I watched that video and it seems that something is wrong with that bike...

I have run my bikes both "old frame" and "new frame" much harder than that on the street (less than perfect pavement) and never had an issue like is in the video.
Yes, my bikes have suspension that is properly set up, not worn out, good tires and proper chassis alignment and steering neck adjustment, but no braces of any kind. heck, I press them harder then that with no hands...

 

Taping a floorboard makes em wobble? The boards, on the bikes I got, fold up.. I have not had that happen to me and i've drug more than a few times.. I do know of a few turns that can bring the worst out on a motorcycle tho.. With or without dragging the boards.

 

Thank you for your gearing suggestion. It didn't feel like the rear suspension topped out, but I may have missed it.

Indeed, the Ohlins are being installed even before I do the stage 1. That's assuming I manage to survive long enough based on my apparent reckless and dangerous riding style lol.

Thank you.

I definitly did learn something. I knew of the reputation, and was glad to have read about it prior to experiencing it. Otherwise I may have been on the brakes harder, which could have had a bad outcome. But it wasn't that bad, I was just reporting it.

Also, the rear tire was in fact 5psi lower (35) then the book value (40). The front was spot on. I suppose in that perfect combination of conditions that could have effect.

Nevertheless, thank you all for the helpful comments, and those that need to say otherwise, I understand the need of some to be critical. It's just tough love huh?

 

Some of the human ways are lost sitting behind a screen punching away at the keyboard.
Although most of us do a pretty good job of communicating in the digital world, that's really not how we were raised. Anyways...
I was in similar situation once, with the same question...WHY? Why did it do what it did?
(I've ridden a lot of bikes, most of the sporting type, canyon carvers outta the box VFFs, GPZs, FZR's)
Back then there was no internet chat rooms. So, unless I spent every weekend at the track, picking everyone else's brains, I had to solve my motorcycle's issues on my own. Ride the hell out of them, find their shortcomings and work them out. And that's what I did, and how I learned.
So, get out there and replicate that death wobble, but before you head out, do a fallaway test, see if you're in the hunt, check your drivetrain alignment, just so you can say yup, drivetrain is true to rest of chassis. Now you've got the basics covered. Preload the shocks a bit more, or change the fork oil to something a little heavier, head out and look for differences. Try adjusting your riding position, and if the wobble comes back, don't focus on your pucker, instead focus on what's going on and how to diminish it.
65-70 is well within the machine's suspension tolerances. If it starts to misbehave and gets worse, it's not the bike...it's you!
This may not make sense to you, it's just another comment in a sea of suggestions, but your bike has a lot of room in handling capability, most of it unexplored. Stabos and other links will help, but you'd be surprised how far you can push your rig with just good tires, the right compliant suspension and a little body english.
And next time try steady throttle to get you out of the curve, (there's a lot of room before hardware meets asphalt, and even when it does, there's still room)
You may not grind parts yet, but when you do you'll have the experience along with confidence to do what you think you should do next

 

Until they change the design the wobble will always be there. Whether you find it or not depends on your riding style and road conditions. It's on my 15 RGS and I feel it all the time on freeway transition ramps because it's a sweeping curve with bumps. I use the Alloy Art brace to help control it. Simple design and easy to install.
http://www.alloyart.com/bagger/touri...-09-to-present