Possible fix for TPS connector issues?
#1
Possible fix for TPS connector issues?
I purchased a 2009 Electra Glide Ultra Classic in Mar 2018. It currently has 23k miles on it and has begun throwing a P02135 code related to the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS Voltage Correlation Error). If you poke around the forums and Google, you'll find a lot of info on the code. Basically, there are two throttle position sensors used to determine the throttle plate's position. If they disagree, the code is thrown and the ECM goes into the dreaded "limp mode".
My bike first threw the code around 20k miles in July. I inspected the connection and didn't see any problems... so clean & use a bit of dielectric grease for preventative measure then clear the code and ride. Fast forward two months and 3k miles later... it came back. I re-inspected the connection... still looks good. I cleared the code and the bike fired up. I inspected the wires at the plug and didn't find any places that looked like there might be a broken wire under the insulation. While the bike was running... I wiggled and tugged the connector... BINGO! Several codes were thrown (I didn't record them). I pulled the plug, reconnected, cleared the codes and all was good again... but if I wiggled the connector, it would happen again.
So I was not sure if there was a problem with the shortness of the connector's pigtail causing stress on the connection... a broken wire... worn out pins in the connector or what. I took the bike for a short ride and all was good... rode it again a few days later and went into "limp mode" again. I stopped, pressed the connector into the socket and rode again... till the next time it came back about 10 miles later.
It got me to thinking... could I open the connector and "tighten" the female pins inside the connector? After a bit of internet searching, I learned how to open the connector by pulling the plastic plate inside the connector off. This exposed the pins. I then used a pair of needle-nose pliers to squeeze the opening in the pins flatter... then re-installed the plastic plate... I didn't even have to remove the pins from the connector. Afterward, I tried wiggling the connection to see if I could cause it to throw the codes like before... I couldn't.
I have not ridden far since doing this... but so far so good. If it doesn't come back after a few months... I'll consider it a success.
Maybe this info will encourage others before replacing the pins and/or extending the pigtail... or even soldering the wires to the sensor's pins as I read someone had done. It was a no-cost and easy "possible fix"... and took me like 10 minutes to complete.
Ride Safely!
John.
My bike first threw the code around 20k miles in July. I inspected the connection and didn't see any problems... so clean & use a bit of dielectric grease for preventative measure then clear the code and ride. Fast forward two months and 3k miles later... it came back. I re-inspected the connection... still looks good. I cleared the code and the bike fired up. I inspected the wires at the plug and didn't find any places that looked like there might be a broken wire under the insulation. While the bike was running... I wiggled and tugged the connector... BINGO! Several codes were thrown (I didn't record them). I pulled the plug, reconnected, cleared the codes and all was good again... but if I wiggled the connector, it would happen again.
So I was not sure if there was a problem with the shortness of the connector's pigtail causing stress on the connection... a broken wire... worn out pins in the connector or what. I took the bike for a short ride and all was good... rode it again a few days later and went into "limp mode" again. I stopped, pressed the connector into the socket and rode again... till the next time it came back about 10 miles later.
It got me to thinking... could I open the connector and "tighten" the female pins inside the connector? After a bit of internet searching, I learned how to open the connector by pulling the plastic plate inside the connector off. This exposed the pins. I then used a pair of needle-nose pliers to squeeze the opening in the pins flatter... then re-installed the plastic plate... I didn't even have to remove the pins from the connector. Afterward, I tried wiggling the connection to see if I could cause it to throw the codes like before... I couldn't.
I have not ridden far since doing this... but so far so good. If it doesn't come back after a few months... I'll consider it a success.
Maybe this info will encourage others before replacing the pins and/or extending the pigtail... or even soldering the wires to the sensor's pins as I read someone had done. It was a no-cost and easy "possible fix"... and took me like 10 minutes to complete.
Ride Safely!
John.
#3
I'm still receiving the P2135. What do you suggest... because honestly, right now I'm throwing up my hands and about ready to take it to the dealer and pull out the credit card.
