Hey guys, does anyone know if a Fullsac Sport headpipe will give you less exhaust reversion and less crosstalk between the O2 sensors than a decated factory headpipe? I'm having trouble autotuning my '15 Street Glide, no matter what maps I try on the FP3 fuelpack. I'm running the Fullsac headers, Cobra 3"Racepro slipons and Arlen Ness stage 1 air filter. Bike runs good once it's going, sounds and feels like s**t when it's in traffic or just idling. Running temp is around 260-270 when riding but, jumps to about 300+ in slow traffic and red lights. I've made the fuel/air mixture a little richer, 13.9 to 1 across most of the table on several of the maps I've tried from V&H. Whether or not I autotune seems to make no difference on the idle or the temperature. Are my expectations just set too high for this type of engine and bike? I thought a well designed aftermarket headpipe and a fuel tuner would reduce my temps and make my bike run smoother. I think it ran better when it was stock.

 

If it was me, I'd give Steve a quick phone call.
I'm guessing he'd say to try a different muffler, probably be best to go with one of his offerings like a CVO body, ( would look a lot better on a touring bike than a 3" muffler imho), and his 1.75" or max 2" cores and then give V&H a call back and they would recommend a good starting map to begin the auto tune process with.

 

While in auto tune it will run a little off, did you save, or flsh the tune after being in auto tune, if so, i would call them, they can help figure it out, Great C. S.

 

When you say 3" Cobra mufflers, is that the outside diameter of the muffler or the baffle size??
I run (2011 RK) an Fp3 canned map with decatted head pipe, Naked V02 stage 1 a/f and RCX 4" cans. It tunes fine in auto tune and with the canned map. Something is wrong, mufflers(lack of back presure) vacumn leak, down load incomplete. Many tuning TC's with Fullsac sport pipes with good results. A 2" baffle will work the best

 

Hi tpcowfish, Yeah, I've had this set up for over a year and have become quite familiar with how the autotune feature works. I usually autotune for a few hundred miles on a few different rides and I flash the map when I have populated a decent amount of cells(green). I ride around for a while and see if there's an improvement over the previous map. If not, I delete the map and start autotuning another V&H canned map. Trouble is, I haven't found that perfect map yet. I just don't like the way the bike idles and how high the head temps go when riding slow and in stop and go traffic. Like I said, maybe my expectations are too high.
To answer checkers question: 3" is the diameter of the pipe, they have 2" constant velocity cores, should be enough for back pressure, I'd imagine.

 

You may want to give V&H a call. They can look at what you got, make changes to the map to get you closer to where you need to be. My experience with V&H customer service has been very good.

 

With a sport pipe and 2" baffles and Stage 1 A/F that should be a good combo and tuneable with the Fp3. Have you tried the canned map, "power duals and monster rounds" and ride it through several on/off key cycles. Ant chance a vacuum leak? If you are running any spark plug other the OEM, remove them before doing anything else. Then retune with a canned map.

 

I have a sportpipe with big louies and 2.5 baffles and also a big sicker. V&H told me to load the power duals with twin slash slip-on. It runs fine but has a little decel pop which is to be expected

 

Its an air cooled motor. Stop and go traffic has little to no air movement. No surprise the temps go up when sitting still with the bike running. The idle concern sounds like EITMS is kicking on- you can turn that off with your right hand.

 

Well, Maybe try calling them with your phone, and app loaded by your bike, with good wi fi service, They can read your app right over the phone with you, and see it, About all i can suggest, if all else has failed, good luck,