Anyone have any experience with the Cyco kit? Comes with adjustable pushrods, o-rings, tubes, and lifters! Pretty much everything you need for a cam swap. My 04 FLHRS is getting new cams right away but I can’t decide on pushrods. This kit comes with everything but the price scares me, they’re far cheaper then piecing together from other brands, description says they’re all OE replacements.

 

Where are you seeing this kit at? Do you have a link or something?

 

It’s on Cyco’s website as well as Eastern Performance. Called them about it and Eastern said they use them on a lot of builds. Cyco said if you get the “improved” kit they have new tapered adjustable push rods.

 

Who is Eastern and Cyco?... not important.
Stick with a name brand either https://www.fuelmotousa.com/ or https://www.sscycle.com/ . Gonna get more personal attention to questions you might have as well as their customer service is great. IMO on internal parts don't go cheap.

 

CYCO is a division of US Seal. They have been sellling gasket sets and replacement cam tensioner pads for years. I have used their gaskets sets on many builds; good quality and half the price of Cometic or James and customer service is great. I have not used the kit referenced in the OP but would not hesitate based on the quality of the other HD products CYCO sells. Their replacement cam tensioner pads have become the "go to" replacement parts since introduced a few years back and many reputable builders use the CYCO tensioners in lieu of OEM replacements. The $129.99 price for the tapered kit is not much less than the HD PN 18404-08 which sells for about $145 from an online discount HD dealer like New Castle, Surdyke, etc.; neither kit includes the lifters which CYCO sells for $49.99 each. Never used their lifters but, again, would not hesitate except for the price since Comp Cams VThunder 850-1 lifters can be shipped to your door for about $100/set. A set of S&S Standard lifters will cost about $150.

Consider replacing the cam tensioners with a set of CYCOs; you will need the install tool as well. Also replace the inner and outer cam bearings; OEM for the outer and the inners with HD PN 24017-10. The HD inner bearings are Torrington/Timken B148s which can also be purchased through a local bearing supply house but not much difference in price. Good luck with the project.

 

Great reply here, actual information based on experience with product and not a feeling about them.
I used the CYCO replacement tensioners and though have not opened the cam chest to see how they are doing I am confident they are fine.
Also have made several purchases from Eastern Performance which some of were the cams, bearings, lifters used in my upgrade.Great experience with them as well

 

I installed the cyco shoes in my 2000 FLHT at 32,000 miles which was about 20000 miles ago. Had the cam cover off last week for exhaust work and checked the shoes. They looked great, very little wear on either one. Probably won't look at them again for at least another 20000 miles.( The bike had 30000 miles on it when I bought it from the original owner in 16, so I do ride it.)

 

I used all Cyco shoes and gaskets on my previous FXSTDI and didn’t have an issue. But my original question was just in regards to the pushrods and lifters. I called CYCO directly as well as Eastern Performance. They both said they’ve seen very little if any issues with them.

There’s 2 kits offered on Easterns site made by CYCO. One is the “standard” kit which offers the tubes, o rings, lifters and standard adjustable pushrods for $130(original price $260). Then the “improved” kit which offers the same parts for $150(regular $300). This is when I called CYCO directly and asked what the difference is, they informed me the “improved” kit now comes with tapered adjustable chromoly pushrods, lifters, o-rings and tubes.

I went ahead and made the order from Eastern for the improved CYCO kit and new cams. Tensioners are to be upgraded at same time, I have a spare set of CYCO shoes and the install tool in my shop. New inner and outer bearings(FuelMoto) and all gaskets coming from DennisKirk(I live on northern border of MN so the free overnight shipping direct from there warehouse makes it better to order from them for most parts).

All I’m missing now is the bearing and cam install tools(seeing if I can borrow some but might have to bite the bullet and buy them all). The inner bearing puller and install tool is a must have without a doubt, but has anyone installed the the cams and cam plate bearings without the tools for that? I figured a block of wood with the right notches in it should work to replace the aluminum block holding tool and the correct size sockets should work to replace the other tools. Could save a guy a few $$$ that way. That and the heated camplate and cold bearings/cam method I figured would work. Now just to find an arbor press or make something similar haha!

 

Hey guys so quick update on this kit for anyone interested in the future. First off all parts in the kit look to be good quality and worked well but I will admit the pushrods can be a PITA to some for installing. When fully collapsed they JUST clear the tappet covers and then you have to mess with them a bit to get them extended far enough to be at zero lash. The instructions are lacking but they at least mentioned how many threads per inch the pushrods were so doing your own math you can find out how many turns/flats to adjust.

I will note on the lifters as well. They seem good quality and identical to “B” lifters but they did come dry. I’m not an expert on how they are usually shipped but it could be an issue for some when adjusting the pushrods, to my thoughts lifters should be soaked and shipped lubed ready to go. I soaked mine in oil a bit but while adjusting it can be difficult to find zero lash since there is no oil in the lifter for any “restriction” while adjusting. Now as long as your certain you are on the base circle of the cams and you carefully find zero lash adjusting the pushrods is easier because of this, you can almost do it without tools even. But even after adjusting this will give some people the “illusion” that they’ve either adjusted wrong or that the lifters have bled down instantly and you can continue(since you can still turn the pushrods by hand immediately after proper adjustment). BUT just to be safe you should still wait 5-10mins for proper bleed down before continuing. After doing so you will feel the difference between them, it’s not as drastic as say using your old lifters or using lifters that are full of oil but there is a difference.

Now this info will apply to just about all adjustable pushrods being installed with new lifters(or at least lifters that have little to no oil in them). But for people that second guess themselves or are very particular like I am it may help to know that. I’m not sure how critical it is either but with new installs and “dry” parts like this it won’t hurt to prime your oil pump before starting the bike to get some oil moving around in the cam chest as well as up to the lifters.

I haven’t fully completed the job or started the bike yet but after a few thousand miles I can give a full review on this kit for anyone that’s wondering.