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Fork oil vs riding style

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  #1  
Old 03-05-2018 | 05:08 AM
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Default Fork oil vs riding style

I'm starting to see a very minor seep on my left fork leg. No biggie, needs seals. I don't plan on changing cartridges or springs yet. I'd like to try an oil change first.

I like the compliant ride of the stock oil (10w?) but hate the brake dive. I do like to push the bike from time to time and there are also some pavement changes/sharp bumps on my commute that jar the front end pretty harshly. I dont ride ride it like a sport bike and I don't expect it to handle like one. I'd just like to firm up the front end a bit.

What are you guys experiences with different weight oils? I've personally never tried them.

 
  #2  
Old 03-05-2018 | 06:40 AM
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As far as I know it’s better to use a heavier oil, between 10w and 15w which can give better dampening characteristics to the wee strom forks. The wee forks will respond well to a heavier spring with a heavier oil. I think stay 10w or so if you are on the road and go up to a 15w if you're off road.
http://blog.bikersstickers.com/
 
  #3  
Old 03-05-2018 | 07:03 AM
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If your ride is somewhat jarring on your routes, it's going to be more jarring with thicker oil. The suspension design is the flaw, not the oil. By swapping to a thicker oil like SE, you're effectively making dogshit into stiffer dogshit. You'll also lose some responsiveness when cornering too. Your best bet, since you gotta pull the forks apart anyway, is to just upgrade the internals. And depending on your mileage, you might want to rebuilt the forks too.
 
  #4  
Old 03-05-2018 | 07:11 AM
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Have to agree with the Marine above. I have over 50,000 miles on mine and have rebuilt mine twice now. 1st time I went with the OEM specification, last time I went with Maxima Racing 20w. While it did reduce brake dive and I like the feeling better, it's still not good enough. Next time I rebuild it will be completely different. Probably Ohlins.
 
  #5  
Old 03-05-2018 | 07:19 AM
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I had changed my oil 3 times, always with 10 ish weight oil, works good for a while but after 20000 miles it’s like pudding..This time I put cartridges...no more changing the oil..
I would at least put better springs, new slider bushings and fresh oil.
 
  #6  
Old 03-05-2018 | 07:22 AM
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One thing is certain, if I'm going in the forks ... I'll always replace the bushings, seals, o-rings and oil.
 
  #7  
Old 03-05-2018 | 07:26 AM
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Think I'm running Motul 20 at the moment in mine. Anyhow, it's a small bit harsher and less plush, but only a very small bit. Dramatically less dive and pitching under braking.

Do understand that the ultimate amount of nose dive is actually a function of the fork springs. But the speed it gets there, and the porpoising past that point is a function of the fork oil.

 
  #8  
Old 03-05-2018 | 10:40 AM
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A member published a list some while ago of the actual viscosity of a long list of different fork oils, compared with the manufacturers' claimed viscosity. Put me off messing with fork oils for life! The only way to attempt 'tuning' damper-rod forks IMHO is to stick with a single brand of oil and try out the options. But that will simply delay doing something more profound and getting a proper solution! Might as well bite the bullet and do it now, along with fresh bushings.
 
  #9  
Old 03-05-2018 | 12:01 PM
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The bike is approaching 35K. Everything feels tight as a drum, but I'll definitely have a look at bushings and any wear parts while it's apart.
 
  #10  
Old 03-05-2018 | 12:25 PM
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I run 12.5 Lucas or bel Ray by mixing it. Run a extra ounce of oil, which I believe some call for that(12 1/2 inch's from the top of nut)like. More makes less brake dive. Only need about 10-15 psi in forks with this set up. I'm happy with the way it rides with my pro action shocks on rear.
 


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