I'm wondering how many of you lubed your Steering Head Bearings at 10 and 20K and if so what grease did you use.

Also, what type of grease gun do you use to apply through the neck nipple?

 

you can use just typical grease gun grease...like you would buy from most auto parts store. There is nothing real fancy about these bearings. Since they are not exposed to the elements (they are basically covered from rain/water getting to them) any grease will work. I use regular grease taht cost a couple bucks per tube.
Get a pistol grip grease gun and a flexible connector. Usually the auto parts store will have the flex tubes. Remove the ridgid tube that comes with the grease gun, attach the flex tube. That will allow you to bend the tube and make a good connection to the grease fitting. Or even better, get the flex tube and the swivel type connector and attach it to the end of the tube then put on the grease fitting adapter. A couple shots of grease everytime you change the oil works good. Be sure not to keep adding grease, once you notice it pushing out from the bearings.
Here are a couple pics of the gun, flex connector, and swivel head that i use. Northern Tool, Advance auto parts or any farm supply whse will have these in stock.


[IMG]local://upfiles/2462/0BC60315CF5647D6ADDD7E6DDA456C43.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/2462/44CE104B30FD45ACAB81918ECC0C51AD.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/2462/D502B646D826418F93B0C792FF81F39B.jpg[/IMG]

 

Or, just change out the zerk to a 45 or 90 degree one and save your money on buying all the grease gun attachments

 

I went with changing the zerk to a 45deg.This way I was able to use the gun I had already.
I would pump in the grease till you see it come out so the old grease gets purged out of the bearings.
If you do a search you will find many posts on this subject.

 

For those of you with 45 or 90° zerks, how did you arrange for them to point in the right direction (rearward) when fully seated. It seems like that would be like rolling the dice.

I am using a rubber extension with 90° "L" on the end. I can't recall where I bought the "L", as I've had it for years, but Harbor Freight has the rubber extensions.

Also, the first time you grease the head you'll pump 'til your hand almost falls off. I used about half a tube on it the first time, as at the factory they must use a teaspoonful to pack it. That's probably why they require it to be serviced at 1000 miles, then every 10k, or whatever. I usually top mine off every 5k.

Cheap grease may be okay, but I use only high-grade stuff (Royal Purple in this case). It is $10/tube like most of the top-drawer stuff in the stores, like Mobil 1, etc. The difference in price just isn't enough to warrant buying anything but the best, IMO, which is the same philosophy I use for engine oil.

 

It was quite simple actually,you just tighten it down to almost snug (leaving a full turn of play) and then check with the grease gun to see how it works then tighten it up to that location. I drilled and tapped my primary in the shifter sleeve and installed the zerk that I took out in that to lube my shifter like the EVO's used to have.

 

Zerks have a NPT thread.They will start to get tight without bottoming out.Tighten so the grease gun will fit.

 

iclick..that's because the factory lubes just the bearings at assembly, not entire neck tube.The bearings are all that really need the grease, but it would be a PIA to disassemble front end just to do bearings.
Later