Ok guys, I know the rules about jump starting with a car running and expect some razzing, lol, so here goes.


I left my ignition switch on the other day like a noob. Everything was on but the radio. I have LED lights so the cooling fan on it was also running. I went out to leave a work site and nothing. Tried my portable Micro start and it didn't work due to IT wasn't charged enough. GRRRR Tried to start with just hooking up the battery cables from a co workers car, Nothing. Let it sit for a few minutes, Nothing. So no option other than start the car and jump it off. Had to let it sit for a minute due to the battery being so drained. Got it started. Rode it for about 45 minutes to give the battery a good charge. Got home and put it on my tender over night. Go out the next morning and it fires right up. BUT... Now my check engine light goes out then comes back on and stays on until the volt meter gets past 13. The meter, once started rises slower than it should. I haven't checked any codes yet.


It is holding 14 volts once it gets there and doesn't fluctuate at all. I haven't taken my battery in to get checked yet. That's the first thing I know I need to do. I'm hoping that it is the problem. If that isn't the problem, then my stupidity just got expensive.


I do my own maintenance but I am not an expert in electrical problems so that is why I am asking for some help.


Thanks

 

I had a problem with my voltage regulator. I'd charge the battery and the gauge would fluctuate from 11 or so to 14 volts....hold then drop back. the check engine light would come on and off too if i remember correctly. I'd make sure my handy-dandy battery pack is charged and ready to go and give the bike a few days and see if it sorts itself out. mine would act up a day or two then be ok for a month then act up again...then if finally $hit the bed. Good luck, electrical issues aint no fun....

 

For the cost of a new battery IMO I would get a new one and trash the one you drained. The battery is only so big and these motorcycle batteries do not like to be drained. I would maybe again IMO stop starting the bike till you get a new battery.

If it has been over three years since your last battery purchase for your bike. Then buy a new one anyway.

 

yeah but if he gets a new battery and its the regulator, its not going to charge back up. it will take a while before it drains completely but just replacing the battery might not fix it.

 

take the battery out and CHARGE it with a charger ( not a "tender")
a 3 to 6 amp charge rate over night should do

check your cable connections are clean and tight at both ends

take to autozone and load test

if it tests good, put it in and ride

if not there are a a billion battery threads- WScott tracks battery prices for us, he posts.
I used the yuasa last time for $132.
you can get a deka/ big crank for about $105

battery, VR, Stator any one bad component can destroy the other 2.

a bad $100 battery problem can turn into a $600 charging system

magic chargers or jumping may start the bike, the duff battery can load and kill your stator

mike

 

I agree with you on that. I IMO would still get a battery since he killed it. It without a doubt did not help the battery to drain it.
Then he can check his charging system.

Info from (J&P site)


1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.

2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).

3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.

4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).

AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.

Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead– Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads– Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
Ground– Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ∞
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ∞
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ∞
AC output 2 Ground ∞

 

1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.

Yes, I agree get a new battery. The Stator however can be tested without a fully charged and tested battery. I wouldn't replace the stator without also replacing the regulator. I believe I would test the stator before going to gather up the needed parts.

 

I hate to say this but I did the exact same thing. Left my bike on for two days then jumped it off. A few days later, check engine light on and off over and over. Stored code high voltage. So I figured I fried the voltage regulator and replaced it, all good. A few days later and the check engine light starts going on and off again, low voltage now. Figured I fried the stator so I took it to my indy to verify and repair. Sure enough, the stator had fried too. Sad thing is that when the stator fried, it took out the new voltage regulator too. $250 for the first regulator and then another $900 for regulator and stator and all is well again.

In all that, the only thing that survived was the battery. It's still tests good after all that.

Lesson learned. Don't jump it off if it is completely dead. A weak battery would probably be ok to jump off but a totally drained battery......take it out and put it on a charger. My indy told me it happens all the time when people jump off a completely dead battery.

Good luck.

 

Pull any trouble codes before doing anything. Then conduct any other tests. If your DTC's are like the ones on M&M bikes a ETL coming on at startup then going out indicates a stored code. There is usually not any issue currently with the bike, but something happened to cause a fault code to trigger.

 

First of all, THANKS to everyone for the great input.
Update on the scoot.
I was able to get in touch with my indy, the only person I will let touch my bike other than myself. I got the battery charged and tested. Pulled the codes. Only code relevant was P1003-contact relay open. Tested everything out and I GOT LUCKY!! No damage to anything. Battery, stator, and voltage regulator are all still good. Cleared the codes and no more check engine light. Learned a valuable lesson. If the battery is that dead and won't jump, take it home on the trailer. LOL