Doing a rebuild on the factory carb (27412-99B) and the post for the float pin broke. Literally just the tip of the post broke, the pin actually still holds in the hole of the post, but it makes me uneasy.
Do I just try to use some JB Weld SteelStick (which says it will hold up submerged in gasoline, I do not run any ethanol in my fuel) or do I look for a new carb body? I see a used one on eBay for a reasonable price that is a 27412-99A (off a 2001 Electra Glide), my understanding is this carb will work fine with my bike, is this true? I would swap out the jets etc. just to be safe.
I would find a used carb and swap your stuff over. Wouldnt trust jb weld with something as critical as a float pin. I see used carbs for $100 and less all the time, should be able to find a deal out there.
I would get a new carb, rather than JB weld that post. You really need that float to work properly....
The Harley carb #27412-99, is a Keihin CV 40 Carburetor. I have one (#27412-99A) on my '01 Springer. It is an under-rated carb, and when properly tuned, actually works very well up to about 110HP.
It was used on many Harley models. Make note of your pilot & main jets, as the OEM application differences sometimes use different jets (mine are 45/190).
Go to the CV Performance website and they have many tutorials on the CV 40 Carb as well as selling parts for the CV 40 carb.
You should be able to use any CV 40 carb on your bike, as long as the jets match yours, or you transfer your jets over to the new carb. I have seen several for sale, including some described as "new" for around $180ish. Some come with a metal (versus OEM plastic) fuel hose barb, a noteworthy upgrade.
At the very least, I'd buy a cheap CV40 carb off eBay and rebuild it.... setting it up with your jets ....
Good luck..
PS- FWIW... I had a blast relearning all about carbs when I rebuilt mine. I used to rebuild carbs on my cars, dirt bikes, 3-wheelers, and other Harleys... but hadn't touched one in 25+ years..... once I took it apart and read a few things on the CV Performance web site, it all came back to me..... enjoy!
I would get a new carb, rather than JB weld that post. You really need that float to work properly....
The Harley carb #27412-99, is a Keihin CV 40 Carburetor. I have one (#27412-99A) on my '01 Springer. It is an under-rated carb, and when properly tuned, actually works very well up to about 110HP.
It was used on many Harley models. Make note of your pilot & main jets, as the OEM application differences sometimes use different jets (mine are 45/190).
Go to the CV Performance website and they have many tutorials on the CV 40 Carb as well as selling parts for the CV 40 carb.
You should be able to use any CV 40 carb on your bike, as long as the jets match yours, or you transfer your jets over to the new carb. I have seen several for sale, including some described as "new" for around $180ish. Some come with a metal (versus OEM plastic) fuel hose barb, a noteworthy upgrade.
At the very least, I'd buy a cheap CV40 carb off eBay and rebuild it.... setting it up with your jets ....
Good luck..
PS- FWIW... I had a blast relearning all about carbs when I rebuilt mine. I used to rebuild carbs on my cars, dirt bikes, 3-wheelers, and other Harleys... but hadn't touched one in 25+ years..... once I took it apart and read a few things on the CV Performance web site, it all came back to me..... enjoy!
Thanks for the info, do you happen to know if there are any differences in the 27412-99A and 27412-99B? I’ve located a fair priced 27412-99A and could swap over my jets and rebuild the carb.
Thanks for the info, do you happen to know if there are any differences in the 27412-99A and 27412-99B? I’ve located a fair priced 27412-99A and could swap over my jets and rebuild the carb.
Harley started using the CV carburetor in 1989 replacing the butterfly style carbs.... At one point they improved the accelerator pump, not sure what or when....
I do not know what, if any, difference there is between the A & B..... The letter change can be due to a design change, a manufacturing process change (that will not be noticed), or It could be as simple as they switched vendors for supplying the Keihin CV 40 carbs.
