Originally Posted by MyFavRk

Bleeding brakes , especially ones that are completely empty of fluid can be a little tough . There's a good chance that you might still have air in the lines . Once you've changed the brake line , I would bleed them , don't be afraid to pump lots of fluid through , let it sit and pump more through it .

Anyone know if the hose from the reservoir to the master is supposed to be soft like squeezable ?

If I'm not mistaken , once the bleeding is complete , you should not be able to " pinch " the line . Pretty much should be hard as a rock .

Originally Posted by Cogswell

The only time I have had a brake caliper drag was from debris in the hydraulic system. A small piece of debris was lodged in the fluid return port in the master cylinder, and preventing fluid from returning to the master cylinder.

Originally Posted by Bob Blehead

If you or someone has installed wheel bearings and not SET the primary bearing first, it
will cause brake drag.
The primary side should be the brake disc side.............

Originally Posted by Electra90

Ok , the line especially where it’s under the motor is soft to the touch and squeezing it I can crush it

Originally Posted by bagga

the intake port has a very small hole and a hole about 1/8". I stuck my finger in the bore and plugged the larger hole and poured fluid into the intake port....the fluid wouldn't flow thru the very small hole. I kept my finger over the 1/8 hole and blew air into the intake port. it blew what ever was in there out. I kept the bigger hole plugged with my finger and poured fluid into the intake port and then the fluid flowed thru the very small hole. you might want to recheck it.

Originally Posted by Electra90

Thanks Bob , I picked bike up fresh rebuild to motor an tranny all bearings replaced , new front discs and pads they just didn稚 touch rear brake except pads as they said it seemed fine etc, ran 3000 kms and brake started to act funny , do you think it would do those kms if primary bearing wasn稚 set properly ? , we are talking Portuguese HD mechanics in Portugal ....damn brake is doing my head, I知 hoping the reservoir to master hose is the culprit as it痴 very soft

Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC

The bike being discussed is a 1990 model, with tapered timken roller wheel bearings...

OP: what type brake fluid is being used, any chance DOT 4 and Dot 5 could have been mixed at some point (this bike should use DOT5) ?

Have you replaced the guide bushings and pins?

Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC

Forget about what was said about a primary bearing being installed in your wheel, that process is for sealed wheel bearings, you do not have sealed wheel bearings, you have Timken Roller bearings.

Originally Posted by RIPSAW

It's very possible that the hang up is the master. Wear and improper alignment of the piston to vent intake of the reservoir will lock up the caliper. Also, if the system is new or rebuilt, the master should always be bled into itself. Then connected to banjo fitting. All bleeding needs to be done with cap off. The system is sealed relying on the bellow seal to pull down in normal operation. That is not enough for bleeding operation. Also over tighten of the master cap will squash the vent slot in the top side of the bellow . Not having air on top of bellow will keep it from coming back up. This and heat from rotor run-out can self apply brake.

Originally Posted by skinman13

Doesn't the piston close off the reservoir when it is fully depressed creating a sealed hydraulic system to actuate the caliper pistons? It seems that you would want to leave the lever extended or half-way depressed to allow the air in the lines to migrate up to the reservoir...