I am 6'1" tall. From a comfort standpoint it is MUCH better for me over stock. I actually struggled between the 10 and 12 inch and definitely feel the 10's are best for me. My arms are pretty much level straight out to the grips. My posture is much better.

I went with Wild Ones because I used them before on my 08 FLHX and liked them and the quality. There are several excellent brands but me careful because some measure them differently. I also felt these matched the lines of the bike the best and would be the easiest to run the wires.

I would rate the difficulty of running the wires the first time at a 6 on a scale to 10. Now that I have done it I would rate it at a 4. I have concerns about the unknown. You fear damaging a wire and you really have to figure it out. The first time I ran the throttle wire through and then realized I would have to pull it back out and run it with the switch control wires at the same time. I wrapped the ends of the wires with electric tape, had a string tied to the end that I taped over, applied a light coat of grease and pulled the string with one hand while pushing the cables in with the other hand. It is really not a big deal. My hat is off to the guys that do the Yaffe style bars with the sharp bends. That has to be tougher.

The 12 inch extensions were perfect and all I needed.

 

Thanks to all for the tips
Happy New Year

 

I now see exactly what you are referring to. I'm seriously looking into doing this and hope you wouldn't mind if I pm you a few questions later. Good job and thks for passing this along

 

Nice detailed post and pictures of the process. The main thing you have to decide is if you want your hands behind or above the batwing. Most all of the bars that are 10's keep your hands below where they stay protected from the elements. I've had both and prefer my hands behind the batwing.

 

Cosmic, I told ya I would be back with some questions. If you don't mind, could you take a few minutes to help me out.


1. Is it possible to post links to the TBW extension and the bushings
2. Did you pull the tank for this?
3. On the inner fairing side, is it just the switch fairing with the switches you needed to pull?
4. Have heated grips too, right? Those wires needed nothing a to lengthening?


I did see the part to trim 3/8'' from the left bar end. Appreciate your help on this and anxious to do this nice winter mod. Dan

 

Found this on eBay. Would this be the correct wire. BTW, 2017 CVO Limited


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Namz-12-TBW-...1Xn26N&vxp=mtr

 

Dan,

I tried to cover everything I can here in hopes to help make this easy. The best advice I can give is to read all the threads you can, watch as many You Tube videos as you can and call the manufacturer of the bars you intend to purchase and ask them all the ins and outs. The last suggestion is one I failed to do. Got lucky and very happy with my bars but did have to redo a couple of things.

Here is a link (yes 41 minutes long) that I found most helpful.


Or just do a Google search: Changing Handle Bars Harley Rushmore

Also a big “Thank You” to all the other forum members that did write ups and answered my questions.

I purchased everything on eBay. It is very easy to search for the Polyurethane Bushings and Wire Extensions.

Riser Bushings: J & P Cycles have some starting as low as $11.99 on their website. The link is too long to post.

Remember on the riser bolts that the Torque spec is 30 to 35 Foot Pounds. I went with 35. If you over tighten them you will feel every bump in the road!!

As for pulling the tank I did not and see any reason to. However I would suggest pulling the console off. Just pull the gas cap and remove the front and back screws. It will give you better clearance remove the ignition switch cover. I did not do that and scratched my cover. It is very tight getting the cover off.

Yes that Namz extension looks right however I received two separate extension cables. See the picture attached which is a copy of the purchases from eBay and you will see what I mean.

Yes I have heated grips also and did not need any extensions other than the Namz above. The left hand grip was a little tight. I did have to remove a wire tie to get it to connect. Was just a little tight.

I think all the above answers you four questions listed.

Here is a quick rundown of what you need to do:

1) Remove Seat

2) Disconnect Battery

3) Remove Tank Console (Optional but should make the switch cover removal easier)

4) Cover the tank and lower fairings with a good protective blanket. I use the blue moving blanket.

5) Cover the front Fender with same type of blanket or anything thick that will not scratch paint.

6) Remove the left and right mounting brackets with the spot light attached.

7) There are two bolts for each. Remove the nuts and while holding it so it doesn’t drop disconnect the wiring connection. Very easy. Repeat for the other side.

8) Next loosen up the three bolts on the top out fairing and remove the windshield. Set it in a safe spot out of the way.

9) Go ahead and remove the two out bolts leaving the center bolt in place to hold the fairing while you remove the inner bolts.

10) There are two inner fairing bolts on each side. I refer to them as upper and lower. Just for reference when re-assembling the longer of the bolts is the upper. Remove all four bolts.

11) Now carefully remove the center outside fairing bolt that you left in and hold the fairing so it does not fall. Disconnect the wiring connector to the headlight and carefully place the fairing in a safe place out of the way.

12) Next go back to the studs that the spot light brackets mount to and remove both of them on each side.

13) Once the studs are removed the chrome plastic cover that runs across the forks under the headlight can be easily removed.

14) The next step is to remove the switch cover. There is a screw on the left and right side. Remove those screws. Then press down on the top of the switch cover under the infotainment (left and right of the ignition) and you will easily release two tabs. Then gently pull back on the cover exposing the wire connections and disconnect both of them right and left. Pull the cover back to clear the ignition switch and set that cover aside.

