How to get front brake master cylinder level?
#1
How to get front brake master cylinder level?
2006 Ultra
My service manual says to flush brake fluid place the cycle upright--that I did on my lift. Then, I pull the left handle grip all the way inward and tie it. the master cylinder is still canted a bit with the high side of the reservoir toward the rider and the low side toward the front. Left to right is pretty even though. I tried doing the same thing on the jiffy stand and it was no different. I sure don't want the DOT 4 slopping out when I remove the reservoir cover. What is your best advice about this please?
Every Ultra I ever looked at has the master cylinder at the identical slight back to front angle. Should I just go ahead and remove the cover the way the cycle sets now? Given that I have not checked the brake fluid level in five years, I suppose it was not over-filled to begin with.
Thank you for any advice you might offer.
My service manual says to flush brake fluid place the cycle upright--that I did on my lift. Then, I pull the left handle grip all the way inward and tie it. the master cylinder is still canted a bit with the high side of the reservoir toward the rider and the low side toward the front. Left to right is pretty even though. I tried doing the same thing on the jiffy stand and it was no different. I sure don't want the DOT 4 slopping out when I remove the reservoir cover. What is your best advice about this please?
Every Ultra I ever looked at has the master cylinder at the identical slight back to front angle. Should I just go ahead and remove the cover the way the cycle sets now? Given that I have not checked the brake fluid level in five years, I suppose it was not over-filled to begin with.
Thank you for any advice you might offer.
#2
Get it as level as possible, perfect is not necessary. Cover everything in plastic, I used lawn trash bags, and cover that with old towels. Get a turkey baster to suction out the master cylinder the top up with new and flush away.
On every MC I've ever ridden the brakes are on the right, unless you're looking at it from the front.
On every MC I've ever ridden the brakes are on the right, unless you're looking at it from the front.
#3
Thank you. I figure mine is situated the same as tens of thousands of other Harley reservoirs. I have a syringe to suck out some fluid after I remove the cover. I understand how to do the rest of it. I trust the speedbleeders I installed yesterday are going to make this an easy job--as long as when I replace the covers they do not leak. Word is some guys have trouble getting the cover back on without subsequent leakage.
NOTE: I saw on the YouTube at Delboy's Garage that he says to definitely wipe down the gasket and inside the cover before replacing it to prevent such leakage. I never heard anyone mention this before but it makes perfect sense. After all, there are tiny air intake orifices in the cover and any fluid above the gasket will naturally exist through those holes. Not a good thing with DOT 4.
NOTE: I saw on the YouTube at Delboy's Garage that he says to definitely wipe down the gasket and inside the cover before replacing it to prevent such leakage. I never heard anyone mention this before but it makes perfect sense. After all, there are tiny air intake orifices in the cover and any fluid above the gasket will naturally exist through those holes. Not a good thing with DOT 4.
#4
Someone else just asked this question not too long ago. Just loosen the bolts holding the master cyclinder clamp and switch housing to the bar and just rotate it slightly till it's level. Snug the bolts up, do the work, then rotate everything back to a comfortable spot. If you're taking on a brake job, adjusting your handle controls should be a breeze.
#5
I asked the former question, but to do what you say looks to me like that would require removing the banjo bolt holding the steel hydraulic line--that would in turn release brake fluid. I am just going to settle for nearly level and see what happens. Works for everyone else so it should work for me too.
Thank you though.
Thank you though.
#6
I asked the former question, but to do what you say looks to me like that would require removing the banjo bolt holding the steel hydraulic line--that would in turn release brake fluid. I am just going to settle for nearly level and see what happens. Works for everyone else so it should work for me too.
Thank you though.
Thank you though.
#7
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#8
Also, since you are the one who asked this question before, what's the point of starting yet another thread on this non-issue??
Click here to read advise already given to you.
Click here to read advise already given to you.
#9
#10
Thanks. I do not notice any difference one way or the other. I have compared each position--on the jiffy stand or on the lift--each with left grip pulled in. Kind of odd since others notice a difference.
It will work fine the way I am doing it. I tend to find issues where none likely exist.
It will work fine the way I am doing it. I tend to find issues where none likely exist.