I’ve owned my ‘17 Road King for 8 months, and the rear brake pedal always seemed uncomfortable, I finally compared it to my ‘12 TriGlide. No wonder...the RoadKing pedal arm is much shorter.

Are all the newer models now made for shirt guys, or just the RoadKings!

Anyhow, I order the Kurykrapen extended pedal. Hopefully that gets rid of my thigh cramps,

 

Extended brake pedal. Many of us have been swamping them out starting with the Rushmores. The extended pedal lowers the angle. I have had the Kurykrapen on both my 2016 and 2017 works well for me. Two different part numbers for one with and with out lowers.
Next swap out that clutch lever for an adjustable one it will feel like a new bike a real slow speeds.

 

Comparing the two, I don’t get why Harley made the change. I assume the TriGlide pedal is the same as on the Uktra. But, whose stupid idea was it to shorten it on my ‘17 RoadKing so it’s over the footboard. Whoever did that doesn’t spend much time in slow maneuvers.

The rear pedal on my ‘17 RoadKing:



The rear pedal on my ‘12 Ultra TriGlife:

 

One of the first things I did on my 16 FLHTK was replace the brake pedal with one from Softbrake. I didn't like the stock pedal on my 2000 UC either and replaced it with a Kury.

 

I don't know why they changed that either. It's flipping anoying. My 10 is in the right spot. Not sure why they would screw up on thing they had right. My 17 SG is is i need of some help. Might look into the softbrake.

 

I got the Kurykan from Amazon, and with Prime it arrived in 2 days. I installed it today, and here are my thoughts:

Pluses:
+ The Kurykan pedal seems to be of good quality. The chrome is quality. The pedal is built well, and at least as good as the OEM Harley one.
+ The pedal position is now where I think it should be, and matches my ‘12 Ultra.

Minuses:
- It was a PITA to install. Obviously the pedal is installed in the factory before the exhaust system. Why it’s a PITA: It’s really difficult to get to the cotter pin that holds the pin in place that connects the pedal to the piston rod. To get it out, I removed the right rider floor board, and rear support, and loosened the front one to swing it down. I still could not get any tool on the pin, so I had to bend the pin together with my fingers. To pull it out I made a hook out of a finishing nail.
- I can not get the OEM pad off the OEM pedal without destroying it. So maybe it’s time to upgrade the floorboards, pedal, and shifter pads. I’ll head to my dealer tomorrow to either buy a new pad or the hole set.
- I had a brain fart. After reinstalling the pedal, it didn’t look any different than the OEM one...that was because I actually re-installed the original one. I guess it gave me practice to put the new one on.

I watched a Utube video on how to replace the pedal, and that gave the tips to remove the master cylinder bolts, and the crash bar lower bolts. This helped get the pedal in place and align the holes to get the pin in place.

Again though...WTF did they change this??

 

I have the Kurlack sitting at home waiting to go on new bike, along with a bunch of other stuffy in black. Got it to maximise the available room with my Banana Boards. With the RGS the only difference is engine guard has to be removed. Yeah, I watch videos as well.

 

That is what I wanted to know. Looks like shopping time today to get one. I am with you though why in the hell did they change something nobody had an issue with?

 

Trick to it pad comes right off. Flat screw Drive

 

Squirt a little WD under it with a screwdriver to pull it off.