Another Fuel Moto 107" Build Review
#1
08-09-2017, 10:13 AM
Another Fuel Moto 107" Build Review
What started as a simple Rocker Box gasket change on my '12 SG ended up as a FM 107" build. Right now I'm still in the break-in stage but I'll update once I get to the point that I can start beatin' on it again.
The Decision:
My initial attempt at fixing the leak failed due to slight warping of the rocker boxes. Knowing I had to tear everything back down to the heads again I figured now would be as good a time as any to do some motor upgrades. Since it was still prime riding season I settled for just doing the heads and save the big bore kit for another time. After a lot of research I decided to go with the Level B heads from Fuel Moto. I placed the order and started tearing the bike down again. Once I got the heads off I saw the massive amount of carbon buildup on my pistons and realized I'd probably have to pull them out to clean them up. I figured at that point I might as well just do the full build so I called up FM again and was blown away by their customer service. I talked with one of the techs for about 30 min before finally settling on the 107" kit with TW777s and 10:5 compression.
The Build:
Once I got the kit in I finished tearing everything down and started prepping for the install. The install videos that come with the kit were great. Between the videos, my service manual and the forums I had no issues getting all of my questions answered along the way. The actual install itself can be done in a weekend with simple hand tools. The kit includes all of the gaskets, o-rings and bearings you need. I ordered the cam bearing removal and installation tools from FM (about $170) but you should be able rent similar tools from Autozone. I would definitely recommend the install tool though, since it comes with a jig that bolts up to your cam chest and makes the install a piece of cake. One thing to note is that the kit did not come with cam tensioner shoes or the front cam c-clip (both of which I had to order at the dealership and ended up waiting a week for). Make sure you buy plenty of threadlocker, assembly lube and penetrating oil and have a foot and inch pound torque wrench on hand.
The Hard Parts:
The hardest parts of the install by far were getting the wrist pin clips in and setting the pistons into the jugs. I've done pin clips on car motors, but with the rods still in the bike it made for limited space and a big headache. As for the pistons, the rear cylinder wasn't too bad but the front is at a steeper angle so the piston kept wanting to fall forward causing it to go into the jug at an angle. I did most of the install alone so I'd image this would be much easier with another set of hands. I didn't have a ring compressor on hand that I could use in the limited space so I used their method with popsicle sticks. Yup... popsicle sticks. It actually worked a lot better than I thought! Again, probably a lot easier with a second set of hands.
Clutch:
To accommodate for the power increase I purchased an AIM variable pressure clutch from FM. The install was easy and the pull is light and smooth. It holds as well (if not better) than the Barnett heavy duty clutch spring but the clutch lever pulls as light as stock.
Initial Break-In:
Once everything was back together I did 8 heat cycles starting with 30 seconds and increasing each cycle by 30 seconds after that (30 seconds, 1 min, 1 min 30 sec, etc.) for a total of 18 min of run time with plenty of cooldown time in between. The first 50 miles have been kept under 3k rpms/65mph with variable speeds and lots of cool down time between rides. 50-100 miles will be under 3500 rpms/70mph. 100-500 will be under 4k rpms/75mph. 500-1000 will be normal riding without beating on it. Oil change will come at 100 miles, oil/filter change at 500 miles and then normal intervals after that (maybe another oil change at 1000. Depends on oil quality at 500).
On the Road:
Right now I'm 50 miles into the break-in. Lots of strange noises and smells but they are disappearing the more I ride. The lifters/pushrods still sound noisy but that may just be a result of the higher lift of the cams vs the s&s 570s that I was previously running. The bike is noticeably louder, although I attribute some of that to the new exhaust (V&H power duals with Bassani DNTs vs the dresser duals/eliminators I was using). I can already tell it's going to be tough to go easy on the bike until its broken in. So far I've only used about 1/4 to 1/3 of the throttle and I can tell it wants to let loose!
Final Thoughts:
1. The install is really very straighforward. If you're mechanically inclined this should be something you can do at home.
2. I used a jack, but the job would have been much easier with a table lift.
3. Make sure you plan ahead! Most of my time was spent waiting for parts because a.) I kept adding things to my build, and b.) I didn't know some things weren't included in the kit.
4. Do yourself a favor and order the cam tensioner shoes (20k miles on mine and the rear was worn out) and front cam c-clip before you start the build. Worst case is you have extras or have to return them. I'm assuming FM sells both so maybe ask what other install parts the tech recommends when you're ordering.
5. I reused the head studs but bought new bolts. I've heard people say to reuse both; some say replace both. I chose what I thought was best.
