Maybe this has been asked and maybe not. I can't seem to find any info relating to what I am asking.

Is there such a thing as cams that are setup with gears so that a chain isn't needed behind the cam plate, but you have the option of running the chain and tensioner on the front of the plate? That way, if and when you go into the cam chest, you only have to change out the front hydraulic tensioner if it needs it and you will never have to worry about the rear tensioner because it has been eliminated with the cams geared together, Thus not having to remove the cam plate. Only having to replace the outer tensioner would be easy peezy and make life so much easier.

 

Yes. There is an expensive gear drive cam upgrade. It does whine though.

 

Just so we are on the same wavelength. Not looking for a gear on the front running off the crank. Looking to run a chain off the crank with a tensioner.

Any links for these cams?

 

Sounds like a great idea but I don't think there is any as you discribe. Then you can run them no matter what the crank run out.

 

hydrolics arent the problem the spring loaded where. checked em on my 07 at 30 and again at 55,,000 and didnt even replace while i was there very little wear.

 

The difference between the gear drive cams and chain drive cams are behind the cam plate. Once you go to the expense and time of :
Checking your run out to be sure you can use gear drive cams
Buying the gear drive cams
Buying the gears for the cams
Installing the cams, with gears, into the cam plate.

It would be kinda of silly not to add the gears to the front of the cam plate.... NOT using the gears in front of the cam plate.... what is the advantage?

I see none.....

 

The advantage would be u don't have to pull the cam plate again, which for some means not having to pull tank & rockers.

 

Yeah, but if you use the outside gears.... you never have to pull the cam chest COVER again....!

Again, I can't think of a reason NOT to use the full gear set..... JMHO

 

Checking the run out is for the crankshaft that has nothing to do with how the cams run (independent of the crank). The cams run true and have no run out concerns themselves.
The concern is the gears on the outside of the plate where one of the gears is attached to a crankshaft that has to be within tolerance in order to work correctly.

What is the advantage of not using the gears in the front? What if the crank run out is out of tolerance to use gears on the front. In this situation, you can still have the option to run a chain on the front and keep the cams (geared together) behind the plate with no hydraulic tensioner to ever be replaced so the only maintenance would be replacing the front hydraulic tensioner whenever that may be. No pulling the gas tank and rocker boxes if using solid pushrods. No re-adjusting quickee pushrods, extra gaskets, o-rings etc.

When you say that you don't see any advantage, look a little outside the box. A major project turned into a super simplified 30 minute job and your off and riding again and only need one cam chest gasket. So that is an extreme advantage in my book.

 

I have to admit, I didn't think of the run out only affecting the front gears (crank to cams).... You are certainly thinking out side the box....

With that said, the gear drive cams for a hydraulic tensioner cam plate are different from the gear drive cams for a spring tensioner cam plate. You'd need "conversion" gear cams. Can't say I've ever heard of them....

Of course, you could always machine the older twin cam bearing engine, to accept the new size inner cam bearings. Then you could use the '07+ gear drive cams and cam plate... I just don't know if the chain pulley will bolt up to the gear drive cam? Can't see why they'd be different...

I guess that would be cheaper, than fixing the crank run out....

But then again, by all reports, the hydraulic tensioners are lasting well past 50K miles.... I've read of a few claiming 100K with more to go.....

I did not have any hesitation converting my '03 Heritage to conversion cams with hydraulic tensioners..... even though my run out was .0022... and I used the OEM pushrods, so I had to pull my tank and rocker arms. I drilled out the rocker plate drain holes (to 0.125") and switched to the new-style breather assemblies while in the rocker box.

Post up if you find a way to pull off the front chain/rear gear cam idea.....