15) Next straddle the front fender facing the bike and with both hands lift up the entire fairing a couple of inches and lean it forward at the top toward you. Refer to the video link above and to the pictures attached. I was amazed how easy this was and how well it stayed in place. CAUTION: I have read the some have had the fairing to fall and damaged wires and front fender. Use caution and make sure it feels secure.

16) Next clip off all the wire ties holding the cables to the stock bars.

17) Next I suggest removing the switch housing on both the left and right side of the handle bars. You will also carefully remove the clutch unit and allow it to hang down out of the way where it does not contact any painted surfaces. You will do the same for the front brake unit. Refer again to the You Tube video for removal of the upper button on the left that you press to see the mileage display. It is easy when you see how if comes off. Do that first before removing anything on the left side.

18) Next loosen the four riser top bracket bolts above the handle bars. Then carefully rotate the bars back and down out if the way. Next I suggest you loosen the two main riser mounting bolts from underneath the tree. Remember to keep all painted services covered and protected.

19) Now it is time to disconnect all the wires to remove the handle bars. I suggest taking some pictures and paying close attention to where everything connects back up. The nice thing is the connections are all pretty much different so no real problem crossing anything.

20) Now go ahead and remove the four bolts and the riser top cap and the handle bars should be free and you can place them on your work bench.

21) Next remove the two main riser mounting bolts and pull the soft stock rubber bushings out. You will probably have to use a long screw driver and a mallet to knock them out.

22) Now is the best time to go ahead and install the new harder Polyurethane bushings and re-mount the two riser brackets. Once in place and the bolts hand tightened put your new bars on and add the top cap and four bolts. This is required to hold the support straight while you torque the bolts. Remember 30 to 35 Ft Lbs. Once torqued pull the new bars back off and head to your work bench.

23) Now it’s time to remove the grips and wiring from your stock bars. This is very simple as the wires are pretty much external except for the Throttle. Just take your time and it will be easy.

24) Now before you start pulling wires through your new bars make sure there is not anything special you need to do to the bars. For Example on my Wild One WO578 you need to cut 3/8 inch off the bars on the left end it you have heated grips. Check the manufacturer’s website and better yet call and talk with them in advance.

25) Now it is time to run your wires. This is simple and easy, just take your time and don’t force anything. I started on the throttle side. Cut two strings long enough to go through the end of the bar and out the center with enough length to grab and pull from. More is better. Tie a nut to the ends and drop one string in from the outside hole near where the switch cover mounts and the other from the end where the throttle control mounts. Rotate the bars as needed to allow the weight to travel through the bars and out the center hole. Now connect the other ends to the wires you will be pulling thought. I am an electric tape guy. I tie the string onto the wires and cover everything from the end back as needed with electric tape. Enough to add protection and hold the string but small enough to pull through. I then apply a thin film of grease/lube on the electric tape. Start pulling each of the two wires together and carefully feed the wires in from the other side. In no time all the wire ends will all be coming out the center hole of the bars. Remove the tape and strings.

26) Repeat the above for the other side and the hardest part, or maybe I should say the most stressful part is done!

27) Congratulations you can take a break now!!!

28) Next place the new bars on the risers and bolt the top plate on and hand tighten the four bolts allowing the bars to lay down forward out of the way.

29) Next you want to attach you Namz wiring extensions and reconnect all the electrical connections.

30) Now is the time to determine where you want the bars set at. I caution you as you will need to get on the bike and turn the forks to be extremely careful with the fairing. Move slowly, make sure it is secure and be prepared to grab it if it begins to slip down.

31) You will need to place you seat back on at this point.

32) Get on the bike and move the bars until they feel comfortable. Then tighten down the four top bolts on the riser top plate.

33) You are pretty much home free now. The hardest part is done.

34) Next start reassembling everything in reverse order.

Tips:
1) You will most likely have to loosen both the clutch line connection and the front brake line connection fittings at the reservoir to change the angle the lines hang at. This can easily be done without spilling a drop and allowing any air to enter. Loosen them one at a time VERY LITTLE turning only enough that you can rotate them slightly as needed and immediately re-tighten.

2) Depending on your bars and the diameter you will most likely have to trim the plastic on the lower fairing and the outside edges of the switch cover to clear the larger diameter bars. I had to trim both. I used a dremel tool with a ½ diameter round sanding drum and did just a little at a time. If a gap develops below the infotainment unit and the plastic inner fairing you have not trimmed enough. If there is a gap between the inner fairing and the switch cover you need to trim more off of both outside edges of the switch cover around the handle bars. Take your time and do a little and see how it fits. Don’t stress out this is now big deal. When finished use some compressed air to clean up.


It took me 6-1/2 hours over two nights doing it by myself. Now that I have done it I consider it a pretty easy project. I could probably do it in 5 hours now. If you have a buddy to help that would be even better. You need three hands for a couple of things.

Keep in mind that this was on a 2016 Limited using Wild One WO578 Bars. Your bike or choice of bars could alter this process. Do your research.

I am not a tech. I am simply sharing my experience and process. Your results may very

Good luck you will be glad you did it.

 

Pictures for reference

 

Reference pictures...

 

Pictures for reference