Help with gasket placement 07 road king
#1
Help with gasket placement 07 road king
So while back I drop the rag in my crank case I had a bunch of people helping me out on here I’m finally just getting around to putting the bike back together. I’ve got my manual I ordered a factory Harley Davidson top end gasket kit. I’m ready to set the cylinders I need to make sure I do not miss any O rings or anything else I know the base gasket is one large O ring for the cylinder. But are they are small o-rings on the bottom of the cylinder?I remember pulling out a small green o- ring I believe that was from the top side I’m a little confused looking at my service manual it’s not showing any O rings that go on with the head gasket either and I know for sure that I pull something off please give me a hand I would greatly appreciate it
#3
I had a similar DAM (dumb *** moment). I dropped a straw down the cylinder through the spark plug hole while looking for top dead Centre during a cam change. I had to pull my rear head. There was no o rings securing the head down. Just the gasket. There may be one for the breather I honestly don't recall and I'm away from home so can't check my pics or service manual. I haven't had the jugs off on this bike so I can't tell you if there is o rings around the base bolts or not. I would look at an on-line parts microfiche it will show you all the parts for a top end tear down. Good luck and glad you're getting her back together.
#4
GasketsI have my service manual out looking at the microfiche or break down and I can bet my life that I pulled back green still out but it is not showing in my service man
I pulled this thing apart like I month ago or more been messing with it on and off cleaning in getting all the rag out of the crank case. My cylinder its on one big O ring then there is a small green one I wasn’t sure if that was on the base or that went up on the head gasket. Of course something so small stopping me from putting it together Harley gives no explanation of what Oh rings go where with their stock kits.I have my service manual out looking at the microfiche or break down and I can bet my life that I pulled a green oring out but it is not showing in my service manual
#6
If you are using Harley gaskets, the o-rings for the oil drains between the head and cylinder are built into the head gasket.
For the base, there will be an o-ring under the cylinder around the dowel where the oil returns to the case in addition to the cylinder base o-ring.
For the base, there will be an o-ring under the cylinder around the dowel where the oil returns to the case in addition to the cylinder base o-ring.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; 05-27-2018 at 06:43 PM.
#7
Nothing but issuesIn the order you’re supposed to pull the head off and realized I didn’t even put the gasket on. Do you think that I hurt anything? I called the bike shop and they actually put a set of head gaskets out in the mailbox for me because
Ed So I just started working on the bike again I got all the parts and everything.Have had no time to mess with it. Today while trying to put the heads on somebody walked in the garage and distracted me I put the head on The rear cylinder and Started to torque it down realized the first step is to inch pounds. I had it set to foot pounds.I’m not sure how tight I actually cranked it definatley more than I was supposed too.I realized and immediately broke it loose In the order you’re supposed to .i pulled the head off and realized I didn’t even put the gasket on.At least I don’t think I did .I was so frustrated I look down and see it laying on the ground. I guess it could have came off with the head and fell off. I’m really not sure.Do you think By torquing it with no gasket or overtorquing it with the gasket I have hurt anything?definatley not risking a bad head gasket so I called the bike shop and they actually put a set of head gaskets out in the mailbox for me because they were closing.So I’m going to put new gaskets on it do you think that I need to replace the cylinder base o- rings or anything else?obviously everything is brand new. And it has not been started. This thing is fighting me every step of the way. I don’t know why.
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#8
It's fighting you because you need to step back, follow the manual and take your time.
Lightly lube the base o-ring and dowel o-ring. As long as you didn't cut it, I believe you will be fine. If you are the kind of person who won't be able to live with it, just replace them now as they are only a few dollars. They may wick some of your assembly oil at first then it will go away.
The first step is 144 in/lb. Are you saying you were tightening to 144 ft/lb? If you tightened it that far, I would be examining the cylinder studs for pulling from the case as well as measuring all the studs to be sure none are stretched longer than the others. If you went that far, I'd seriously consider replacing studs. Only you know how much you tightened.
If you only tightened it to 20 or 30 ft/lb without a gasket, I believe you'll be fine.
You should be able to look at the gasket and tell if it was crushed.
If you are reinstalling with H-D composite gaskets (not SE metal), do the two steps in in/lb, then tighten in sequence to 35 ft/lb, then loosen and perform the FSM sequence in/lb steps then 90 degree turn. If using aftermarket gaskets, follow their instruction.
Lightly lube the base o-ring and dowel o-ring. As long as you didn't cut it, I believe you will be fine. If you are the kind of person who won't be able to live with it, just replace them now as they are only a few dollars. They may wick some of your assembly oil at first then it will go away.
The first step is 144 in/lb. Are you saying you were tightening to 144 ft/lb? If you tightened it that far, I would be examining the cylinder studs for pulling from the case as well as measuring all the studs to be sure none are stretched longer than the others. If you went that far, I'd seriously consider replacing studs. Only you know how much you tightened.
If you only tightened it to 20 or 30 ft/lb without a gasket, I believe you'll be fine.
You should be able to look at the gasket and tell if it was crushed.
If you are reinstalling with H-D composite gaskets (not SE metal), do the two steps in in/lb, then tighten in sequence to 35 ft/lb, then loosen and perform the FSM sequence in/lb steps then 90 degree turn. If using aftermarket gaskets, follow their instruction.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; 05-27-2018 at 08:36 PM.
#9
Wow
Thanks Ed yes I need to step back. I’m sure I didn’t go over 30ft/lb. I’m using stock HD gaskets just like installed in factory.so you are saying to first torque to 144 in/lb then torque to 35 ft/lb break them loose and then repeat to factory service manual specs? The last torque spec is 17 ft/lb . Seems low to me.thats why I kept cranking and then realized something was wrong. Is that the “squish” I’ve heard people talking about?are you supposed to do 120in/lb then 144 in/lb then 15ft/lb etc??? I thought they were saying torque them to anything between 120-144...I already installed the heads with new gaskets followed service manual 144in/lb then 17ft/lb then 90...why the heck wouldn’t they tell me to go to 35ft/lb and break loose.looks like I’m buying more gaskets.
#10
In the pic above add step between c & d and torque to 35 ft/lb. Then loosen bolts (not flopping loose - leave slightly snugged so head and gasket stay in place) and do exactly as listed in the book above.
The reason they use a torque angle spec is because it it more accurate. The low torque seats everything and the angle makes everything tighten the same.
My advice on the 35 is a pre-squish on the gasket. When I was at Harley, SE used to re-torque everything after heat cycles - this was never disclosed in any instructions. With the method I am telling you, your head gaskets will be rock solid.
Put a couple of drops of oil into the head bolts and blow out with compressed air - you just want a light film on the threads. Put a light film of oil under the head bolt collars when installing.
The reason they use a torque angle spec is because it it more accurate. The low torque seats everything and the angle makes everything tighten the same.
My advice on the 35 is a pre-squish on the gasket. When I was at Harley, SE used to re-torque everything after heat cycles - this was never disclosed in any instructions. With the method I am telling you, your head gaskets will be rock solid.
Put a couple of drops of oil into the head bolts and blow out with compressed air - you just want a light film on the threads. Put a light film of oil under the head bolt collars when installing.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; 05-27-2018 at 09:58 PM.