Best source for a Andrews cam and tensioner fix package?
#11
Drop the first "S" http://mcspareparts.com/
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internet troll (08-18-2019)
#13
#14
The exhaust nuts are the ONLY thing that really scare me about this job. They are rusted on tighter than a nuns butt. Im almost considering letting a local indy do the work because Im so scared of snapping a bolt off in the head. I need to start soaking them now to be ready for a winter teardown.
The only technical aspect that has me worried is positioning the cams in relation to TDC. Ive only done cam jobs on V8's. That and setting the preload on the lifters. I really need to search this forum to see if theres a soup to nuts cam swap tutorial.
#15
Hey sorry about the wrong spelling, the exhaust nuts come off a lot easier than they look. When they look really bad what I will do is spray some Kroil on them run the bike to get it hot and repeat a couple of times and let completely cool. The cams are easy there is a you tube video on jpcycles for s&s I think that goes through the whole thing even though it’s for hydraulic tensioners.
You will also either have to press out the old cams or use the oven and freezer method which works very well.
you will need a bearing puller and setter unless you can borrow one. I used the quickee push rod kit with covers.
All told this is a 5-6 hundred dollar job and is very doable for an average mechanic. The cams line up very easy.
You will also either have to press out the old cams or use the oven and freezer method which works very well.
you will need a bearing puller and setter unless you can borrow one. I used the quickee push rod kit with covers.
All told this is a 5-6 hundred dollar job and is very doable for an average mechanic. The cams line up very easy.
#16
The following users liked this post:
internet troll (08-18-2019)
#18
Hey sorry about the wrong spelling, the exhaust nuts come off a lot easier than they look. When they look really bad what I will do is spray some Kroil on them run the bike to get it hot and repeat a couple of times and let completely cool. The cams are easy there is a you tube video on jpcycles for s&s I think that goes through the whole thing even though it’s for hydraulic tensioners.
You will also either have to press out the old cams or use the oven and freezer method which works very well.
you will need a bearing puller and setter unless you can borrow one. I used the quickee push rod kit with covers.
All told this is a 5-6 hundred dollar job and is very doable for an average mechanic. The cams line up very easy.
You will also either have to press out the old cams or use the oven and freezer method which works very well.
you will need a bearing puller and setter unless you can borrow one. I used the quickee push rod kit with covers.
All told this is a 5-6 hundred dollar job and is very doable for an average mechanic. The cams line up very easy.
#19
I bought the bng/gasket kit off ebay tonight from the suggested vendor. That was a great deal.
I know where Ill be getting the cams. I need to save a bit and start shopping for the quickie pushrod setup.
Im still a little uneasy about setting up the pushrods. (I had a real bad experience setting up valve lash on a 454 and Im still gun shy) Does anybody have a good tutorial for setting the valves (specifically preload and adjustment) using quikie SS rods?
I know where Ill be getting the cams. I need to save a bit and start shopping for the quickie pushrod setup.
Im still a little uneasy about setting up the pushrods. (I had a real bad experience setting up valve lash on a 454 and Im still gun shy) Does anybody have a good tutorial for setting the valves (specifically preload and adjustment) using quikie SS rods?
#20
In that vid posted above start at 37:45 and Justin explains the anatomy of a lifter and at 42:38 he explains the difference in pushrod styles S&S offers. At 44:28 he gets into the actual adjustment of the Quickie pushrods after finding TDC. If you're not using limited travel spacers in the lifters, as most don't, then just ignore that part same as with the Easy-Start cams. The rubber bands and bent paper clips he uses to hold up the pushrods covers for easier adjustment access works rather slick.
Your factory service manual will also be useful for explaining TDC and bleed down of the lifters before you move onto the next cylinder. Be sure not to rotate that crank until the lifter has bled down. I prefer to wait about half an hour.
With new lifters I use an old school metal pistol oiler can to fill them with oil. Here's a vid explaining that; https://www.fixmyhog.com/video/insta...fters-015945/#
FPV.
Your factory service manual will also be useful for explaining TDC and bleed down of the lifters before you move onto the next cylinder. Be sure not to rotate that crank until the lifter has bled down. I prefer to wait about half an hour.
With new lifters I use an old school metal pistol oiler can to fill them with oil. Here's a vid explaining that; https://www.fixmyhog.com/video/insta...fters-015945/#
FPV.
Last edited by FPV; 08-23-2019 at 06:00 AM.