6. If you're doing the heads you're either going to need a special tool from HD or a modified socket to swap the auto compression releases over. If you send in your heads as a core swap they will do this for you. I chose to buy the heads up front and return the cores after to save time.
7. You will definitely need a clutch spring upgrade to handle the power. I was using the stock spring with an aftermarket clutch pack and with the 570 cams, intake and exhaust I was at the limit of what it could hold. Spring for the AIM clutch and you won't be disappointed.
8. Don't spend too much time researching break-in techniques. There are too many differing opinions out there and not everything you hear is going to be correct. Just take it easy, vary your speeds, and keep the heat buildup to a minimum. The rings should seat within 50 miles or so and everything else will break in over time.
9. FOR CHRISTS SAKE, DON'T BE AN DUMB F*CK LIKE ME AND WAIT UNTIL THE LAST MINUTE TO REQUEST A TUNE FROM FM!!! I was so wrapped up in the build that I forgot to put my request in and had to wait an extra few days to fire the bike until my tune came in.
I'll keep updating as I go. If you have questions about anything let me know. Don't hesitate to call FM if you're interested. They're great to deal with and incredibly knowledgeable. They can help you plan your build and tell you what parts you need to achieve your goals. Good luck with your builds and keep 'em right side up and your knees in the wind!
The Decision:
My initial attempt at fixing the leak failed due to slight warping of the rocker boxes. Knowing I had to tear everything back down to the heads again I figured now would be as good a time as any to do some motor upgrades. Since it was still prime riding season I settled for just doing the heads and save the big bore kit for another time. After a lot of research I decided to go with the Level B heads from Fuel Moto. I placed the order and started tearing the bike down again. Once I got the heads off I saw the massive amount of carbon buildup on my pistons and realized I'd probably have to pull them out to clean them up. I figured at that point I might as well just do the full build so I called up FM again and was blown away by their customer service. I talked with one of the techs for about 30 min before finally settling on the 107" kit with TW777s and 10:5 compression.
The Build:
Once I got the kit in I finished tearing everything down and started prepping for the install. The install videos that come with the kit were great. Between the videos, my service manual and the forums I had no issues getting all of my questions answered along the way. The actual install itself can be done in a weekend with simple hand tools. The kit includes all of the gaskets, o-rings and bearings you need. I ordered the cam bearing removal and installation tools from FM (about $170) but you should be able rent similar tools from Autozone. I would definitely recommend the install tool though, since it comes with a jig that bolts up to your cam chest and makes the install a piece of cake. One thing to note is that the kit did not come with cam tensioner shoes or the front cam c-clip (both of which I had to order at the dealership and ended up waiting a week for). Make sure you buy plenty of threadlocker, assembly lube and penetrating oil and have a foot and inch pound torque wrench on hand.
The Hard Parts:
The hardest parts of the install by far were getting the wrist pin clips in and setting the pistons into the jugs. I've done pin clips on car motors, but with the rods still in the bike it made for limited space and a big headache. As for the pistons, the rear cylinder wasn't too bad but the front is at a steeper angle so the piston kept wanting to fall forward causing it to go into the jug at an angle. I did most of the install alone so I'd image this would be much easier with another set of hands. I didn't have a ring compressor on hand that I could use in the limited space so I used their method with popsicle sticks. Yup... popsicle sticks. It actually worked a lot better than I thought! Again, probably a lot easier with a second set of hands.
Clutch:
To accommodate for the power increase I purchased an AIM variable pressure clutch from FM. The install was easy and the pull is light and smooth. It holds as well (if not better) than the Barnett heavy duty clutch spring but the clutch lever pulls as light as stock.
Initial Break-In:
Once everything was back together I did 8 heat cycles starting with 30 seconds and increasing each cycle by 30 seconds after that (30 seconds, 1 min, 1 min 30 sec, etc.) for a total of 18 min of run time with plenty of cooldown time in between. The first 50 miles have been kept under 3k rpms/65mph with variable speeds and lots of cool down time between rides. 50-100 miles will be under 3500 rpms/70mph. 100-500 will be under 4k rpms/75mph. 500-1000 will be normal riding without beating on it. Oil change will come at 100 miles, oil/filter change at 500 miles and then normal intervals after that (maybe another oil change at 1000. Depends on oil quality at 500).