Just be careful if buying a used CV 40... over the years there were mods suggested for this carb that many believe hurt it more than helped it... like drilling a bigger hole in the slide port.... luckily these mods can be removed by replacing the modified part....
The good- almost anything in these carbs can be replaced and parts are still available
The bad- you just don't want to damage the carb body casting (as you found out) because then you need a new carb.
The replacement carburetor has the stock 190/45 jets installed. While tearing down the carb that was on the bike currently I noticed it was jetted with a 185 main and 48 pilot. Should I just assume that the prior mechanic had the bike jetted properly and re-jet the new carb with the same? I just purchased the bike February and on the short ride I was able to take I had noticed some popping during deceleration and sometimes between shifts. I had stuck a new set of plugs in just before that ride so I will take them out to give me a clue on how it was running. There was also an exhaust smell left on my jacket (leading me to think the bike was running a bit rich, but the popping seems to be consistent with a lean condition). I will be replacing the intake seals, exhaust gaskets, and torque style clamps on the slip-ons (since I had them off to put on new tires), this is in an event to eliminate an exhaust or intake leak as the culprit. I have also purchased a new air filter element for good measure.
The bike is fit with the Screamin Eagle air cleaner and after-market slip-on mufflers (not sure exactly what the brand is on these), so I am thinking a re-jet is likely appropriate. I am a bit confused as to why the pilot was increased to a 48 but the main was decreased to a 185 (is this normal?). What I am thinking I will do is leave the main jet stock at 190 and fit the new carb with a 48 pilot, adjust mixture screw and idle screw and see what the results are. At this point I must be honest, I am a bit tired of working on the bike and just want to ride it. If I can avoid having to pull the carb back off to put a different main jet in I would like to.
What are the thoughts? Do I put back in the 185/48 or go 190/48 (which is the stock main and one size larger pilot)?
I have an '01 Springer with 88ci engine. It has a Stage I (high flow air cleaner & high flow exhaust). I was able to dial it in (the CV Performance web site has the tuning instructions) with the 190/45 jets.... it originally had bad decel popping... I changed out the OEM needle to a CV Performance Velocity needle (#402-823 @ $16.19). I retuned the carb with the new needle, and it now it runs very well, with just a hint of decel popping on occasion.
I would think the 190/45 jets would suffice and leave the new carb as delivered and give it a try.... The pilot jet works in conjunction with the needle. Your current carb may have a different needle, thus needing a 48 pilot jet, or they may have fattened up the low/mid range with the 48 pilot jet to get rid of the decel popping. From what I've read, the 48 might be a little fat for that purpose and a 46 pilot jet would be better, but it's hard to find a 46 pilot jet these days.... (so I went with the performance needle).
A rich running bike can run well, but will foul plugs and have poor gas mileage. The key is to get it to run well, without being to rich remember how to read plugs?)
There's good directions on the CV Performance web site explaining on how to tune the mixture screw.... generally speaking, your mixture screw will be 1 3/4 to 2.5 turns open to run well. If you need to open the mixture screw more than 3.5 to 4 turns to get it to run correctly, you need to bump up a size on the pilot jet....
I had the same problem with decel popping and did the same thing on my first attempt at rebuilding the CV40 carb on my '01 FXD because I was too experienced to read the warning in the manual before putting my dick pullers on it. I was able to find a serviceable replacement bowl in a local customizing shop's carburetor parts and pieces box for $20 and put it back together. It had the stage 1 AC and it appeared that the previous owner had unsuccessfully tried to tune the 2-in-1 performance pipes on it with CV performance parts, and I could never get it tuned as well until I removed all of the aftermarket CV parts and replaced them with OEM. I used the early 1200 Sporty needle and a 190/50 jet combination in the final tune to get rid of the decel popping and ended up with a nice rumble. I couldn't even get the thumb idle adjust screw to work right. I checked the plugs regularly and it was running a little rich but not a problem.
03-27-2019, 09:45 PM
Help with carb for 01 Road Glide FLTR
