I had wanted to get on the forum and look for something like this. I rode my 06 RG this weekend for the first time, putting over 200 miles on Sat. I have the stage one with SE II's and download. Mine didn't stall but close. I got the "surge" when passing below 2000 RPM's and it "spit back", almost backfire I guess. I know it ain't tuned right but will try to get to 1,000 mile checkup before having it checked out. I had an 04 fuel injected Heritage with stage one and V & H pipes and didn't have any of this. There is a Power Commander dyno-tuning place close to the dealer-is that likely to correct the problem?

 

Have an 05 ultra with Stage one map, SE2 pipes, K&N filter. Just installed a power commander. What a difference!!! Solved the rough idle and surge, has more power and very smooth! Played with several downloads on my PC and it is like a different bike. I would strongly suggest the Power Commander, they also have the downloads for the 06 models as well as several different programs people have already written for several different bike, muffler, aircleaner, stage 1&2 map combinations.

You don't have to dyno your bike, Power Commander has already done all the work for you with hundreds of proven downloads!

Spend the $350 and an hour of your time and solve your poor performance, stalling problems.

Best money I have spent on my HD since I bought it!

Steve

 

Yes, if you hava power commander.

 

I agree. A map downloaded from the power commander website will probably make your bike run better, But each bike is different. Just because someone with the exact model with the exact pipes and filter and whatever other exact thing you might have has a perfect map, that doesn't mean it will be for your bike too. Too many different factors make the perfect map. But, you'll probably get a good enough map from there.

 

I never have had any issues with my '03 Ultra during the summer months here in So Cal. I know I've been in stop and go traffic with tems over 90+ degrees and no stalling. Not even once. I've been thinking about buying a new '06 Ultra but everything I've read abut Hot Idle and faulty Motor Mounts is enough to put me on the bench until '07's come out.

 

I rode my new RG again on Sunday in 85 degree weather. Believe it or not, she didn't stall once or even come close to stalling - I never even needed to give her throttle to keep her running. The bike actually ran the way I would expect a brand new bike to run!

I've got over 100 miles on the bike at this point. I'll be monitoring this closely as I continue to ride her around in our unseasonable heat. I'll let you know if the problem comes back and about my dealer's response.

 

I caught alot a c#ap for spendin the 750 to fix my bike for the staling problem when it was brand new, but Im glad I did. only had to take it in once, problem was solved, and I intended to do the same upgrade anyway. Saved alot of time and travel just gettin it fixed right the first time.I know it aint right to have to spend money on something thats brand new to make it right, but I blame the EPA for their restrictions on Ca. machines, not H.D. If it was up to H.D., they probbably would run alot better new than they do.

 

Absolutely! The challenge for HD is to manufacture a motorcycle that runs properly within the parameters of the new EPA regs. The current HD V-twin technology apparently struggles to accomplish that.

 

As I have mentioned earlier in the thread that once my 1K maintenance was performed all problems quit. I'm wondering if the cause maybe break-in related. Tight new engine, getting hot as breaking in and combination of "hot-idle" a tad to low. Just a thought, can't seem to stop thinking that a corrolation may exist?

 

Interesting topic, I'm not so sure that the heat cycle cool down is what is happening to your bikes.

Some thoughts on the IAC or Idle Air Control, this is what controls the idle rpm not the throttle body butterfly. It's on top of the throttle body and has the little cooling fins on it. This can be adjusted without a SERT or Power Commander at the dealer, if indeed the heat cycle cool down is not the problem.

The reason you can't adjust the idle with the butterfly like on a carb is the TPS or throttle position sensor will not be at the correct reading if the butterfly is moved without adjusting the ohms reading of the TPS to be at a fully closed position or wide open throttle which will not give you full throttle or fully closed throttle if incorrect, I guess what I'm getting at is don't pull the cover plug and move the butterfly to adjust the idle, this will cause futher problems, the idle is adjusted with the IAC only.

I think I would ask the dealer to up the idle rpm before I would buy the SERT or a PC if the bike is stock only, and no other mods have been made. You don't have to have a SERT to change the idle rpm.