On the Road:
Right now I'm 50 miles into the break-in. Lots of strange noises and smells but they are disappearing the more I ride. The lifters/pushrods still sound noisy but that may just be a result of the higher lift of the cams vs the s&s 570s that I was previously running. The bike is noticeably louder, although I attribute some of that to the new exhaust (V&H power duals with Bassani DNTs vs the dresser duals/eliminators I was using). I can already tell it's going to be tough to go easy on the bike until its broken in. So far I've only used about 1/4 to 1/3 of the throttle and I can tell it wants to let loose!
Final Thoughts:
1. The install is really very straighforward. If you're mechanically inclined this should be something you can do at home.
2. I used a jack, but the job would have been much easier with a table lift.
3. Make sure you plan ahead! Most of my time was spent waiting for parts because a.) I kept adding things to my build, and b.) I didn't know some things weren't included in the kit.
4. Do yourself a favor and order the cam tensioner shoes (20k miles on mine and the rear was worn out) and front cam c-clip before you start the build. Worst case is you have extras or have to return them. I'm assuming FM sells both so maybe ask what other install parts the tech recommends when you're ordering.
5. I reused the head studs but bought new bolts. I've heard people say to reuse both; some say replace both. I chose what I thought was best.
6. If you're doing the heads you're either going to need a special tool from HD or a modified socket to swap the auto compression releases over. If you send in your heads as a core swap they will do this for you. I chose to buy the heads up front and return the cores after to save time.
7. You will definitely need a clutch spring upgrade to handle the power. I was using the stock spring with an aftermarket clutch pack and with the 570 cams, intake and exhaust I was at the limit of what it could hold. Spring for the AIM clutch and you won't be disappointed.
8. Don't spend too much time researching break-in techniques. There are too many differing opinions out there and not everything you hear is going to be correct. Just take it easy, vary your speeds, and keep the heat buildup to a minimum. The rings should seat within 50 miles or so and everything else will break in over time.
9. FOR CHRISTS SAKE, DON'T BE AN DUMB F*CK LIKE ME AND WAIT UNTIL THE LAST MINUTE TO REQUEST A TUNE FROM FM!!! I was so wrapped up in the build that I forgot to put my request in and had to wait an extra few days to fire the bike until my tune came in.
I'll keep updating as I go. If you have questions about anything let me know. Don't hesitate to call FM if you're interested. They're great to deal with and incredibly knowledgeable. They can help you plan your build and tell you what parts you need to achieve your goals. Good luck with your builds and keep 'em right side up and your knees in the wind!
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#2
08-09-2017, 10:57 AM
Great write up. Thank you.
I did a Fuel Moto 98" kit on a 2006 Ultra. I would agree with everything you said about the instal of the 107" kit.
The wrist pins were also the hardest part for me. A pain but a little patience and you'll get them.
I started with the popsicle stick method when installing the jugs. I ended up compressing the rings with large tie wraps and cutting them off once the ring was in the cylinder. It worked pretty good but if I do a 107" on my 2012 Ultra I'm going to buy a ring compressor.
On the 98" kit I had to replace the cam support plate with a hydraulic plate so it came with new shoes. The valve train was loud with the 555 cams, even with a set of Rockouts installed. This winter I installed Zippers dual piston cam shoes with an Axtel oil bypass valve. That quieted the valve train down considerably. That bikes valve train has never been so quiet.
I also installed the Fuel Moto variable pressure clutch. I think the clutch pull feels great and it seems to handle the extra torque well.
My experiences with Fuel Moto have been top notch. I don't think you can go wrong buying a big bore kit from them.
I did a Fuel Moto 98" kit on a 2006 Ultra. I would agree with everything you said about the instal of the 107" kit.
The wrist pins were also the hardest part for me. A pain but a little patience and you'll get them.
I started with the popsicle stick method when installing the jugs. I ended up compressing the rings with large tie wraps and cutting them off once the ring was in the cylinder. It worked pretty good but if I do a 107" on my 2012 Ultra I'm going to buy a ring compressor.
On the 98" kit I had to replace the cam support plate with a hydraulic plate so it came with new shoes. The valve train was loud with the 555 cams, even with a set of Rockouts installed. This winter I installed Zippers dual piston cam shoes with an Axtel oil bypass valve. That quieted the valve train down considerably. That bikes valve train has never been so quiet.
I also installed the Fuel Moto variable pressure clutch. I think the clutch pull feels great and it seems to handle the extra torque well.
My experiences with Fuel Moto have been top notch. I don't think you can go wrong buying a big bore kit from them.
#4
08-09-2017, 11:24 AM
#6
08-09-2017, 12:20 PM
Good write up. FM has a great thing going and continues to elevate their offerings.
Final Thought #8 is interesting. If you feel rings will be seated at 50 miles, what else are you waiting 950 miles to break in?