Thanks,
John.
#4
I have an 08 cvo road king and had the same issue. Dud all the cheap internet fixes to no avail. I had replaced my throttle body a year prior with a 58mm and yes 53 weeks in it was done , 52 week warranty . So I took thst little plastic cover off my old one left side of the throttle body and that's where the tps are...i swapped out my old one thst I knew was good and worked like a charm, unfortunately harley says it's a non serviceable part. But I'll bet you a beer that's your problem. .yes I had the same code
#5
Yeah... that's what I'm thinking. I was searching for a replacement TPS... to no.avail. I looked at the throttle body on the bike... that plastic cover looks like it's not supposed to be serviceable. I suspected it was all "integrated" into the throttle body.
Well, I don't have a spare throttle body sitting around... so I need to check into my options... maybe I upgrade.
Thanks,
John.
Well, I don't have a spare throttle body sitting around... so I need to check into my options... maybe I upgrade.
Thanks,
John.
#6
All that holds it on are those 8 little metal clips. I'd look on here for a used one for sale or I got my 58mm from boardtracker.com for 350. .I think I saw one recently for around 250. Unfortunately that's the only way to fix it. All the electronics are in that little cover everything else is mechanical...gears and servo motors.
#7
I see the TB in the classifieds for $250 (OBO). I'm also following up on one I found on eBay and will check with an independent shop here in town when they open to see if they have a take-off laying around for sale.
I have a couple questions...
John.
I have a couple questions...
- Regarding the clips that hold the "control module" on... do they just lift/pry off the side or do you have to bend them up to remove the module?
- It looks like the same module is on TBs for other TBW years.. do you know if they're interchangeable (so long as the module looks the same, with the same plug)?
John.
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#8
Ok... I think I have found my problem.
After talking with the local independent mechanic in town, he didn't have any used TBs laying around and told me the TBs don't usually go bad (from his experience)... he said it's been his experience there's some other problem. He offered to hook it up to his fancy computer... for $95 and I was about ready to do that.
Then I went back to the drawing board... cleared the codes... started the bike... wiggled the wires/connector... it threw codes. Then I tried to figure out whether it was the wires or the connector by holding the connector still while wiggling the wires. I suspected something with the wires.
I took the plug back apart... removed each pin and inspected the wires closer... I found the black/white (or maybe black/yellow) had a break in it under the insulator. I soldered about 3" of wire into it and covered it with heat shrink... that seems to have fixed it... it passed the wiggle/pull wires test anyhow.
Now to ride it and confirm the codes don't come back.
Thanks for the help!
John.
After talking with the local independent mechanic in town, he didn't have any used TBs laying around and told me the TBs don't usually go bad (from his experience)... he said it's been his experience there's some other problem. He offered to hook it up to his fancy computer... for $95 and I was about ready to do that.
Then I went back to the drawing board... cleared the codes... started the bike... wiggled the wires/connector... it threw codes. Then I tried to figure out whether it was the wires or the connector by holding the connector still while wiggling the wires. I suspected something with the wires.
I took the plug back apart... removed each pin and inspected the wires closer... I found the black/white (or maybe black/yellow) had a break in it under the insulator. I soldered about 3" of wire into it and covered it with heat shrink... that seems to have fixed it... it passed the wiggle/pull wires test anyhow.
Now to ride it and confirm the codes don't come back.
Thanks for the help!
John.
#9
Ok... I think I have found my problem.
... I found the black/white (or maybe black/yellow) had a break in it under the insulator. I soldered about 3" of wire into it and covered it with heat shrink... that seems to have fixed it... it passed the wiggle/pull wires test anyhow.
... I found the black/white (or maybe black/yellow) had a break in it under the insulator. I soldered about 3" of wire into it and covered it with heat shrink... that seems to have fixed it... it passed the wiggle/pull wires test anyhow.
The black/white wire seems to be a weak point.
gravnov
Last edited by gravnov; 09-19-2018 at 01:55 PM.
#10