Deleted.
Please continue.

 

I'd say this dude could be right ^

2003 was the first year for left side roller bearings, in lieu of Timken tapered. The comp nut bottoms out on the crank shoulder (it isn't supposed to) and needs .030 taken off off or a a spacer installed; there's a TSB on it. Get on this ASAP, if the comp gets too loose it'll **** up the splines on the crankshaft. That, is expensive.

 

The belt may look good, but how tight is it?

 

Check shifter linkage coming out of trans to make sure it is not stripped not allowing it to go in gear.

 

With all the different suggestions above, there is no substitute for consulting someone who can see and touch your bike. Find a local indy to properly diagnose the problem for ya and also fix it.

 

I'd definitely start at the clutch pack.

1. After you pull your primary cover off you can squeeze the clutch lever in and out and observe your pressure plate to ensure that it's going in and out to engage /disengage the clutch pack.
2. When the pressure plate is engaged (pressure on the clutch pack) if you can get a finger on the edge of the very last friction plate well the pressure plate is engaged if you can wiggle it or has any type of play. The clutch won't engage at all and clutch pack is probably burnt out
3. Click the bike into third gear ( while the bike is on a Jack and the back tire can spin freely) with the primary cover off, hold the outside of your clutch basket with one hand and spend the back tire with the other. If the inner basket and outer basket/pressure plate spins freely from each other the problems in your clutch basket. If the back tire spins and the entire clutch basket dosent move. Then you may be looking at a stripped main belt drive sprocket or shaft. ( behind the primary housing is the sprocket and belt drive that goes from the transmission to the back tire)

I hope this helps ya

 

I'd definitely start at the clutch pack.

1. After you pull your primary cover off you can squeeze the clutch lever in and out and observe your pressure plate to ensure that it's going in and out to engage /disengage the clutch pack.
2. When the pressure plate is engaged (pressure on the clutch pack) if you can get a finger on the edge of the very last friction plate well the pressure plate is engaged if you can wiggle it or has any type of play. The clutch won't engage at all and clutch pack is probably burnt out
3. Click the bike into third gear ( while the bike is on a Jack and the back tire can spin freely) with the primary cover off, hold the outside of your clutch basket with one hand and spend the back tire with the other. If the inner basket and outer basket/pressure plate spins freely from each other the problems in your clutch basket. If the back tire spins and the entire clutch basket dosent move. Then you may be looking at a stripped main belt drive sprocket or shaft. ( behind the primary housing is the sprocket and belt drive that goes from the transmission to the back tire)

I hope this helps ya

 

The chances are that the tranny pulley cam loose and splines stripped. It could be the spines on the clutch hub but on the 5 speed TCs it's not so common. IT's not likely the comp as if it were the bike would not start.

 

If he is still working on this he is slower than I am.

 

Hey I only looked at the date on the previous post..