ORadtech: I saw this little gem at the end of the second line of the original post: "What do you think?"
That invites me to give an opinion on the subject, which I did. I think the OP MIGHT have saved himself some inconvenience and money if he had changed the Primary oil to something a bit lighter to see if that eliminated the clutch problem.

 

I am always intrigued when some can say "Still some limited slip in 5th" Just what does that mean. These clutches are huge. Seen unmeasurable wear at 50K. They run in oil and only need a little slip between gear change for smooth operation.

If it's slipping, hard throttle in the upper gear like 4 starting a power range of at least 3000 rpm should bust it loose if it's slipping.

Just what is some limited slip in 5th and how are you measuring it" For the primary, formula + is not the problem.

If it was not slipping before you took it in, you need to find another dealer. They are crooks. 50% of repair shop are.

 

I wasn't trying to dismiss your opinion, it's as valid as anyone else's. I apologize if it came across that way. And, heck, you may be right about the lighter fluid. I was just thinking how out of control those "which fluid" threads can get.

 

I had problems with my 2011 FLHTK with clutch slipping. If I roll into it in 5th gear, I could light the clutch up. Gave the clutch the proper adjustment, and left a little more free play in the handle. Now it is fine. I do notice that when I am pulling in 5th gear, the free play is almost none, where other gears with the same pull the handle has plenty of free play. This only happens in 5th gear. There has been other posts on this same thing, but no solutions.

 

I am thinking the FP has a hydraulic clutch.

The gear should not anything to do with cable play on a cable clutch since the passage way is the same for all gears. Cable play has a big difference in which lock the bars are in. It is necessary to set it on the tight side. If you play changes randomly, you small thrust bearing on the cam right side of the transmission is bad.

 

An old shade tree mc mechanic's solution to a slipping clutch was to replace the oil with ATF fluid. It squeezes out between the plates faster and allows for a better grip.

 

Yes I have done some mods. I have replaced the original cat with a fulsak header and put in TTS cams. It is getting a new clutch plates and basket. She will get proper maintenance as long as I own her. Not sure what caused it to fail.

 

I wasn't trying to start an "oil thread" but if I was in the OP's situation, I'd check the clutch adjustment and change the Primary oil to something like a 20w50 motorcycle oil. If the clutch performance didn't improve, I'd pull the clutch out and check the plates/rings for wear. I suspect that the MoCo recommends Formula+ for the sake of the Compensator.

 

Twice at one dealer and again at another. no reason to touch clutch adjustment yet 5th gear slip after leaving shop. My guess is that Harley techs are given a way to set clutch to introduce slip for a return visit of a new problem. easy fix back home, Formula + works fine, tried AYF works good until some miles clutch sticks too much causing stuttering, change oil all good again.

 

Chances are all you needed was a little stronger spring at a cost of around $30. I love the SE spring but some people say its too stiff. I had the same thing happen to my 2011 when I put cams in it, now running a 107 with heads and bigger cams with just a SE spring, stock clutch with 30k miles, and no slipping. Also, I have been told by basically every builder and shop I've ever talked to to NOT run synthetic in the primary.