Primary oil vs clutch disengagement
#1
Primary oil vs clutch disengagement
Ive done the search and found nothing but recall reading something months ago when it didn't pertain to me.
Something I don't like is the hard clack when engaging first regardless of engine speed. Whats happening is the clutch is dragging when fully disengaged. The engagement point is not close to the grip, plenty of movement prior to the clutch actually engaging and I wouldn't want it engaging any further out because it wouldn't be right. If I start the bike in first (clutch lever pulled in) the bike rocks because the clutch isn't fully disengaging like a dry clutch in a car would. So both symptoms are directly related with one root cause.
Im certain I read something about this very symptom and it had to do with the lubricant and the discs sticking together. Is this the case or is there an issue over time with these clutches where they just suck and need replacing? I read about someone running thicker fluid to reduce transmission noise but I would think thats the opposite of what I need. Im considering a thinner or synthetic primary oil.
Its a 2011 RK with 8000 miles on it.
Thanks Gentlemen.
Something I don't like is the hard clack when engaging first regardless of engine speed. Whats happening is the clutch is dragging when fully disengaged. The engagement point is not close to the grip, plenty of movement prior to the clutch actually engaging and I wouldn't want it engaging any further out because it wouldn't be right. If I start the bike in first (clutch lever pulled in) the bike rocks because the clutch isn't fully disengaging like a dry clutch in a car would. So both symptoms are directly related with one root cause.
Im certain I read something about this very symptom and it had to do with the lubricant and the discs sticking together. Is this the case or is there an issue over time with these clutches where they just suck and need replacing? I read about someone running thicker fluid to reduce transmission noise but I would think thats the opposite of what I need. Im considering a thinner or synthetic primary oil.
Its a 2011 RK with 8000 miles on it.
Thanks Gentlemen.
#2
My first response would be to take a look at your clutch adjustment. Performing that task should be done as prescribed in the service manual. This may help minimize the clunk in fist gear. Not likely to eliminate the noise completely. It's the nature of the beast.
A lot of different thoughts you'll get on what oil to use in the primary. Personally, I like a synthetic wet clutch specified type oil for motorcycles.
The cable clutch VS. hydraulic clutch design I've noticed cable when adjusted correctly seems a little less clunky into first than the hydraulic type.
A lot of different thoughts you'll get on what oil to use in the primary. Personally, I like a synthetic wet clutch specified type oil for motorcycles.
The cable clutch VS. hydraulic clutch design I've noticed cable when adjusted correctly seems a little less clunky into first than the hydraulic type.
#3
My first response would be to take a look at your clutch adjustment. Performing that task should be done as prescribed in the service manual. This may help minimize the clunk in fist gear. Not likely to eliminate the noise completely. It's the nature of the beast.
A lot of different thoughts you'll get on what oil to use in the primary. Personally, I like a synthetic wet clutch specified type oil for motorcycles.
The cable clutch VS. hydraulic clutch design I've noticed cable when adjusted correctly seems a little less clunky into first than the hydraulic type.
A lot of different thoughts you'll get on what oil to use in the primary. Personally, I like a synthetic wet clutch specified type oil for motorcycles.
The cable clutch VS. hydraulic clutch design I've noticed cable when adjusted correctly seems a little less clunky into first than the hydraulic type.
#4
I have heard the term "stiction" in regards to the clutch plates not separating all the way until the oil is slung out of the plates. On cold engines I tend to wait a little with clutch pulled in then engage first, another trick is too blip the throttle and do the shift as the rpm's drop, works on my 05. Do a clutch adjustment on a cold engine then give it a shot.
#5
I have heard the term "stiction" in regards to the clutch plates not separating all the way until the oil is slung out of the plates. On cold engines I tend to wait a little with clutch pulled in then engage first, another trick is too blip the throttle and do the shift as the rpm's drop, works on my 05. Do a clutch adjustment on a cold engine then give it a shot.
Stiction, thats the word thanks and I just did a search.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post