Bike is '98 Road King Classic. Stock bike, 28K miles. Problem is with headlight circuit. No headlight or spot lights. All other lights OK. Relays appear to function OK. Can't be the Hi/Lo switch as no power to connector in the headlight bucket. All fuses show as OK, never blown. If I bypass (apply) 12V to six pin connector, headlight and spot lights work. If I have this right, power is on the Blue wire. Where does Blue wire go into frame? Can anyone provide a PDF copy of the schematic? Can someone confirm there is no relay for headlights?

 

You state:
"All fuses show as OK"
Consider removing each fuse and checking each fuse with a continuity tester.

 

I'll rephrase: Each Fuse check with light probe on each side of fuse and each of the fuse's tabs connector in the socket. Power going in and out of all fuses.

 

Try this link for the wiring diagrams

https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson..../view?id=62670

Power from the "Lights" fuse on a BE (Blue) wire to the Hi/Lo switch
From Hi/Lo switch - W (White) = High Y (Yellow) = Low to headlight socket

 

Thanks for the link to the wiring diagram. The diagram documents the Blue lead in question. I can apply 12 Volts to the leads after the fuse to activate the tail light, but no effect to the other lead to the head light. In essence no power going to the head light bucket. I'll see if I can trace the lead from the stop lamp relay. That may help.

 

That Blue wire should bring power to the tail light, and both front running lights besides the headlight switch. Are your front running lights working? If yes, then you probably have power up to the front of the bike. I would find the 6 pin connector (24A & B) and check for power on the BE wire there. If you have it there, then check at the Hi/Lo switch.

 

Two Blue wires leave the fuse, and hit a few in bundle splices. No power to the bucket on the six pin connector but was on the running lights. Suspect a factory splice under the tank went bad. Rather than yanking the tank and dealing with injection connections, etc., I ran a separate 14AWG blue wire in the bundle (using stiff solid gauge wire as a pull) to the fuse block and spliced in. All OK now. If the tank ever comes off for some reason and I get access to the bundle, then I'll try to repair go back to original wires. Thanks for the suggestions.