Yup its me again. I have read elseshere about the shifter linkage at the tranny becomes loose on the splines on that arm wear. Not a lot of room in there and pulling the inner primary isn't too desirable. I have a 1/4 inch allen bolt currently on it and I have snugged it down but I'm afraid to reef on it as it may strip the threads or worse break either the allen bolt or the arm housing itself. I can see it move a good 3\16 or an inch before it catches. I have also read about an aftermarket two piece arm that can be had but its not cheap in any respect. And another guy said to just remove the allen and put in a grade 8 bold and torque it down big time. For those who have done that if any, does the bolt go all the way through with a nut on the other side or is the arm and threads strong enough to withstand a good twist to keep it tight? That little 3/16 of movement equates to quite a lot at the shifter pedal not to mention the rattling. I have enough noises that I don't need another.

Advice guys please

Randy

 

Mine was loose because the threads on the bolt wore around the shaft, HD has the bolts for like a $1.20,. That's what fixed mine, changed bolts, tight again

 

I replaced mine last winter. Ordered new bolts from Harley. They only are good for a few cycles....If you can get a grade 8 bolt and wrench in there , go for it.

 

Run the old bolt up & down couple times spraying with brake clean in between. The put a new bolt in with blue loctite. Torgue the **** out of it till u think it's going to break. Check to see if it's slipping, if is tighten more. If it breaks before u get it good just to worn out to fix that way. I caught mine early enough that it worked for me. Eventually I replaced it all with Baker stuff as rebuilt the whole trans.

 

This works ( a little bit of finesse may be in order ) ... I've done it several times on different scooters with great results.

 

I pulled the allen bolt out and put in a grade 5 bolt as that's all I had at the moment. Fine threaded that is. I run carb cleaner in the hole then put a little lithium grease on the bold and torqued it down. Seems pretty good now. Less than a 32 of an inch of play and I attribute that to the internals of the tranny. (in neutral) We will see how long it lasts. Next is bushings in the front for the pedal itself. I hope its not to big a deal. Cant wait for my service manual to come in. Was told at least another week.

randy

 

bushings are a piece of cake there are two in there a inner and outer just drive them out and drive the new ones in

 

If its a 6 speeds trans, the inner primary has an indentation so the arm can slide off. Been there, done that. 5 speeds need the primary case removed. If the arm is even a little worn, replace for only $20. Its made of a soft alloy to sacrifice itself if it becomes lose and not ruin the trans shaft. I used a grade 8 bolt, antifreeze with ss lockwasher and over tq'd the crap out of it.

 

Leon. is there supposed to be any play in the bushings at all. There is movement but slight. of course that compounds its self at the other end of the arm. An how do you get them out. the rear you can drive through, how do you get the front one out it will be pushed further in wont it?


randy

 

Draw a straight line across lever and shaft with a sharpie.
Then use a mirror to see if line breaks as lever is moved.
Video does nor show much since lever must move with shaft.
If needed:
If you have a 2012, a 6 speed then primary has a factory dent (relief) on back.
Dent/relief on back of primary allows for removal of the lever.
Slide lever across shaft and then tilt lever to remove without removal of primary.
Must remove bolt first.