Winter Storage Battery question
#21
1. have fob with you
2. turn on ignition and wait for the alarm to deactivate
3. pull maxifuse out of your fuseblock
4. turn ignition off again and disconnect cables/remove battery
#22
If you really mean 'alarm' and not just the 'security', then it would behoove you to have your fob with you when you remove the battery or you'll blast your ears out in your garage.
1. have fob with you
2. turn on ignition and wait for the alarm to deactivate
3. pull maxifuse out of your fuseblock
4. turn ignition off again and disconnect cables/remove battery
1. have fob with you
2. turn on ignition and wait for the alarm to deactivate
3. pull maxifuse out of your fuseblock
4. turn ignition off again and disconnect cables/remove battery
#23
A battery tender or a trickle charger? Big difference.
http://www.batterytender.com/Dion/Ba...derR-Plus.html
I've used battery tenders for years on multiple batteries over the winter or when not being used for extended times. It has done nothing but extend the life of the batteries for me.
http://www.batterytender.com/Dion/Ba...derR-Plus.html
I've used battery tenders for years on multiple batteries over the winter or when not being used for extended times. It has done nothing but extend the life of the batteries for me.
Last edited by Egldr05; 10-30-2016 at 06:44 PM.
#24
That's not necessarily true.....
The older ferroresonant chargers required frequent battery checks and fluid fills on lead acid batteries and they would cook a maintenance free or sealed AGM battery over time. They put out a constant charge... usually drops to low amperage based on voltage, but a constant charge none the less.
Most (not all, be sure to check) battery tenders are smart chargers that go through 3 or 4 charging stages. The last being a float charge that is voltage dependent. They will not over charge or cook your batteries. They will, in fact, add life to a battery....
The older ferroresonant chargers required frequent battery checks and fluid fills on lead acid batteries and they would cook a maintenance free or sealed AGM battery over time. They put out a constant charge... usually drops to low amperage based on voltage, but a constant charge none the less.
Most (not all, be sure to check) battery tenders are smart chargers that go through 3 or 4 charging stages. The last being a float charge that is voltage dependent. They will not over charge or cook your batteries. They will, in fact, add life to a battery....
The problem i have seen 1st hand with some of todays maint/float chargers is that i found when i checked battery voltage hr's (& also 2-3days later too!) after the maint charger went to float mode that it was holding the battery voltage @ consistent 13.1-13.2 volts,again hr's & 2-3+days later too which is what i have an issue with.
But as soon as i would remove the main charger from the battery it's voltage would drop from the 13.1-13.2v volts the float was holding the battery at for days on end to 12.9v's in only 6-8hs.
So that showed me the the maint/float charger was in fact holding the battery at 13.1-13.2 volts which short term (24hr's or less) shouldn't hurt an AGM battery even though it has less acid then older gen std lead acid battery has by design.
But a maint/float charger that's keeping the battery at 13.1-13.2 volts 24/7 or close to that is the situation where a battery can be " cooked " as you put it significantly reducing it's srv'c life in the process.
I have seen that situation happen 1st hand more then just a couple times over the yrs with motorcycles and classic cars i maintain/wrench for other people so i know it can & does happen in some cases when using maint/float chargers in those apps, but not allways.
To avoid that situation all together i simply put a maint/float charger on the battery till the battery is fully charged and remove it ASAP to avoid damage/overcharging the battery.
Or you can simply come back approx 24hrs later (battery in good cond should be fully charged by then) & remove the maint/float charger to avoid damage because keeping the battery @ 13.1-13.2v (in my maint chargers case) for less then 24hrs should not damage it.
I'd like to see a battery charger mfg design a 1,1.5,2,3,5amp battery charger to 1st fully charge the battery(AGM for this example) and turn off it's full charge mode when it reaches approx 13-13.1V (THEN NO MORE CHARGE VOLTAGE OF ANY KIND GOING TO THE BATTERY AT ALL AFTER THAT!)
NOTE,From what i understand full charge for the Yuasa GYZ32HL 500cca AGM touring battery in my 09 HD is approx 12.8-12.9v's.
Then 2nd would be for the charger to monitor battery voltage and when it drops to approx 12.75-12.8v to turn on its full charge rate again.
Then 3 would be when the battery once again reaches full charge again (13-13.1V'S) " all charge voltage to the battery should be turned off again " with the charger now entering battery voltage monitoring mode again.
Then a maint/float charger designed like that could safely-fully charge the battery/then turn off charge mode/then monitor batt voltage & restarts the charge process again as required to be repeated over & over again till the maint/float charger was removed from the battery without damaging it.
The key point being the charger is no longer keeping the battery @ 13.1-13.2v's for long periods of time(24/7 or close to it) while in float charge rate mode like i found was happening in my maint/float chargers case that in some cases can damage/cook the battery leading to premature battery failure.
As always i am just passing along some info & 1st hand experiences i have on the subject for those that are interested.
Scott
Last edited by wscott; 10-30-2016 at 09:23 PM.
#26
OP, take the battery home and put a smart charger on it. Smart-float maintainers are not hard on a battery, it's the "smart" way to treat a battery that is inactive for a lengthy period of time.
It's an old wive's tale to avoid setting a battery on concrete.
I put all of mine on a xmas tree light timer and set it for about an hour per day ... not sure why, but I do.
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