use SYN 3 hd 20-50w, i have 53,021 miles, change it every 5000 miles except in the winter... due to unburned fuel it gets dirty quicker.Any good synthetic will do. I upgraded to a SE stage II and a SE 6spd at 29,000 miles and had no wear whatso ever on cyl walls/pistons/cams/gearset. It will actually lower your oil temp too !!

 

jlynn,

Agree with the rest of the folks regarding the 200 mile change out just for going to synthetic. Run away from that guy.

Having said that, I've been running a true synthetic 20/50 in the motor for years, syn 75/90 in the tranny, and just dino oil in the primary without issue. Take your pick on brands. I won't start that debate.

As for frequency, I change at 3000 just because I can. Only exception would be the motor oil if I know I'm going on a long trip into hot conditions, etc., if it has some miles on it just because the viscosity does decline with age. Takes about 20 minutes to change the motor oil to fresh and it is the life blood of the motor in an air cooled engine.

Going back to the 200 mile thing, about the only time I do a short change like that is with a new or rebuilt motor. Example, not quite a 1000 on my new SG but did a dino oil change in the motor at about 500 just because I'm that ****. Put in fresh dino oil and will change to synthetic when I do the 1000 fluid changes. With today's oil filters that is probably overkill, but I just like to keep the oil as clean as possible during break in. Having said all that, what I don't do is baby the motor too much....ride it like you always ride and get the motor used to your riding habits. Always worked for me.

Lee

 

What Ted said. End of story.