Painting Exhaust
#1
10-03-2017, 09:19 AM
Top Answer
10-03-2017, 11:38 PM
I have used two methods...my preferred method is with standard HVLP automotive equipment. The other method is with the old reliable...a rattle can.
Prep work is basically the same for both. Because of the size and shape of the material, pipes and mufflers, I generally use a right angle 1/4" shaft die grinder. They are available at Harbor Freight Tools, Home Depot, Lowes, wherever. I use either a medium or coarse grit Scotchbrite twist-lock abrasive disks...the medium is reddish color, the coarse is dark grey. When possible, I prefer the 3" size, the 2" size is better for smaller areas and corners.
I'll work every area that I want to paint thoroughly. Whether the surface is white metal or chrome, the process is the same. I've painted chrome many times using this procedure, and preparation is absolutely the key to a successful result. To make certain you've got everything, look at the surface you've sanded from different angles. For very small and hard to get areas, you can use a diamond tool on a Dremel tool.
You can also hand sand the work with sandpaper if you don't have power tools. It just takes longer. I'd start with 180 or 220 grit, end up with 320/360...no finer than that.
Next, I'd wipe the surfaces with acetone or lacquer thinner using new red rags. This should get any grease, oil, or silicone off the surface...although if you've ever sprayed silicone on or near the metal, you may never be able to get it off. You'll know if this happens if the paint 'fisheyes' when you spray it. Then use a standard tack rag on the surface to get rid if any stray dust and dirt that's left...DON'T rub hard with the tack rag, only very lightly...
If your choice is rattle can, I'd suggest VHT or equivalent high heat 'BBQ' paint. Don't use a conversion coating or self-etching primer. Generally these are not designed for high-heat areas. Just shoot the VHT right onto the metal. Usually, three or four coats will get the job done. If your exhaust is made up of heat shields that conceal tubes, you can usually just shoot the shields, and as such, you don't have to use the very high temperature rattle can paint. Why I mention this is because the last time I painted an exhaust system, I used VHT medium heat Krinkle paint...it's rated for something like 400-500 degree temperatures, whereas the high-heat stuff is rated for something like 800-1000 degrees. I really like the effect of the Krinkle paint on the heat shields...it somewhat matched the stock black Krinkle paint on the engine.
But if you have the equipment and the money to afford it, House of Kolor makes an excellent high heat black paint which handles, covers, and lasts very well. A quart of this will set you back almost a hundred bucks retail, and is available thru auto body supply houses that cater to the professional auto body trade. You might also get some on-line, I've never had to go thataway, but I REALLY like this stuff!!!
This method with some obvious differences also works quite well if you decide you want to paint your chrome, such as a blackout effect. If you have areas that are prone to abuse and wear, such as the docking hardware, handlebar levers, like that, I'd suggest going with black parts from the MoCo...they use a higher grade of powder coating than you might get from Joe the Powder Coater that's cheaper than anybody else and that's why you go to him instead of a higher priced shop. But for your run of the mill chrome that you decide should be some other color, my method of prepping has proved itself well up to the task over the last coupla three decades!
Told you it was detailed.
Prep work is basically the same for both. Because of the size and shape of the material, pipes and mufflers, I generally use a right angle 1/4" shaft die grinder. They are available at Harbor Freight Tools, Home Depot, Lowes, wherever. I use either a medium or coarse grit Scotchbrite twist-lock abrasive disks...the medium is reddish color, the coarse is dark grey. When possible, I prefer the 3" size, the 2" size is better for smaller areas and corners.
I'll work every area that I want to paint thoroughly. Whether the surface is white metal or chrome, the process is the same. I've painted chrome many times using this procedure, and preparation is absolutely the key to a successful result. To make certain you've got everything, look at the surface you've sanded from different angles. For very small and hard to get areas, you can use a diamond tool on a Dremel tool.
You can also hand sand the work with sandpaper if you don't have power tools. It just takes longer. I'd start with 180 or 220 grit, end up with 320/360...no finer than that.
Next, I'd wipe the surfaces with acetone or lacquer thinner using new red rags. This should get any grease, oil, or silicone off the surface...although if you've ever sprayed silicone on or near the metal, you may never be able to get it off. You'll know if this happens if the paint 'fisheyes' when you spray it. Then use a standard tack rag on the surface to get rid if any stray dust and dirt that's left...DON'T rub hard with the tack rag, only very lightly...
