The guys dyno may run low. There are enough happy dyno's out there that put out inflated numbers. Temp's, Humidity fuel that was in the bike (knock sensor and timing)... A lot of things come into play. While I do agree your numbers are low in the grand scheeme of things they don't mater. What does is the chart. That is what you should post. The shape and area under the TQ curve and the AFR table will tell you what you sepnt your money on. The true duals will hurt the TQ numbers and that cam is not an HP cam.

 

You are about to fall down a very expensive rabbit hole...... take the above advice....

Chasing Dyno numbers is good for nothing but bragging on forums.... and it will cost you a fortune...

You would be surprised in the difference between dyno sheets of the same bike, on different dynos, on different days.... You're certainly in the ballpark for you mods...

I have a 2012 103 bagger with Stage II (SE255 cams) and a Fuelmoto tune. My bike runs great... and I haven't a clue, nor do I care, what it would do on a dyno... if I were racing, that would be a different story, but I'm just a "spirited" cruiser... I'm good.

As far as the heat goes.... Don't start messing with the tune to try to cool the motor... For the heat, I got a set of Jason's fans and the ETIMS has not kicked on since.

If you're happy as you say... ride it and enjoy it...!

 

The OP says he's not to happy with 85/94 huh? Let's review:

Didn't adjust mechanical compression or set deck height or squish. Check.
Using dual exhaust. (sounds good though) Check.
School bus cams are cheap and readily available. (there's a reason) Check.

With those strikes against your engine, I think your tuner deserves a case of beer from you. Pretty respectable numbers for what he had to work with.

If the EITMS bothers you, roll your throttle forward to shut it off. Or buy a PV or TTS tuner and shut it off permanently. I did years ago and don't miss it.

 

That's why I stop with a stage 1.(exhaust, tuner, intake.) Some people spend thousands on high dollar exhaust, intake, tuners, big bore kits and more for what is in my opinion minimal gain compared to what it all cost. That's just my opinion.

 

What he said!

Don't worry about the numbers. All those things Todd mentioned can affect the numbers. Also how he set the dyno brake to compensate for wind drag. Sounds like the guy tuning it was standup and didn't tweak his dyno to put out high numbers. Does the bike run good and smooth through the rpm range? Does it pull better? Are the lines on the dyno smooth and not scribbled like a lie detector test? Then ignore the numbers and ride it like you stole it with a big grin on your face.

 

I have a gutted factory pipe, V&H round slip ons, PCV. I had a local shop install their own custom grind cam, lifters, push rods, oil change, and dyno tune. All was under $1K and the best money I spent. Big improvements

 

You say the bike ran good, but you went ahead and got it dyno-tuned by a tuner with a good rep to squeeze a little more out. He gained you an additional 4 HP and 10TQ over the canned map. That's a good gain. Save yourself time, money and aggravation and ride the bike. Yes, you are being picky. Stop chasing numbers.

 

Might be helpful to post your sheet. Lots of factors can affect dyno numbers, including humidity.

 

Was Wolfgang in Baytown the highly recommended tuner? They don't get any better.

 

There ya go.

So,



and