if you take your bike to a dealer and leave it over night, i highly doubt they take the bike for a ride to let it warm up. i would think cold oil changes are the norm at the dealers.

 

Also, something to remember, when I am done with my oil change I do not always clean up the pan immediately. What I typically do is pour the pan of oil into my 5 gallon vacuum oil changer I use for changing my boat oil. After dumping the pan I hang it from a wire over a funnel on the mouth of the said jug. After sitting like this for an overnight that pan is pretty clean. I do not see a lot of reason to worry that leaving the plug out overnight does not produce the same results on the inside of the oil pan sump.

My personal opinion is that the hot or warm oil change is a process that was NEEDED when oil was a fixed viscosity and flowed horribly slow unless it was hot. Now that we have 5W-20 and even 0W-20 it makes it appear that it flows BETTER cold.

Most of the reason for changing the oil at a specific time in a modern engine is based on the condition of the additive package. A good drain and fill with fresh oil is sufficient. The metal flakes and other junk are still in suspension in the oil in the pan as evidence by the stuff in the pan.

 

 

Well, Ed, I now see why people avoid talking about oil. Too easy to take things out of context. From now on I too will entirely avoid the subject...entirely.

It amazes me though the level of attention spent in the forum on what the 'proper' oil and tires should be (not directed at you) but neglect of brake fluid and other needed maintenance.

My Dad used to tell me never to talk about religion or politics at parties...I suppose that extends to oil, tires, headlight bulbs.... Sounds like great advice...

 

It's not about oil as much as a proper procedure. The reason I emphasize allowing it to run on the jiffy stand is that the result is an unintentional overfill which results in excessive oil carryover into the breathers until the system finds equilibrium. That plus unintentionally leaving dirty oil in the engine. Most people don't think that far down the line.

Having seen Softails with 6 quarts in them on numerous occasions, I can tell you it's not something you want to see once the tank can't take any more return oil.

As the M8's come out, they may have different instructions on how to change the oil. I have not read that manual so I cannot comment.

One key thing is - manufacturers instruct on a procedure to ensure the maximum amount of old oil is removed and the procedure varies from engine to engine.

 

It clatters because a lifter was on a cam ramp and the lifter bled down. The oil filter does not keep pressure on the lifters. That also happens badly to people who trailer it in gear.

 

It drains forward, not backwards. The oil in the filter gradually drains through the bearings and such of the engine, out the lowest point. It will drain down until the oil level in the filter (and upstream) is at the lowest level of the boss the filter threads onto.

You don't experience this with a hot oil change because not enough time has taken place for the oil to drain down. Let the engine sit for an hour or two and you may.

You can sorta see it here in this picture of the oil flow through the filter.

 

Lot of non reading or comprehension, dude said it's sat for months...when he put new oil in, it was not higher. No one mentioned gravity, it's not going anywhere. An engine sits, gravity will ensure it's at the lowest point regardless of temperature. End of the day, to each their own. He relays his experience and it's not wrong anymore than "your" way is right. And lastly, the filter is there to contain the "contamination" that results. Running the engine to operating temperature isn't going to get more suspended contaminants out?? That's in the filter. Unless you have never changed oil and if that's the case being warm or cold isnt going to matter. My .02, Peace!

 

The irony. Last post was over 4 years ago

 

Exactly!