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Can you identify this fork/suspension?

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  #31  
Old 02-18-2017 | 06:35 PM
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I finally just removed the fender and tire. The forks shoved straight up into place and I inserted the top bolts. Then I lowered the bike to insert the axle in the front wheel. I spent all day fighting to get the forks to come up and then spent several hours going around town trying to find some longer 16x1.5mm bolts so that I could use them to reach down and work the forks up. Nobody had them. It only took about 20 minutes to remove the fender and tire. Next time I'll know the smart move. In answer to your question, the top nut was still several inches below the triple tree and wouldn't rise any further so even though there was no rust or dirt in the triple tree, that wasn't a factor. The straps brought the forks up several inches when I turned them. Without the straps applying upward pull, they wouldn't go any further.

Unfortunately, I now see that I don't want to drop it the entire 2" because of clearance issues. I'll take everything back off tomorrow and insert a 1" pvc extension in the top of the springs.
 
  #32  
Old 02-18-2017 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Fine09
Finally got the tubes to drop. What I found by accident was working both of them a little bit at the time and then going to the other one. After swapping aback and forth a couple of times, they both dropped several inches. I was then able to get a prybar between them and the bottom of the triple tree and work them down several more inches. Wasn't too hard once they started moving. I used a 13/16" open end wrench to remove the top bolt and expose the springs. I knew the top bolt was under pressure and took it easy but both sides still slammed my hand into the underside of the triple tree (ouch!). Swapped out the springs easy. Now the forks don't want to go back up. Look at the attached photos. I tried using a ratcheting strap and wrapped it over the handlebars and hooked it low under the highway bar. It is putting a lot of upward pressure on the fork but it isn't budging. Not sure where to go from here but I'll keep trying.
How can that ratcheting strap possibly be pulling the fork tube straight up?

EDIT: Disregard. I was typing as you were posting. Glad you finally worked it out.
 

Last edited by -deuced-; 02-18-2017 at 07:01 PM.
  #33  
Old 02-18-2017 | 06:48 PM
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Max Headflow
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From: poway
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Originally Posted by Fine09
I finally just removed the fender and tire. The forks shoved straight up into place and I inserted the top bolts. Then I lowered the bike to insert the axle in the front wheel. I spent all day fighting to get the forks to come up and then spent several hours going around town trying to find some longer 16x1.5mm bolts so that I could use them to reach down and work the forks up. Nobody had them. It only took about 20 minutes to remove the fender and tire. Next time I'll know the smart move. In answer to your question, the top nut was still several inches below the triple tree and wouldn't rise any further so even though there was no rust or dirt in the triple tree, that wasn't a factor. The straps brought the forks up several inches when I turned them. Without the straps applying upward pull, they wouldn't go any further.

Unfortunately, I now see that I don't want to drop it the entire 2" because of clearance issues. I'll take everything back off tomorrow and insert a 1" pvc extension in the top of the springs.
Yep.. Not worth trying to skip disassembly.. Again while you are at it, change the fork oil. Any good 20W for oil will do.. Spectro, Maxima. Belray.
 
  #34  
Old 02-18-2017 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Fine09

Unfortunately, I now see that I don't want to drop it the entire 2" because of clearance issues. I'll take everything back off tomorrow and insert a 1" pvc extension in the top of the springs.
2" is too much and even with 1" be careful the first time you ride to make sure you don't hit the fender when it dives on a stop.
Gunny I know you have learned many things from this and one of them is probably something you have told countless 18 - 20 year olds " don't take the easy way out - do it right".

In the long run it's easier to take the wheel, calipers, fender off, and completely remove the forks, do the job, and reinstall it all.

Welcome Home.
 
  #35  
Old 02-18-2017 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TSheff
2" is too much and even with 1" be careful the first time you ride to make sure you don't hit the fender when it dives on a stop.
Gunny I know you have learned many things from this and one of them is probably something you have told countless 18 - 20 year olds " don't take the easy way out - do it right".

In the long run it's easier to take the wheel, calipers, fender off, and completely remove the forks, do the job, and reinstall it all.

Welcome Home.
Thanks. This is a perfect example of why I'm doing this during the winter. Gives me plenty of time for all of the unexpected delays. If you're going to work on your own bike, you've got to develop patience and control your anger. I've been getting a lot of practice at that lately.
 
  #36  
Old 02-19-2017 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Fine09
Thanks. This is a perfect example of why I'm doing this during the winter. Gives me plenty of time for all of the unexpected delays. If you're going to work on your own bike, you've got to develop patience and control your anger. I've been getting a lot of practice at that lately.
Commend you for doing it yourself. Always have a factory H-D Service Manual, proper tools, and patience. The more you do yourself the better you will understand your bike. For me that's half the experience.
 
  #37  
Old 02-19-2017 | 09:47 AM
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Sometimes you just gotta do it "your way". And when u do you learn that there is usually a "better way". I know! Done it in that order many times!!
 
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