I'm working on a 01 FLHRCI Road King Classic that has been sitting for a while and the lines are clogged. I removed the lines and figured I had better go further because they didn't look to good.I removed the canopy and the inside of the tank had condensation and the tank looked like the factory had put a grey primer inside and it was all peeling off. I know it's not primer but it's a coating of some sort. I'm going to replace the check valves, fuel pump, fuel regulator and fuel filter. Probably the injection lines also due to a valve in the end of them. Even the grommet around the fuel gauge is loose. Anyway that's the situation and here's the question: What is the best way to get all of the coating out of the fuel tank? Some of it is not peeling that the gas didn't touch. It's a real mess in there and I want to get it as clean as possible. Advise...

 

Long time ago I coated a tank and used pieces of chain and string to hang in there, shake it around rinse and repeat

 

Empty the fuel tank, tape up the fuel outlet and put in a couple sections of window sash chain. Put the cap back on and shake the tank. Take off the cap and blow out with air, repeat a few times and re-install. Keep the tank topped up (this is what I do) or put in a new liner like POR 15. The liner came from the factory and eventually peels off.

 

Is it a vacuum operated fuel ****?
Most are, and they will not let much fuel through if not running.
They should be tossed.

 

The "I" means injected.

If a vacuum petcock is working properly it won't let ANY fuel thru it without vacuum from the engine running or cranking.

 

I get lost in time-space....I still live in carb land.
Was just trying to help--yes my fault, you have FI.

 

Remove tank, remove stuff from inside tank and use the sash chain as suggested...the reason for the sash chain instead of loose bolts is that the chain will be easier to catch after each cleaning and you will not have loose items left in the tank...
The sash chain also creates a bit of scrubbing as it clumps into different areas.
As you put fuel in the tank to wash-out the tank and drain again...remember that fuel can be filtered with a coffee filter in order to re-use fuel to clean inside of tank again.
When you have gone through drain-filter-pour process multiple of times then discard that fuel and do a final clean fuel rinse.
Consider NOT buying and replacing parts...clean the parts that you have and see if the bike starts.
Changing multiple parts on a bike that is not operable might introduce more variables in trying to figure-out what is required to make it run.
Then once all parts are clean and bike starts, consider what parts should be changed.
There is a filter sock, another filter, a pump screen and fuel injectors have a screen too.
Those filters make it rather difficult for liner pieces to make it all the way to injectors under most circumstances.
Clean stuff first and get it operational then work on isolating replacements and checking tire condition/date.
Note: Bolts for access panel are suppose to be ONE time bolts and the cork gasket might require replacement.
It reads like bike has probably been parked for several years.

 

I use abrasive black magic, half of a cup will do. Then place thick rag or foam rubber around tank place on your paint shaker for 20 minutes, rotating at different angles to achieve total cleaning. Empty out, clean with soap & water. Apply Eastwoods phosphate & seal coating for motorcycle fuel tanks, your good for years.

B Bop

2012 FLHR (Road King) Stage II Red Ember Sunglo/Merlo Sunglo, Original HD Chrome Laced Profile Aluminum Spoke Tubeless Rims, ABS, Cruise Control, Security Package, Saddlebag LED Spoiler lights, and array of nostalgic & performance accessories that enhances appearance & blood curdling performance.

It’s a shame there is nothing available today that can measure white knuckles & big a$$ smiles.

 

A previous owner has probably sealed the tank and now it is peeling. I have heard Acetone will remove the sealer from the tank walls then you can proceed to clean tank. You have to be careful with getting the Acetone on painted surfaces.

 

[QUOTE=B Bop;17374496]I use abrasive black magic, half of a cup will do. Then place thick rag or foam rubber around tank place on your paint shaker for 20 minutes, rotating at different angles to achieve total cleaning. Empty out, clean with soap & water. Apply Eastwoods phosphate & seal coating for motorcycle fuel tanks, your good for years.

B Bop

B Bop,
Helpful answer. I don't know but want to know why after getting the inside clean does it need to be re-coated? Does the steel in the tank need protection from the fuel? The coating seems to come off anyway so why re-coat?