If your choice is rattle can, I'd suggest VHT or equivalent high heat 'BBQ' paint. Don't use a conversion coating or self-etching primer. Generally these are not designed for high-heat areas. Just shoot the VHT right onto the metal. Usually, three or four coats will get the job done. If your exhaust is made up of heat shields that conceal tubes, you can usually just shoot the shields, and as such, you don't have to use the very high temperature rattle can paint. Why I mention this is because the last time I painted an exhaust system, I used VHT medium heat Krinkle paint...it's rated for something like 400-500 degree temperatures, whereas the high-heat stuff is rated for something like 800-1000 degrees. I really like the effect of the Krinkle paint on the heat shields...it somewhat matched the stock black Krinkle paint on the engine.
But if you have the equipment and the money to afford it, House of Kolor makes an excellent high heat black paint which handles, covers, and lasts very well. A quart of this will set you back almost a hundred bucks retail, and is available thru auto body supply houses that cater to the professional auto body trade. You might also get some on-line, I've never had to go thataway, but I REALLY like this stuff!!!
This method with some obvious differences also works quite well if you decide you want to paint your chrome, such as a blackout effect. If you have areas that are prone to abuse and wear, such as the docking hardware, handlebar levers, like that, I'd suggest going with black parts from the MoCo...they use a higher grade of powder coating than you might get from Joe the Powder Coater that's cheaper than anybody else and that's why you go to him instead of a higher priced shop. But for your run of the mill chrome that you decide should be some other color, my method of prepping has proved itself well up to the task over the last coupla three decades!
Told you it was detailed.
#3
10-03-2017, 10:50 AM
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2013electralimited (10-06-2017)
#4
10-03-2017, 11:36 AM
I 'painted' my exhaust tips with black Plastikote about 1.5 years ago. I was thinking if I didn't like it, I could just peel it off and start over, but I've just kept it on. It's not a high-temp paint, but on the exhaust tips it's been fine.
I scuffed up the chrome on the tips with some fine sandpaper, then washed them very well with water and a good dose of Dawn to de-grease.
I need to do a touch-up on them, not because of a fault with the Plastikote, but because I scrapped them on a curb.
For the tubes, I'm sure high-temp paint would work fine.
I scuffed up the chrome on the tips with some fine sandpaper, then washed them very well with water and a good dose of Dawn to de-grease.
I need to do a touch-up on them, not because of a fault with the Plastikote, but because I scrapped them on a curb.
For the tubes, I'm sure high-temp paint would work fine.
The following users liked this post:
kylebryan (10-09-2017)
#5
10-03-2017, 09:07 PM
Originally Posted by kylebryan;166j98289
Can you just post your procedure? Thats kind of the point of this forum is to make the info available to everyone...
Last edited by Veekness; 10-03-2017 at 11:38 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Veekness:
UltraSteveUSAF (10-04-2017),
ybnorml (10-06-2017)
#6
10-03-2017, 10:43 PM
#7
10-03-2017, 11:38 PM
I have used two methods...my preferred method is with standard HVLP automotive equipment. The other method is with the old reliable...a rattle can.
Prep work is basically the same for both. Because of the size and shape of the material, pipes and mufflers, I generally use a right angle 1/4" shaft die grinder. They are available at Harbor Freight Tools, Home Depot, Lowes, wherever. I use either a medium or coarse grit Scotchbrite twist-lock abrasive disks...the medium is reddish color, the coarse is dark grey. When possible, I prefer the 3" size, the 2" size is better for smaller areas and corners.
I'll work every area that I want to paint thoroughly. Whether the surface is white metal or chrome, the process is the same. I've painted chrome many times using this procedure, and preparation is absolutely the key to a successful result. To make certain you've got everything, look at the surface you've sanded from different angles. For very small and hard to get areas, you can use a diamond tool on a Dremel tool.
You can also hand sand the work with sandpaper if you don't have power tools. It just takes longer. I'd start with 180 or 220 grit, end up with 320/360...no finer than that.
Next, I'd wipe the surfaces with acetone or lacquer thinner using new red rags. This should get any grease, oil, or silicone off the surface...although if you've ever sprayed silicone on or near the metal, you may never be able to get it off. You'll know if this happens if the paint 'fisheyes' when you spray it. Then use a standard tack rag on the surface to get rid if any stray dust and dirt that's left...DON'T rub hard with the tack rag, only very lightly...
If your choice is rattle can, I'd suggest VHT or equivalent high heat 'BBQ' paint. Don't use a conversion coating or self-etching primer. Generally these are not designed for high-heat areas. Just shoot the VHT right onto the metal. Usually, three or four coats will get the job done. If your exhaust is made up of heat shields that conceal tubes, you can usually just shoot the shields, and as such, you don't have to use the very high temperature rattle can paint. Why I mention this is because the last time I painted an exhaust system, I used VHT medium heat Krinkle paint...it's rated for something like 400-500 degree temperatures, whereas the high-heat stuff is rated for something like 800-1000 degrees. I really like the effect of the Krinkle paint on the heat shields...it somewhat matched the stock black Krinkle paint on the engine.
