My 2011 FLHTK has 100,000 miles on the original bearings. I do my own tire changes and check the bearings (by feel) each time the wheel is removed from the bike. To date all of the bearings are still tight and smooth.

 

Most of the time these issues come on so gradually you hardly notice. Once I had my first set of front wheel bearings changed I found it similar to your description. It was like a "whirring" sound from the front end, only noticeable once I replaced it and noticed the difference.

A bad wheel bearing should be noticeable when you get your bike up on a jack. Spin the wheel and it should be quiet and smooth, put your finger on the axle or spacer closest to the wheel, if it doesn't feel right take it to a dealer for further diagnosis.

Use a big screw driver holding your ear to the handle and the driver closest to the bearing for analyst. A good bearing is smooth and quiet, a bad one is very noticeably rough.

The brake pads will rub, if you still suspect the bearings, pull the callipers and spin the wheel, it should be virtually silent while spinning.

 

which tool is that specifically? thanks.

 

Most popular one here seems to be the ones like a Pit Posse, comes with parts for all three Harley axle sizes. There are a variety of this style in a wide range of prices; this one is near the low end, and what I have:


Mostly good reviews on that one, I didn't have any of the problems a few folks had. Some of the more expensive brands have a thrust bearing where the cheaper ones just have plain washers, but if you grease the threads and the washers, it reduces the torque needed to turn the nut, might be why a few folks broke their tool. My Pit Posse seems sturdy to me, used it a few times.

If you don't already know, Harley bearings need a little finesse to install correctly (and that could account for some early failures, shop mechanics in a hurry). With a single disk wheel, the disk side always goes in first, and the other should just touch the inner spacer, don't want a bind or play in that, could put a sideways pressure on the inner race that would wear out the ***** early.

 

2010 Ultra Limited with 50K miles and the original bearing front and back. It does give me something to worry about.

 

I change the bearings every 20K
Ive got 90K on my 2005 FLTR and 39K on my 14 FLHTK
Ive had 1 rear fail in the past so I decided it would be a regular maintenance item , I have had no failures since I made it a required maintenance item. It takes me about 10 minutes to swap out .

I bought this Jims tool

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/911-627

 

I to have made wheel bearing replacement a routine maintenance item.cheap easy fix for piece of mind.The jims wheel bearing tool is a good tool for sure but the pit boss tool is far cheaper.If i were using it every day the jims would be the way to go.Using the tool every couple of years the pitt boss is much more realistic investment.