I have a 2013 Electra glide heats up after 30 min of riding, then oil pressure drops to 0 psi at idle, 20 at 3000 rpms. engine dies at stoplight. how do i know if low pressure oil is from heat from running lean or oil not circulating?

 

 

yes, marks full. on cold starts engine runs fine. oil pressure is good. so it cant be my oil pump right?

 

Normal for pressure to drop to near 0 when it's hot. Maybe your EITMS or whatever it's called is activated?

 

psi drops to 20 at 50mph. loss of power and the engine feel hotter than usual. that low oil pressure cant be normal

 

somethings up with it. it shouldn't drop that low, at least mine doesn't. mine runs about 36 going down the road. i would get it checked out.. have you installed a new oil filter lately ? could be a bad filter. it's happen tp me before with a car. cheap enough to try a new one.

 

I did put a new frame filter 500 miles ago.

 

Welcome to the forum.
But a lot of unanswered questions here that need to be answered.

1) How many miles on the bike?
2) What mods have been done?
3) Has the bike ever been tuned?
4) Do you have the tuner (and what tuner?)
5) Are you the first owner?
6) What oil are you using?
7) Is your EITMS activated?
8) Is this your first Harley?
9) How good are you at working on the bike?

There are probably some I have left out, but this will give us some background to work with.

You live in a warmer area.
Yes, given the reputation of the Harley oil pressure gauge and the design of the Twinkies, once fully warmed up in hot weather the gauge could read close to if not at zero at idle, but 20 psi at 3000 rpm seems a little low.

First you need to answer all the above questions, but I will give you one scenario that you could consider:
The oil pressure relief valve spring could have weakened over time.
You would need a special tool (Fueling makes one, http://www.feulingparts.com/products.../Camplate/9010)
and there are instructions and YouTube videos that show how to use it.)

Personally I would not (did not) buy one for a presumably a one-time use (when I needed one I rigged something out of Plexiglas and clamps, but it was not as accurate and I don’t make a living doing this, but it did the job.)

Perhaps you could find an indie or dealer that could test your cam-plate for you.
The oil pressure relief valve spring could have weakened over time, especially if exposed to constent high temps. The valve and/or the valve bore could be damaged and/or have debris obstructing them.
(Which is why, FWIK, most reputable builders will inspect the valve and bore, and just as routine replace the spring with something like a Baisley spring to avoid problems down the line.)

But, depending on your answers to the questions asked, and the results of the cam-plate testing, your problem could be resolved by something as simple as replacing the oil pressure relief spring (along with the gaskets and labor needed) or it may be more complicated.

What was found when the cam chest was pulled?
Do the cam bearings need replacing?
Lifters, cam, cam chain tensioners, oil pump?
(Do not forget to check your cam run-out once you open the cam chest.)
Is your engine running too lean?


Also, unless you really like the air temp gauge, HD has an oil temp gauge that can replace it (if you have the desire and the money.)

Good Luck finding an answer.
.

 

Get the Baisley spring. Mine runs 45psi hot down the road. 10-12 idle hot. The Harley spring is sad in comparison.

 

The first thing I'd do before riding the bike again is to replace the FRAM filter with a Wix or OEM filter designed for a Twin Cam Harley. Especially if that's the only thing that's changed and you had no problem before. I run a Baisley spring in my 2002 but that's really only an issue for early Twin Cams. You have a different oil pump and I don't think that's it.