But if you have the equipment and the money to afford it, House of Kolor makes an excellent high heat black paint which handles, covers, and lasts very well. A quart of this will set you back almost a hundred bucks retail, and is available thru auto body supply houses that cater to the professional auto body trade. You might also get some on-line, I've never had to go thataway, but I REALLY like this stuff!!!
This method with some obvious differences also works quite well if you decide you want to paint your chrome, such as a blackout effect. If you have areas that are prone to abuse and wear, such as the docking hardware, handlebar levers, like that, I'd suggest going with black parts from the MoCo...they use a higher grade of powder coating than you might get from Joe the Powder Coater that's cheaper than anybody else and that's why you go to him instead of a higher priced shop. But for your run of the mill chrome that you decide should be some other color, my method of prepping has proved itself well up to the task over the last coupla three decades!
Told you it was detailed.
Prep work is basically the same for both. Because of the size and shape of the material, pipes and mufflers, I generally use a right angle 1/4" shaft die grinder. They are available at Harbor Freight Tools, Home Depot, Lowes, wherever. I use either a medium or coarse grit Scotchbrite twist-lock abrasive disks...the medium is reddish color, the coarse is dark grey. When possible, I prefer the 3" size, the 2" size is better for smaller areas and corners.
I'll work every area that I want to paint thoroughly. Whether the surface is white metal or chrome, the process is the same. I've painted chrome many times using this procedure, and preparation is absolutely the key to a successful result. To make certain you've got everything, look at the surface you've sanded from different angles. For very small and hard to get areas, you can use a diamond tool on a Dremel tool.
You can also hand sand the work with sandpaper if you don't have power tools. It just takes longer. I'd start with 180 or 220 grit, end up with 320/360...no finer than that.
Next, I'd wipe the surfaces with acetone or lacquer thinner using new red rags. This should get any grease, oil, or silicone off the surface...although if you've ever sprayed silicone on or near the metal, you may never be able to get it off. You'll know if this happens if the paint 'fisheyes' when you spray it. Then use a standard tack rag on the surface to get rid if any stray dust and dirt that's left...DON'T rub hard with the tack rag, only very lightly...
If your choice is rattle can, I'd suggest VHT or equivalent high heat 'BBQ' paint. Don't use a conversion coating or self-etching primer. Generally these are not designed for high-heat areas. Just shoot the VHT right onto the metal. Usually, three or four coats will get the job done. If your exhaust is made up of heat shields that conceal tubes, you can usually just shoot the shields, and as such, you don't have to use the very high temperature rattle can paint. Why I mention this is because the last time I painted an exhaust system, I used VHT medium heat Krinkle paint...it's rated for something like 400-500 degree temperatures, whereas the high-heat stuff is rated for something like 800-1000 degrees. I really like the effect of the Krinkle paint on the heat shields...it somewhat matched the stock black Krinkle paint on the engine.
But if you have the equipment and the money to afford it, House of Kolor makes an excellent high heat black paint which handles, covers, and lasts very well. A quart of this will set you back almost a hundred bucks retail, and is available thru auto body supply houses that cater to the professional auto body trade. You might also get some on-line, I've never had to go thataway, but I REALLY like this stuff!!!
This method with some obvious differences also works quite well if you decide you want to paint your chrome, such as a blackout effect. If you have areas that are prone to abuse and wear, such as the docking hardware, handlebar levers, like that, I'd suggest going with black parts from the MoCo...they use a higher grade of powder coating than you might get from Joe the Powder Coater that's cheaper than anybody else and that's why you go to him instead of a higher priced shop. But for your run of the mill chrome that you decide should be some other color, my method of prepping has proved itself well up to the task over the last coupla three decades!
Told you it was detailed.
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#8
10-04-2017, 08:21 AM
I sanded with 200'ish paper (orbital)
I washed with simple green, rinsed
I wiped with alcohol
I painted 3 coats of flame proof self etching primer (per directions)
I painted with 3 coats of flame proof black (per directions)
I baked in oven (per directions)
The final product is a flat black (lighter than I wanted but looks good). It feels hard as nails and most likely overkill for the Reinhardt chrome tips I painted.
I washed with simple green, rinsed
I wiped with alcohol
I painted 3 coats of flame proof self etching primer (per directions)
I painted with 3 coats of flame proof black (per directions)
I baked in oven (per directions)
The final product is a flat black (lighter than I wanted but looks good). It feels hard as nails and most likely overkill for the Reinhardt chrome tips I painted.
