I am getting ready to do this but, can't find the section of the manual that shows what needs to be done. Also, looking for the parts list of things that I will need to replace while doing this. Gaskets or any other worn parts that need/should be replaced while I have it in pieces.

2007 FLHTCU

 

I don;t have your model or manual for-so hesitate to give direction.

but if you have correct year manual you will find instructions ( the section marked DRIVE, often this is section 5) on removing the primary cover- the clutch hub on most models is left hand thread( and if so is detailed in the manual) and how to lock the primary so you can loosen the bolts...I use a rag, others have used hemp rope or wood blocks.



VERY important that on reassembly DO NOT use impact tools !

the rotor is marked "no sharp blows", the manual details no sharp blows in many editions...same with clutch hub.

this is also the time to inspect your tensioner

mike

 

Okay I found that section that does help. Do you know which gaskets I will have to replace.

 

probably just the primary gasket ( I have a bunch of bikes, but not an 07- so take my word with caution- your manual is the best guide) - if the old one is smooth and un damaged you may be able to reuse...but for $20 ( or whatever) you can save yourself time by just replacing.

I have taken the cheap route and had to drain my fresh lube into a clean pan because I had a seep and needed to pull the old gasket..but time wasn;t an issue.


I keep common gaskets and seals at home, along with the common lubes. saves me having to wait for a shop to open when I want to do something.

btw there are tutorials on the forums:

https://www.hdforums.com/how-tos/a/h...ensator-420038

Mike

 

Should be just the primary gasket.......I reused mine when I replaced the tensioner.....no leaks......haven't replaced comp yet with 39k miles....

 

You'll need a drive locking tool. I made one out of 1/4" x 2" x 6.5" oak.

 

Just did my 2007 SG and put the Baker comp and attitude adjuster in. Here are the instructions and should tell you what you need. you didn't say what you were putting in but this might help.

http://crustyoldsite.bakerdrivetrain...-V9.052716.pdf

 

You don't provide mileage or current set up. If you still have the factory comp you will need to replace the rotor, the flywheel thing with the alternator magnets cast into it. Neither the current Harley or Baker units will work with the 2007 factory rotor. Pay attention to the videos that show grinding away some of the primary case to allow removal of the rotor OR loosening the inner primary for rotor removal and replacement. Not much grinding is required and that is what I did. Loosening the inner primary may tear the gaskets and then require the inner primary to be removed to replace the gaskets.

The magnets in the rotors are very strong. It will be hard to start the old rotor moving out as you pull, but will be easier after the magnets get farther away form the steel armatures in the field windings. Then the new rotor will want to slam into position in the last 1/2 inch or so of movement and can pinch your fingers. The new rotor will add about another $250 to the cost of the job. I replaced my primary chain adjuster because I believed a redesigned unit was available. It wasn't, I only had 15,000 miles on it at the time and wear was slight.

Various manuals also suggest removing the clutch and compensator together but that isn't necessary if you remove the chain tensioner. Then there is plenty of slack in the chain to disengage the teeth and just remove the compensator. Should you decide to go the clutch and compensator removal route, the clutch has a left handed thread retainer. The new compensator is mounted with a bolt that requires a T70 Torx bit, available at NAPA, I am told. People have reported success using JB Weld to mount the little oil scupper on the outer primary cover. Be sure to remove all traces of oil with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner before applying the epoxy to the surface. If I remember correctly, the mounting bolt will require a torque wrench going to 200 pounds. Hopefully Oreilly or Autozone has one like that in their rental collection. It will probably have a 1/2 inch or 1 inch drive. You may need an adapter for that T70 bit.

People have reused the outer primary cover gasket but I don't know if that has been tried on a 10 model year old bike, I suggest having a new one on hand. It isn't a bad job for someone who has worked on lawn mowers and cars, but is a bit daunting for a first timer. Good luck.

 

nice link. I thought the new SE Comp required gluing that plastic oil deflector part to the primary cover? didn't see that in the writeup

 

Do the Comp springs go bad mostly or is it really the result of a bad Comp?