Just a note: All HD Screamin Eagle bikes come with Syn3 from the factory. Maybe its not a pure synthetic, but you get the point that its ok to change it at anytime you want to.

Jim
www.FastAire.com

 

I changed to Syn 3 at the 1,000 mile service.

Hack

 

Went with AMSOIL @ my 1,000 mile service[8D]

 

Had the dealer put HD syn in all 3 holes at the 1000 I just did my first oil change and put Mobil1 20/50 in the crank case and changed the tranny out to Bel Ray 85/140 all anyone had, but I will have to change everything again in the next week due to chewed up O rings and will hopefully find the Mobile I for the tranny.

I will say that the 5th gear whine is almost gone using the 85/140. I switched to the 85/140 from all of the GREAT information I have gotten from here, hell everyone on here is the reason I did my own oil change and bought the service manual, already made my money back.

Just keep reading this place is a gold mine.

 

Hi Guys
I use Mobil 1 full syn in the motor from 1000miles. now ( 5000miles )
Redline heavy in the trans ( less 4th gear wine )
ATF full syn in the primary ( big clutch improvement )
I've been using an Australian manufactured oil ( Bimrose ) in my high milage diesel van for 3 Years ( 160 klms ) Great product.
Bimrose sent me some 25w- 60w Dyno oil to try in my 2006 Ultra classic ( suppose to be the ants pants for noisey Tc88's )
Evo guys have been using for years.

 

Ultrasweet,

I think you are referring to the fact that in the "old" days, you wouldn't switch to a synthetic for so many thousand miles because synthetic was too slippery to allow the rings to seat properly. Sometimes it would just take a lot longer and in other cases they would never seat properly. As far as I know, these new engines are built with closer tolerances and/or fully break in much sooner. Can any engine builders out there shed some more light on this?

 

I switched at the 3K mark, cause the label on the Redline 20W50 said to wait till 3K, so at the 1K mark I put in dyno oil.

 

METRIC, that "J" term is just as bad as the "N" word people, bikes can switch as soon as they get the bike home. I switched to full synthetics in my Honda's at 600 miles and not one problem, leak, or clutch slip ever. My H-D's I did the same thing, my FatBoy I purchased used so as soon as I got it home I changed the oil with synthetic and my Ropad Glide I just swapped to AMSOIL at the 1000 mile check-up.

The old wives tale of switching before 5,000 miles will make all your seals, gaskets and mufflers leak..... is pure BS. Many vehicles come from the factory, including the Screaming Eagle engines, with synthetic. So switch

 

Hey Ultrasweet... you have a great bike, best there is. Not to throw water on what others have said, nor to sound like a know it all... but I would not switch before 5,000 on the motor. Here are my thoughts:
I have built small block Chevys and Mopars, incuding for the drag strip. The reason to stay with the convential oil is to allow the piston rings to "seat" to the cylinder walls. As you will remember, the cylinder walls are lubricated with the oil... and the synthetic oil is such a great product, but so "slick" and has so much less friction than does dino oil, that the piston rings are not able to seat properly.
You could switch on the transmission as soon as you want, but if it was my new bike, I would hold off till 5,000 on the motor. I have used syn for many years, and like Mobil 1, Red Line, Amzoil... currently have Red Line in the motor and transmission, but I use HD Forumla + in the primary... On the primary I like to not use synthetic... as on the clutch you do WANT friction.... IMO many of the clutch problems on bikes are the result of synthetic... Good luck and ride safe...

Hogback

 

Another OIL debate, this is gonna be fun...

I just went with everybody and use a quart of each, Amsoil, Redline, Synth3, Mobile1
I will say this, my boss is an Amsoil dealer sooooo... I use Amsoil...
Yea I'm a creature of convenience..

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