No need to empty anything unless you're taking this opportunity to flush the old fluid with new. If you flush and the bike is under warranty, or you're concerned with keeping a record, have a dealer or Indy with a tool capable of cycling the abs do so. Otherwise, a few stops hard enough to activate the abs will do the trick.

Yes, when you swap bleeder screws you must bleed the system.

No, you apply nothing to the Speed Bleeders threads, they come with sealant on them.

 

Just did my ABS brakes today. Real easy with a mityvac. First time, took about 2hrs. Thinking I'll do it every 6 months

 

Hey All,

I just read this thread with interest, as I'm going through this with my bike right now. I have a '13 Ultra Limited with a pre-paid service contract. The last time my bike was serviced, about a month ago, the dealer informed me that, upon inspection, my brake fluid had more than 4% water in it and needed to be flushed and replaced. This is the first time they have mentioned this, I'm assuming it is the lawsuit mentioned earlier that triggered their attention to the brake fluid.

Of course, this is not covered under the pre-paid maintenance plan, despite the fact that is falls under routine maintenance. Disappointing.

Today, my bike is in for service again. The dealer called me with a few issues, among them that my brake fluid has more than 4% water in it and should be flushed and replaced. This about a month and 5000 miles since they last replaced it. They explained that if the bike is kept in a humid place, or ridden in the rain a lot, this can happen. My bike has been kept in the same garage since 2013, and I rode briefly in rain last week.

Strange, no?

-Paul

 

Read the terms of your service contract. It should specify whether or not your scheduled service items are covered.

 

4% is a decent amount, were you able to ask the service mechanic if he flushed out his PPM meter with fresh brake fluid before calculating your fluid? You never know until you ask!

Had a mechanic once told me he uses same old bottle of hydraulic brake fluid just for the same reason purifying or prepping his PPM meter. I said that's strange as non-sealed or old brake fluid is naturally hydroscopic (it absorbs water)....hmmm! Afterwards, caught him testing his prepping fluid, he eventually threw it out! Wonder why?

B Bop

2012 FLHR (Road King) Ember Red Sunglo & Merlo
Cruise Control, ABS, Chrome Aluminum Profile Laced Spoke Tubeless Wheels, Security Package, Saddle Bag LED Lid Spoilers, and an array of accessories that enhances nostalgic appearance & blood curdling performance.

To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is research.

 

I would ask how are they keeping their fluid stored? I would ask are they putting good fluid in it to start with?

Here's the other interesting thing same fluid is in the hydraulic clutch.

I just did my brakes and clutch the fluid out of the clutch was a little bit gunky.

 

Good post.

 

It is not a good analogy to compare cars to MC's service intervals on brakes.

The mc reservoir is tiny in comparison and subjected to much more heat.

It is easy to do yourself and inexpensive. Not a good risk to ignore.

 

Strange, yes!


Doesn't take long.... Dealers will always find a way to exploit a maintenance issue/item...

Did they test front & rear? Both were 4% in that short of a period...? I wonder if they have yet to find a system that didn't have 4% water...

I'd be wiling to bet their tester is faulty or was incorrectly used... unless they failed to seal the master cylinder cap(s) (bad cap seal, warped cap, corroded edges, over torqued, etc) when they changed the fluid last time, or used bad/old fluid for the change (as someone suggested), I can't believe it would absorb that much moisture in that short of time, even ridden in the rain...!!


I'd go to Amazon.com, buy a tester (they are like $14), test it with a brand new, never used, tester and compare to their findings... I'd be shocked if their findings are correct... I'd then confront them with their BS readings...

If I am wrong, and the new tester shows over 4%... then you just spent $14 for a credibility test and your dealer passed....but I would then look for a reason the master cylinder cap(s) aren't sealing properly..... and if they do the work, I'd ask for a test of the new fluid they use...

Good luck..

 

after I flushed my ABS brakes it's like my rear brakes are "born again". feels real good again at parking lot speed.