Oh ok, I didn't realize you had to pull all that rocker assembly out to do the cam tensioner work, I thought it was all lower end stuff. Obviously I haven't looked closely at it yet, just perused a few videos awhile back. As well all know the service manual doesn't even recognize it was a wear item so that which is a bummer.

 

The only way to keep it only lower end work would be to cut the pushrods and replace with adjustables. But being that you're going to have the top opened up, it only makes sense to address that too at this time. You'll be pulling the rocker assemblies to install the Rockouts. At that point the pushrods come out the top.

 

This dude knows what he's talking about. To do all that on a TC88 and not look at the tensioners at 30K miles isn't a good idea.

 

Make sure you check that the rocker box covers are not warped either. If you don't you may put it all back together just to see them weep again. Place them on a piece of flat glass and check for wobble.

 

I agree it makes sense to take a look at the cam tensioners at the same time, 32k on the bike and I do plan on doing some longer trips where I'd like to not get stranded. Who knows maybe I'll get lucky and they're not too bad but I'm guessing more than likely there will be enough wear that I should go ahead and change them out while I'm there. In that case I'll just have to pause on the job and order the rest of the parts and tools I'll need.

Do that inner cam bearing really need to be replace at this point? Seems like not a lot of miles to be trashing bearings like that. It's not the cost that has me wondering, it's the cam and bearing removal process which seems like a process unto itself.

 

Sorry for another question while I learn my way through this.........if you remove the cam plate but leave the oil pump attached to it, do you still need to realign the oil pump when you reinstall the plate? Sorry if it's a bonehead question.

 

All you have to do to realign the pump is install the cam chest back in with the bolts threaded in place. With the trans in gear rotate the rear wheel (make sure sparkplugs are out of the heads) and the pump will align itself. Then you can tighten the bolts on down.
And yes, I'd upgrade to the Timken bearings while I was in there.

 

You'd be hating life if those OE bearings let go up the road...go the extra mile and replace 'em! And we're it me, I'd do the same with the lifters...

 

MorecowbellAz (Love the name), I'm glad you're asking all these questions as I'm looking to do the same in the near future on my 01 Road King, I was curious about the Oil pump as well.
Don't ya just love trying to go with a simple project that ends up with tons of "While you're in there ya may as well..."

I did a cam tensioner check just a bit ago they were worn a bit. I think they'll be ok for another 10k miles or so, however they'll be taken care of this winter. I'm at 28k miles.

 

If I get into cam and bearing removal that may be the point at which I just take the whole plate to a shop and tell them to do it. That kind of defeats my whole DIY thing which I generally prefer but I don't have a press of any kind. I've removed wheel bearings and tapped them back in by hand but that makes me nervous for the cam and bearings. I'll have to see what it costs for a shop to do it and think about my options.