Ok went into limp mode again today. Ok the bike did before someone says something. I have a 09 Street glide. It did it a couple times early last year. When I was going to clean the plug on the side of the throttle body. I broke the clip that holds the plug onto the throttle body. I bought a new plug and cleaned the pins good when I switched them over to the new plug. I did not put any grease in the plug. It ran fine the rest of the year. Then today the first time out on the bike. After about 30 minutes into the ride. I was passing some cars on a 4 lane road going up hill about 70 mph and it just lost power ( went into limp mode ) I was able to get to the side of the road. Turned it off then started it back up. Went into limp mode again. Turned it back off pushed on the plug on the throttle body a little fired it up and ran fine. We stopped at the local HD dealer and I checked the codes P2135 and P1511 ( same codes as last year). I cleared the codes then rode about an hour back home with no problems. Should I check something else? Or clean the plug again and put a little grease in it? I'm kinda at a loss. Luckily every time it has happened I could safely get to the side of the road. It could be a real dangers at times.

 

Any time the ECU senses a drop in voltage you'll get limp mode. The drop is caused by resistance in the connector contacts to the throttle body as the result of fretting corrosion. Cleaning the pins and also the sockets will help a lot. They're coated. So do not use abrasives to clean them. Use 90% alcohol. Use some of those tiny GUM dental brushes to clean out the sockets. Q-tips work well on the pins. There's also a product called DeoxIT which can be used to clean and enhance the connector contacts that works well. Some apply dielectric grease to the pins. Don't know if it helps or not. I use a product called Stabilant 22A which is an anti corrosion contact enhancer used for electronic devices. It's expensive but works great.

 

Hey there partner, i work on harleys, moreover, build custom harleys for customers. Ive seen your situation many times...simply put a small amount of die electric grease in that plug on the back of the throttle body, hold down on the plug release clip and plug-unplug that plug four or five times, releasing the clip the last time and just leave it plugged in. It should start working fine, if this doesnt fix your problem you probably have the throttle by wire sensor going bad or has already went bad..if it did fix it, it shouldve thrown a code, hense the check engine light comes on when u start, and goes out shortly after...the manual says 3 cycles of the key switch should make the engine light not come back on at start, but ive seen it take as many as 6 or 7...and then, even, theyre weird sometimes, a cycle being turning on the ignition switch until the fuel pump comes on and goes out, but ive seen it take 6 or 7 complete start and run for a few seconds cycles...either way, it should go out and stay out shortly....hope this helps...

 

Thanks Bingee and Rob Montgomery. I got some spray from work that is for cleaning electric connections. I thing this time I will use 90% alcohol. I will see if I can find theStabilant 22A to try. Its just real aggravating. Its not like I can try something take it for a ride to see if its fixed. It will go months before it does it again.
I might replace the throttle by wire sensor. I thought if it went bad it would just go out. Not work and just through the code to limp mode every now and them. If I replace it I'm going to go to 14'' twin peak bars. I put 10'' twin peaks on 2 years ago and from day one I wish I had went taller. hanks again.

 

I had the same thing happen on my 2010 ultra on the freeway. I finally cycled the ign switch handlebar first then the main took it to the dealer and they told me there was no such thing as "the limp mode" but we all know better. What I did was look my time and went through every connection I could find and sprayed them with electrical contact cleaner then apply dielectric grease and haven't had it happen again and that was 3 years ago

 

The dielectric should help, but if they haven’t been changed you should replace those damn pins.
(believe there was a service bulletin about it)
HD part number 72663-11 (Terminal,Socket, #18-20 AWG, Silver (pack of 10)

Then put it together with the dielectric grease.
.

 

I did not know about this. I can not remember if mine where silver or not. I will change them to the HD part number 72663-11.

 

I changed mine out about 5 years ago when I had same problems you are having. Hasn't gone into limp mode since.
Did it myself because I lost faith in the dealer doing electrical work.
(the front wheel ABS wire is too short in the harness and stretched and broke. They found it broke inside the harness and repaired it, but didn’t lengthen it: yup, broke again. So I repaired it myself and added about an inch and a half of wire, hasn’t broken since. Since, I do my own repairs on electrical wiring.)

If you are doing it yourself, just be careful.
They don’t give you a lot of wire to work with.
.

 

Called local HD dealer. The pins were $1 something a piece. So had the guy conect me to the service department. To see what the charge to change the pins. I don't have to correct crimping tool for that style pin. The guy was super nice and seemed he knew what he was talking about. He said they were the 5 or 6 pins in the plug on the throttle body then 2 under the seat. Anyone have any idea where the 2 under the seat are? They wanted an hour labor $95 to change the pins. Then he also suggested they run a diagnostic before they did anything to see if that was what the problem is. Total of $225 plus parts.

 

Maybe this will help ...