Help with the dreaded P0113 code
#1
Help with the dreaded P0113 code
I have a 2004 Ultra Classic / EFI (FLHTCUI) with many upgrades. Purchased new full bore exhaust 3 months ago and shortly after putting them on, started getting intermittent P0113. Had to have new throttle body installed in Jan 16. Bought a new IAT sensor and installed it. No help. Figured it was time to go ahead and upgrade to PCV (no OS2 sensors). Took to local shop and told them I just replaced the IAT sensor and that I would like them to find the problem for the p0113 code, add PCV and dyno it. Bike came out of shop running and sounding incredible. They said they changed IAT sensor (which I had already done) added the PCV and dynoed. Ride for 400 miles, no problems. Sunday, out for a ride and at a stop light, the RPM's stumbled down to 700 or so, engine light came on and when I revved it at green ki thing while in idle, check engine light went away. Of course it stored the code. The only time I'm getting the code is when the bike is warmed up and I'm sitting at a stop/light. Bike stumbled and acts liken it wants to die, the. The idle will pick back up under it's own free will. I do have the HD OEM fan, as this is a "Shriners" model, nut I can't tell that the fan is the problem. It only kicks on around 80 ambient temp. I've gone back over the IAT to make it was securely attached and I can't find any other problems. Tired of throwing money at the stealership. The bike has 40,000 miles (looks showroom new. Has screaming eagle cam plate (hydraulic shoe tensioners, k / n air filer (I've cleaned to many times to see if that what was causing the code. Have checked every where possible to ensure all connections are good. Like I said, the only time tir throws the code is after the bike warms up and I come to stop. Idle drops and "kaboom"....DTC p0113. ANY feedback would be grateful. Thank you? I
Last edited by Traveller501; 02-10-2017 at 09:15 PM.
#2
All those sensors tie to the frame and run under the tank. It may be possible that a broken wire, within the insulation, is causing an intermittent failure. I had a wire snap within the insulation causing a fuel injector to stop working. It seems that engine vibration, coupled with the fact that the wires are tied stationay, causes wire conductor failure occasionaly.
#3
Thank you for the response. Guess it's time to break out the sicssors, take off the tank and start cutting heat wrap. It's odd because the bike only does it she the engine is hot and idling. There's no backfiring etc during accel or crusing. The one thing my mechanic didn't do when they put the PCV on was recharge my airline filter. I run an open K/N and it's as silver as a new nickel. I asked him about it and he said as long ias I wasn't riding in dusty conditions, the filter shouldn't be charged (oiled). Since it was not charged when I picked the bike up from the shop, it may have take. 300-400 miles of dirt accumulating before it was so dirty it allowed particles in. I would think one would want it charged ALL of the time. Could also explain the drop in idle. Starving for air. Your thoughts?
#4
When I went through that dreaded p0113 code it ended up being the connector on the wire harness that had fretted connections. You may have to replace that as you have replaced the sensor.
As for the K&N I have always run mine charged on the last 5 bikes that I have had. I think the oil traps the dust. They are super easy to clean and recharge. I do it when I give the bike a good cleaning/waxing.
As for the K&N I have always run mine charged on the last 5 bikes that I have had. I think the oil traps the dust. They are super easy to clean and recharge. I do it when I give the bike a good cleaning/waxing.
#5
Like todd-67 said, look for fretting wires on the connector. Make sure they are connected well and are clean. Put some dielectric grease on the them connectors before putting them back together.
There was a problem with fretting on the connector to the throttle control actuator that was heavily discussed here. My indy soldered mine and I didn't even ask him too. He just knew it was an issue and mine were starting to fret. You might look there too. It wouldn't throw the same code but wouldn't hurt to check it while you are right there.
I'm a big fan of dielectric grease to keep terminal connections clean. Also makes it easier to take them apart later if needed. Especially in a the spark plug boot.
Good luck finding the problem.
There was a problem with fretting on the connector to the throttle control actuator that was heavily discussed here. My indy soldered mine and I didn't even ask him too. He just knew it was an issue and mine were starting to fret. You might look there too. It wouldn't throw the same code but wouldn't hurt to check it while you are right there.
I'm a big fan of dielectric grease to keep terminal connections clean. Also makes it easier to take them apart later if needed. Especially in a the spark plug boot.
Good luck finding the problem.
#6
Look in the throttle bore for a little orifice near the inside top. That would be the IAC metering device. Clean with some throttle bore cleaner, cycle the ignition on/off afew times then clean again. The oil vapors coming from the heads to throttle bore tend to foul the little orifice and the metering device inside. That controls the idle when off throttle. Good luck.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Thanks for all the feedback. I'm going to start with all of the suggestions you have offered and see if that does the trick. I am also going to log in to the PCV to see if anything looks abnormal. Of all codes that I've ever had, this is by far the hardest because it he problem could be anywhere and the stealership would charge me an arm and both legs (then they could sell me a trike)!!!!
#9
If you truly have a K&N filter on your bike and run it without oil; you're pulling a lot of dirt into the engine. If you have a "mechanic" who tells you that's ok, you don't really have a mechanic.
As far as your code. Go pull the plug off the throttle body, clean it with contact cleaner (both ends) and put dielectric grease on it. Plug it back in, clear the historical DTC and call it good.
As far as your code. Go pull the plug off the throttle body, clean it with contact cleaner (both ends) and put dielectric grease on it. Plug it back in, clear the historical DTC and call it good.
Last edited by Campy Roadie; 02-11-2017 at 09:10 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Inspector 12
Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel Injection
8
07-16-2013 06:54 AM