If you're replacing the head pipe might consider a different tuner - although that breaks warranty...although losing the cat or other emission controls will also technically.
14" bars will look good. Stock clutch and brake lines will reach. Just need wiring extensions.
Either seat should be fine.
Can't compare MS to HD hardware. HD is slick and works well.
thanks for taking the time to reply. I’m very excited about this bike.
my fatboy is a great bike, but consumed more oil than I would like, Harley says it’s normal. I’m going to break this road king in a little more aggressively hoping to seat the rings.
what is everyone’s thoughts on installing exhaust and tune before break in? Will the reduced back pressure be detrimental to ring seating in some way?
grips- thinking of going with the cvo style heated grips. Anyone have any good or bad feedback on those?
as far as windshield, Harley doesn’t make a dark tinted windshield. I bought a freedom shield for my fatboy and had the factory hardware powder coated. It was a pain putting back together. The MS brand seemed ready out of the box. Advice ?
thanks for taking the time to reply. I’m very excited about this bike.
my fatboy is a great bike, but consumed more oil than I would like, Harley says it’s normal. I’m going to break this road king in a little more aggressively hoping to seat the rings.
what is everyone’s thoughts on installing exhaust and tune before break in? Will the reduced back pressure be detrimental to ring seating in some way?
grips- thinking of going with the cvo style heated grips. Anyone have any good or bad feedback on those?
as far as windshield, Harley doesn’t make a dark tinted windshield. I bought a freedom shield for my fatboy and had the factory hardware powder coated. It was a pain putting back together. The MS brand seemed ready out of the box. Advice ?
I would break the bike in stock. They run great out of the box. Get to know it before you start modding it. Also, unless you're made of money, keep the warranty for the first few thousand miles. Cheap insurance and not ruining anything. I'm finally considering a cam, but I've had mine stock for over two years and really enjoyed it....which has NEVER been my story before, These bikes are just well sorted from the factory.
Many have said the best heated grips are the ones that look like the stock plain Jane rubber ones. Not sure if those are currently on the CVO. I have airflow, but it hasn't gotten cold enough to test out yet.
Haven't used a MS shield...I prefer the recurve's from Long Ride Shields...but yeah you gotta move the hardware. You can get the HD shield for RK with black hardware but it's expensive...especially if you're going to swap the shield
If you're replacing the head pipe might consider a different tuner - although that breaks warranty...although losing the cat or other emission controls will also technically.
14" bars will look good. Stock clutch and brake lines will reach. Just need wiring extensions.
Either seat should be fine.
Can't compare MS to HD hardware. HD is slick and works well.
when I click your link for the HD trim ring and check fit ent for 21 RKS, it states this item will not fit my bike. What’s the deal? Is it a glitch in the system?
Does anyone know the stud size and thread info. for the HD detachables windshield docking hardware part # 58221-04 ?? I have the Streetglide ( I think?) passing lights kit on my RKS so I need a longer stud to have both the passing light kit and the docking hardware.
Thanks for looking
IIRC, the thread size is 5/16-18. You should be able to just buy some "ready rod" in that size at a hardware store, cut four studs from it to the length you need, clean up the threads, and wind them into the forks by double nutting one end and using a 1/2 inch wrench. Easy peasy.
Pro tip from an amateur, before cutting, wind on a nut, make the cut, and back the nut off after filing the end of the stud to remove the burr from cutting. Do this at each end of the stud you cut. Backing the nut off cleans the thread, making it easier to put a nut back on later. You can also do this with a die nut if you have one in that size.
Edit to add: If you end up buying stainless threaded rod, apply some anti-galling compound to the threads before threading them into the forks, and a little dab of it into the acorn nut that will hold the light bar and docking bushings all together. Otherwise, the threads could seize up. Stainless steel hardware has a tendency to do that, even when threading stainless to stainless.
Thank you. A few people have said that you should go a size bigger than what you think I kind of figured that I just want to go a few inches higher and then picked the 14s, just in case. Doing it on my own is not an option... in Switzerland, you need to have a special paper drawn up for any bars not made in Europe and then have it approved by the DMV. Guess who they would approve this for.... that’s right: only the dealer or a custom shop. Considering that labor costs here very high, a custom shop would charge same if not more than the dealer, I’m getting it done by the dealer and they are extending all the lines because they would not re-route any of them - everything is done like factory. The good news is that there are like 5 dealers in the whole country and they do a decent job.
Originally Posted by beardedlaugh
I didn't get those, but I had the same problems you are talking about. I got these parts (KST Kustoms 14" Bars which needed the Wire Extension Harness) and it was relatively easy to replace on my own. Just remember to take a lot of pictures of the wiring so you know how to plug everything back in. I really like them, but I think if I was going to start from scratch, I'd do 16". I went with 14 because I could do it myself and save a lot of money on labor and extra parts. I really do like the 14" but I have a long torso and 16" would probably be even better. Either way, the 14" bars took care of the wrist, shoulder and back issues.
when I click your link for the HD trim ring and check fit ent for 21 RKS, it states this item will not fit my bike. What’s the deal? Is it a glitch in the system?
It could be because the 2021 received the Daymaker LED headlight. Maybe it changed the fitment or mounting somehow.
I saw on here where some were asking about passing lamps. ones from a standard road king work just fine. obviously you'll need to have them powder coated to match. I kept my original turn signals so they would match the rear without having to turn it into a major project.
Hi, did you de chrome them first before powder coating?
IIRC, the thread size is 5/16-18. You should be able to just buy some "ready rod" in that size at a hardware store, cut four studs from it to the length you need, clean up the threads, and wind them into the forks by double nutting one end and using a 1/2 inch wrench. Easy peasy.
Pro tip from an amateur, before cutting, wind on a nut, make the cut, and back the nut off after filing the end of the stud to remove the burr from cutting. Do this at each end of the stud you cut. Backing the nut off cleans the thread, making it easier to put a nut back on later. You can also do this with a die nut if you have one in that size.
Edit to add: If you end up buying stainless threaded rod, apply some anti-galling compound to the threads before threading them into the forks, and a little dab of it into the acorn nut that will hold the light bar and docking bushings all together. Otherwise, the threads could seize up. Stainless steel hardware has a tendency to do that, even when threading stainless to stainless.
Hi All,
We are all having to have various chrome parts powder coated black to match our RKS's (those of us that like to bolt stuff on!)
Given that powder coating doesn't like staying stuck on that shiny chrome stuff, are you guys de chroming your parts before powder coating yourselves and how? Or, are the powder coaters you use de chroming them as part of the service?
TIA
12-06-2021 | 08:17 PM
I kind of figured that I just want to go a few inches higher and then picked the 14s, just in case. Doing it on my own is not an option... 
in Switzerland, you need to have a special paper drawn up for any bars not made in Europe and then have it approved by the DMV. Guess who they would approve this for.... that’s right: only the dealer or a custom shop. Considering that labor costs here very high, a custom shop would charge same if not more than the dealer, I’m getting it done by the dealer and they are extending all the lines because they would not re-route any of them - everything is done like factory. The good news is that there are like 5 dealers in the whole country and they do a decent job. 
) 