My 05 road king does the same thing.
Seems to happen more when it's hot.
I found that if I bump the starter button just a bit, then let off,
it seems to start a lot easier. Might have something to do with
where the pistons are after you shut it off.
If they are at the top of the stroke, it might make the bike harder to start.
Tapping the starter causes them to rebound enough to make the next try a little easier.
Maybe the stock starter doesn't have the nut to do it's job when the piston is at TDC.
A beefier starter should help with the problem.
I think the scary sounding clank/banging is the compensator, maybe yours is worn out?
I do hear a bit of what sounds like gears grinding too, so that could be part of the noise.
The thing sounds like it's about ready to explode when it does it. I got used to it.
My Eglide did the same thing.
The starter tap works for me.

 

A while back ago I would have the kick back on my 02 Superglide and I figured out I didn't let the engine spin enough before releasing the starter button. The crank position sensor would "read" the notches and fire but not enough speed on the flywheel to keep it running and thus a kick back and back fire thru the carb (with burnt fuel smells). Each bike builds it's on character. Hope I described this correctly.

 

no, when you hit the run switch, you can hear an audible 'click' from them.

 

3 biggest things

1) have a good battery, connections and corrosion free cables.

2) If starter drive has been kicking back, replace the starter clutch - very easy. Once they start kicking back/banging making the horrendous grind, they're usually damaged. If it's the conventional jackshaft starter used on EVOs and Twin Cams before they went to the new compensator/starter, it uses a toyota clutch. I get mine from an automotive rebuilder - rock solid. Google it. The H-D stock and 1.4KW starters came with the same starter clutches and solenoid contacts out of the box.

3) Inspect and if necessary replace the contacts and plunger in the solenoid - they get worn and are a big cause of poor power transfer and resulting kickback - very easy and a kit is about 15$. Most people overlook this and the cycle repeats if they only replace a clutch. You will see the plunger literally wears through them. The plunger ring and contacts will usually be in rough shape.

Doing the above is typically all that's necessary to have a kickback free experience (and if your motor has a lot of compression don't forget compression releases). You will not have to bump the starter or cringe and hope every time you go to start.

 

No. Most will give off a slight click. But a hesitation could be a sign that they are not working. Were they turned on when the 103 was installed? Check all connections to them to make sure power is getting to them. A 103 with operating ACR's should never kickback.

 

No. Most will give off a slight click. But a hesitation could be a sign that they are not working. Were they turned on when the 103 was installed? Check all connections to them to make sure power is getting to them. A 103 with operating ACR's should never kickback.
Reply With Quote had a chance ride today. don't think the cfr's are working. turned the switch, nothing but fuel pump priming. hit the starter button, it kickedback. even held the button tight. i will have that checked out. thanks for the help.

 

My 2011 FLTRU had the same problem. It was intermittent and only happened when the weather was cold and the bike had been ridden for a while and then cooled back down. I finally discovered through trial and error that if I turned off the ignition switch and started the whole starting sequence over it started just fine. I traded the bike before I ever figured out what caused it to do that. I always assumed my starter clutch was going bad, which is what the mechanic at my local independent shop told me.

 

What year bike and any motor mods?

 

I Had that problem! I replaced my heads last week. when I change them I replaced the ACR's at same time. I tested the ohm's on old ones they was higher than new ones. The ECM is the ground switch to turn them on. P.S. The hotter the motor the higher the ohm's will be. On my bench testing they all worked off of a 12 volt battery. ??? And yes I'm running 10.6 compression.

 

Starter grind noise when the bike is hot. Maybe that the primary chain is to tight and pulling on the clutch assy. Which will misalign the starter drive to ring gear. I replaced the automatic tensioner. I've broken teeth off the ring gear till figured that out.