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HD Lithium Battery

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  #11  
Old 11-04-2019, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Ex-Leftcoaster
LiCo3? That's a new one. I've had an Antigravity (LiFe) battery in my Sporty for about 4 years now and it's been great, with no issues. As mentioned, you need to warm up the battery a bit in cold temps. I usually turn on the IGN first thing. By the time I get all my gear on, it cranks right up. Don't worry about the charge rate on your gauge, as the lithium batteries have a normal charge of just a tick under 14v.

Don't use your regular battery tender on your new battery, it'll screw it up fast. You might not need one, but if you have security and other stuff needing constant power, get a tender specific to your battery.
I have heard that a lot (special maintainer), yet the batteries are supposed to be "plug and play" with the STOCK charging system? Just doesn't add up to me. Basically we ride a big gasoline powered maintainer so why isn't there some modification needed in the electrical system to optimize these new batteries?
 
  #12  
Old 11-04-2019, 07:23 AM
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you have to warm the battery up first. turn on your lights for a minute before you go to crank.
This creates warmth by chemical reaction and is one of the causes for early death of lithium batteries.

Not only don't lithium like the cold they should not be charged if the temperature is 32°F, 0°C, or below.

I don't know what is in the battery for protection.
 
  #13  
Old 11-04-2019, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by btsom
I have heard that a lot (special maintainer), yet the batteries are supposed to be "plug and play" with the STOCK charging system? Just doesn't add up to me. Basically we ride a big gasoline powered maintainer so why isn't there some modification needed in the electrical system to optimize these new batteries?

All OEM replacement lithium batteries are made to work and be charged with the bike's charging system. Your bike or car charging system is different then a battery tender/maintainer.

Battery tenders and maintainers are different for regular batteries (like AGM) and lithium batteries. Your regular battery have cells and lithium have cell-packs. The voltages are different for these, so the tenders have different charging/maintenance algorithms for lithium vs regular batteries, especially for the "smart tenders".
 
  #14  
Old 11-04-2019, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy from Sandy
This creates warmth by chemical reaction and is one of the causes for early death of lithium batteries.
and yet, the battery manufacturers recommend doing this. I would think they wouldn't recommend it if it were bad for the battery.




 
  #15  
Old 11-04-2019, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by btsom
I have heard that a lot (special maintainer), yet the batteries are supposed to be "plug and play" with the STOCK charging system? Just doesn't add up to me. Basically we ride a big gasoline powered maintainer so why isn't there some modification needed in the electrical system to optimize these new batteries?
Originally Posted by Ex-Leftcoaster
All OEM replacement lithium batteries are made to work and be charged with the bike's charging system. Your bike or car charging system is different then a battery tender/maintainer.

Battery tenders and maintainers are different for regular batteries (like AGM) and lithium batteries. Your regular battery have cells and lithium have cell-packs. The voltages are different for these, so the tenders have different charging/maintenance algorithms for lithium vs regular batteries, especially for the "smart tenders".
Actually this, although factually correct, has nothing to do with charging them. The question is valid in that if a standard charging system can keep the battery happy, why not a maintainer. The answer is that a lead acid or AGM maintainer goes through de-sulphating cycles that keep that plates clean. A bikes charging system doesn't do that. If you had an old linear / manual battery charger it would keep that battery quite happy. A lithium compatible maintainer has additional sensing logic in it, but basically it doesn't do any of the lead acid battery conditioning. The reason they can keep the battery plug and play with your charging system is because the battery case houses internal electronics to make it so. One could never just put any lithium battery in a motorcycle charging system without this. The battery would be stressed and fail. You just can't charge a lithium battery that way, hence the need to house electronics with it. I hope this helps.

Also the lithium cells used in bike batteries have different chemistry than the batteries used in cell phones and laptops/tablets. So there is little concern for these batteries burning your bike down. Really no more risk than an AGM battery. That whole thing is another common misunderstanding.
 
  #16  
Old 11-05-2019, 08:58 AM
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I put one in about a week ago. I am ready to take it out. Hard as heck to start the bike when its cold. Even using some of the advice here it still does not like to start.
 
  #17  
Old 11-05-2019, 10:44 AM
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have you tried just giving it a little crank, and then stopping? rest for a second, and then try again. I have no direct experience, but I've read/heard that the first crank can be a little slow, but after that, it'll be fine.
 
  #18  
Old 11-05-2019, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by touchdown
I will stick with stock just change every two or three years.
its 2019.i own a 2008. same stock battery until a month ago. only changed it due to a hard restart. turned out it was the typical crap HD starter being undersized. installed new starter. issue gone. re-installed original 2008 for giggles, its been starting the bike no problem for a month. new one sitting on the bench. it will go back in during this winter major overhaul, mostly chassis.
my secret? keep the smart trickle charger plugged in anytime the bike is in the garage. garage is NOT heated.
thats 11 years on a stock battery.
and if any naysayers pop up, cuz this is still the web, i will gladly upload pics of the original battery, the replacement and the reciept. no BS. keep it on a trickle charger.
just the alarm draws constantly and im sure that fancy ecm draws some juice when sitting.
 
  #19  
Old 11-06-2019, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ChaosRN
Last year my lead battery started giving me grief, (2016 Ultra), so I went to the dealership, to see about a new one. After talking with a couple of folks there, (not all of them were behind the counter). I put in one of the new LiCo3 batteries. "Plug and Play install, dealership took back the old battery.
So we had a temperature drop last nite, and i went out Saturday AM, and for the first time i got a 'slow crank' response AND my radio wouldn't come on. All the lights worked, I rode Friday, (to a wake for a club member's wife),so i was on for about 30~45 minutes going and the same heading home). The gauge read 13~14 positive charge the entire time. Today after it started i was on the road for about 15 minutes. stopped and worked from 8:30 ~ 1215, went out, bike started right up and the radio lite right up and worked too!
any ideas? harbinger of greater issue coming?
Lithium Pros-
1. Light weight
2. Can be stored a long time

Lithium Cons-
1. Poor cold weather performance, lower CCA then lead acid batteries (cold cranking amps)
2. Poor reserve capacity, lead acid batteries have/store 400% more power for the same size
3. Cost

There are batteries for every purpose, sadly the marketing of Lithium batteries do not explain best purpose, which for motorcycles would really mean, racing, where weight is the primary factor and starting or reserve power is NOT a concern. I honestly do not think a quarter to a half ton motorcycle cruiser fits the best use for lithium batteries. I also have most of all the entire auto and truck industry on my side as well, its why they use lead acid batteries.
 

Last edited by alarmdoug; 11-06-2019 at 08:43 AM.
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  #20  
Old 11-06-2019, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by alarmdoug
Lithium Pros-
1. Light weight
2. Can be stored a long time

Lithium Cons-
1. Poor cold weather performance, lower CCA then lead acid batteries (cold cranking amps)
2. Poor reserve capacity, lead acid batteries have/store 400% more power for the same size
3. Cost

There are batteries for every purpose, sadly the marketing of Lithium batteries do not explain best purpose, which for motorcycles would really mean, racing, where weight is the primary factor and starting or reserve power is NOT a concern. I honestly do not think a quarter to a half ton motorcycle cruiser fits the best use for lithium batteries. I also have most of all the entire auto and truck industry on my side as well, its why they use lead acid batteries.
Good post and good thread here. I have been debating whether to add the stock HD battery to my Road King when I do the 10,000 mile service. If it is truly the case that the stock AGM battery has 400% more power than the lithium, that would seem to make the AGM a better choice for most of us. I might add that here in Southern California the cold weather performance is not a factor (nor do I tour into the snow country).
 


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