You are correct there are a lot of opinions on break in. On my 103" motor (was a 96") I put together I heat cycled for about 2 minutes to make sure there were no leaks or odd noises, then I let it cool completely. Next fire up I let it idle until the rocker covers were warm, then took it out and did 10 runs in 3rd gear from 30-60mph. Full throttle from 30mph to 60 mph, then zero throttle until it got back to 30mph and repeat. I changed the oil at 50 miles, then again at 1000 at which time I switched from conventional to synthetic.
After 40k miles that motor still cranks at 200ccp and has 2% leak down. Last checked 4000 miles ago.
Zach
Final Thought #8 is interesting. If you feel rings will be seated at 50 miles, what else are you waiting 950 miles to break in?
You are correct there are a lot of opinions on break in. On my 103" motor (was a 96") I put together I heat cycled for about 2 minutes to make sure there were no leaks or odd noises, then I let it cool completely. Next fire up I let it idle until the rocker covers were warm, then took it out and did 10 runs in 3rd gear from 30-60mph. Full throttle from 30mph to 60 mph, then zero throttle until it got back to 30mph and repeat. I changed the oil at 50 miles, then again at 1000 at which time I switched from conventional to synthetic.
After 40k miles that motor still cranks at 200ccp and has 2% leak down. Last checked 4000 miles ago.
Zach
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#7
08-09-2017, 12:36 PM
Good write up. FM has a great thing going and continues to elevate their offerings.
Final Thought #8 is interesting. If you feel rings will be seated at 50 miles, what else are you waiting 950 miles to break in?
You are correct there are a lot of opinions on break in. On my 103" motor (was a 96") I put together I heat cycled for about 2 minutes to make sure there were no leaks or odd noises, then I let it cool completely. Next fire up I let it idle until the rocker covers were warm, then took it out and did 10 runs in 3rd gear from 30-60mph. Full throttle from 30mph to 60 mph, then zero throttle until it got back to 30mph and repeat. I changed the oil at 50 miles, then again at 1000 at which time I switched from conventional to synthetic.
After 40k miles that motor still cranks at 200ccp and has 2% leak down. Last checked 4000 miles ago.
Zach
Final Thought #8 is interesting. If you feel rings will be seated at 50 miles, what else are you waiting 950 miles to break in?
You are correct there are a lot of opinions on break in. On my 103" motor (was a 96") I put together I heat cycled for about 2 minutes to make sure there were no leaks or odd noises, then I let it cool completely. Next fire up I let it idle until the rocker covers were warm, then took it out and did 10 runs in 3rd gear from 30-60mph. Full throttle from 30mph to 60 mph, then zero throttle until it got back to 30mph and repeat. I changed the oil at 50 miles, then again at 1000 at which time I switched from conventional to synthetic.
After 40k miles that motor still cranks at 200ccp and has 2% leak down. Last checked 4000 miles ago.
Zach
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#8
08-09-2017, 01:39 PM
I broke in the 98" big bore early in the spring so it was cold out, temps in the 30s and 40s. I started it for about 30 seconds, shut it down and let it cool. The second start up I let it run about a minute and took it for a 25 mile ride in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear with varying speeds and engine braking. I changed oil and road it easy for another 100 miles and changed oil. Changed oil at 500 miles. Went to full synthetic at 1000 miles and never looked back.
At the 1st, 2nd and 3rd oil changes I could see less and less very tiny shinny metal particles in the waste oil. By the 4th (1000 mile) oil change I could see none. Right or wrong it runs great and never drips oil out of the external crankcase vent. I changed the vent so it doesn't go into the intake.
At the 1st, 2nd and 3rd oil changes I could see less and less very tiny shinny metal particles in the waste oil. By the 4th (1000 mile) oil change I could see none. Right or wrong it runs great and never drips oil out of the external crankcase vent. I changed the vent so it doesn't go into the intake.
#9
08-09-2017, 02:29 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
#10
08-09-2017, 02:39 PM
Heads - About $910 shipped to my door. Cost me about $40 to ship the core back. $20 to have Harley swap over my compression releases. I think it was about $80 for the head bolts.
Big Bore Kit - $1,825 shipped to my door (including the bearing tools). Spent $40 on the rear cam tensioner. Maybe another $20 on various other parts and supplies.
Clutch - $297 shipped.
I'm running a PCV so FM gave me a tune but I'll have it dynoed once I get done breaking it in (they said bring it in after 1000 miles). That'll be another $200 - $300 at least.
The fortunate part is that I can re-coup some of my money with the parts I took off the bike.
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