Was hoping to get some advice on my never ending project. Last summer I bought a 96 Electra Glide with roughly 19k on it. I knew it had a few issues, but when I opened up a can all the worms came out. I've rebuilt the front forks as the seals were leaking, fixed wiring, adjusted the MM FI a couple times, fixed a cam case oil leak (upgrading to an EV 13 cam and better lifters in the process), fixed gauges, installed a programmer and autotune on it, put a 2-1 exhaust, adjust the clutch, and replaced the rear shocks. I took her out today and the engine is running like a top now. However, shifting is another story. Going into first through fifth I have no problem, but when coming back down it tries to find a couple half gears and neutral is almost impossible to find. I've adjusted the clutch five to six times and have tried everything from a full back turn to no turn and I still have the same problem. It doesn't seem as though the clutch is dragging, but something isn't quite right.

I've picked up a Baker DD6 that I was planning on putting in next winter, as it needs a rebuild and third gear replaced. However, if this old five speed is having troubles I may just want to go ahead and move up my schedule. I've been reading forums and I'm thinking it maybe a shifter pawl, but at 20k miles I don't really know what would be bad is this old tranny. Thanks for the advice. Trying to get all the kinks out prior to August to make a 1500 miles trip to Sturgis on this old girl.

 

Without being there and playing with it this is just a guess. I used to do a good bit of buying old bikes that had sat for a long time, fixing them up and selling them.

I'd have a case like that, and I'd have to take the clutch apart and sand and polish the steels and sand the friction surfaces a little. The steels would get a pattern etched in them or a little buildup and that's be grabby no matter how you tried to adjust it.

Does it pull any if you're sitting in gear, clutch pulled in and rev it? If it does even a tiny bit, I'd have the clutch apart, maybe change out the friction plates.

Might not be it , but it sounds like a clutch problem from here.

 

I'd go with clutch first too. 19k should be nothing on these boxes but if it has been badly adjusted in the past, or had an inexperienced owner overloading it, the plates could be worn.

In the old days, we used to scuff up the plates with some wet and dry paper laid on a sheet of glass (as a flat surface).

What oil has been in there, e.g. too thick?

If you are going DD6, I think you're going to have include re-gearing the primary at least, possibly primary and secondary depending on what pulleys are on there already.

 

I'm wondering is anyone lout there has had a similar problem you mine or might be able to give some insight. I own an 05' night train with a brand new BDL primary as of end of season last year. I got her outta the garage a month ago due to warm weather and have been riding ad much as possible for the last several wreaks with no incident. Today towards end of my ride and heading home at 70mph I smelt a burning rubber smell and knew something was up I pulled over and the primary belt is halfway off the front sprocket . Why would this have happened, alignment? Should it be covered by the shop who intalled it because i was really expecting it to last much longer, lol

 

Positive the primary oil level is right?? Too much oil would give symptoms as described. Sometimes it's the simple things that make us scratch our head.

 

 

With the OP'S bike seeing less than a thousand miles a year, I'd have to agree that I'd start with the clutch. In fact, to be certain, I would pull it apart, change the plates, and refill with Formula + or equivalent. There's just no telling how gunked up those plates are.

And, with a bike that has gotten so little exercise over the years, this might be the beginning of a number of restoration projects!

 

I can say that the bike don't pull any when in gear and the clutch pulled in and as far as fluid, I'm using the HD oil. Although the shifting wasn't great when I first bought the bike, neutral wasn't this difficult to find. I did drain the oil in the primary (prob first time it has been done) and put new fluid in it. After I did that plates stuck together to the point of selecting a gear would cause the bike to go or die. I finally just revved the bike and dropped it in gear. The plates broke free and from that point it was fine until yesterday. I do have an auto tensioner on the primary chain, just didn't really want to pull the clutch prior to next winter. Was planning on doing all that with the new tranny install. Which I was planning on overdriving the primary to a 28 tooth, which should drop me about 2 to 300 RPM in final gear.

 

So upshifting is fine, downshifting is the problem?

If that's really the case, I'd be looking in the areas that are different between the two. From the downshifting contact areas of the drum inside the gearbox to the downshifting motion range of the shifter pedal and linkage.

 

I've got a 98 road king with 90k on it that shifts like butter. As I was reading the responses in this thread, I was going to suggest you check your primary chain tension. I don't know anything about automatic tensioners but It sounds like yours could be too tight. I would also pull the clutch plates and fibers for a service. Clean, inspect, replace, and adjust. Lastly, I put 1 qt of Amsoil primary fluid in the primary. Your bike should take exactly the same amount. You don't have to go with Amsoil, that's just what I use. If this maintenance doesn't work, you might brace yourself for some transmission issues.

Keep us posted.

carl