2006 Ultra
I realize that this subject might be a bit vague, but wondered if anyone else noticed a difference in their dual front rotor warmth after riding. Having asked this, I must say that I recently replaced my left caliper that came with new pads while the right caliper pads yet have lots of life left. But, of course the left pads are new and right have maybe 1,000 miles on them. I did bleed the brake fluid, but I am not sure that there aren't a few bubbles somewhere in the system. It is tough to get all the air out of dual calipers. My brake lever seems a bit soft to me, yet it stops the cycle just fine with the lever pull about 3/4 of the way to the grip. I can live quite easily with a few air bubbles if this is the cause of what feels like a softer lever. I have not yet removed the right caliper to spray with brake cleaner. The left one, of course, is new.

Thanks for your ideas.

 

I'm not a brake guy but I cannot imagine changing only one side. Seems the stopping forces always would be less equal than typical (they'll never be identical) and that weirds me out. Bad torque forces on the hub? I'd do the right side right away.

 

With only 1k miles difference I certainly wouldn't worry. There won't be any "torque difference" on the wheel.
How much difference in temps are you talking here? Are you going by feel or an IR temp gun? How many miles on the new set?
I'd be far more concerned about the soft feel to the lever. You really need to complete the bleed on the brakes.
I've had great success with speed bleeders but there are several different ways to get a good bleed that are fare easier than the old "pump and hold" method.

 

Why did you replace a caliper???
At the least I would clean the older one and definitely bleed the brakes until you have a firm not full movement lever.

 

Possibly different brake pad material on the two calipers? Seems different materials would react with friction in different ways, regarding heat generation.. if they're identical pads then just forget I was ever here, lol.

 

Pads: HD OEM; new pads got about 5 miles on them total today. No torque difference sensed when braking--and I braked hard to experiment.
Warmth difference only by touch, nothing sophisticated.
I installed Speedbleeders because I wanted to flush the brake fluid with these--which is how I screwed up the threads in the OEM caliper nipple--which is why I had to get a new one.

My motorcycle has a total of 15,000 miles on it--and yes, it is a 2006. This is the first time the brakes have been bled and the fluid yet looked quite good, just honey brown rather than clear. Figured it was time to flush though. Probably should not have bothered. My screw-up cost me $200, but I got some interesting experience. If it were not for my compressor-operated MityVac, I doubt I would have ever refilled the new line by pumping the brake lever, especially using the Speedbleeder nipple.

Thanks all.

 

If you think you have air in the system try to get it out. Remove the calipers from the rotors and push the pistons back then bleed the brakes again. If you're not confident all the air is out maybe a trip to the shop is in order.

 

Think of all the Harleys that have only ONE front disc. If a torque difference made a difference, it would show up there. Chances are good that the warmer disc has the pads dragging slightly more than the other side. Disc brakes have no return springs so they drag slightly anyway. How free is the front wheel when spun by hand? If it stops quickly, your warm disc is probably the side that is responsible. If it seems reasonably free, take this as the first hint you may be contracting OCD and should take appropriate remedial steps.

 

Ah. It should be CDO. Alphabetical don't you know. And yes I'm a sufferer.

 

yup.....exactly