If I were doing it, I would use a Unibit aka a step drill. These things work great on fiberglass, sheet metal and plastic....

 

The only thing to add was after putting down the blue tape, I used a ***** punch and a light tap of a hammer to make starter divots so the drill wouldn't bit wouldn't "walk". I started with a pilot hole and worked my way up to the hole size.

I felt your anxiety but it and the pak mounted spoiler/brake light installation went fine.

 

Make sure you postion the rack facing the correct way - with the roll-up lip in the back.

 

just did mine. used mask tape, marked holes, used 1/8 pilot drill then a standard metal twist drill like youd find anywhere. cake!!

 

what kind of racks (brand)are you guys buying.??

 

Great advice here... My $.02 includes the "upgrade" of larger washers to be between the feet of the rack and the top of your tour pack. I bought some "star" chrome washers which help to spread the weight out over a broader area than just the small washers that come with the rack. And it looks good, too. With any weight on there, and a good hard shot on the road, your tour pack lid could develop a crack. Just wanting to prevent something rather than create a problem down the road...

 

Man, it looks on my screen like I got censored! The type of punch I used rhymes with pick. I think it's the proper term for a center type punch with a sharper, finer point.

 

Just did my new Ultra.

Masking tape not so much for splintering, as for moving the rack around without scratching the finish. I did not use the template, I chose to position it and eyeball every angle. Took awhile, but I know it is right. I also used a punch to put a small indent in the middle of each ring to help the bit to bite without wandering.

Also, if you have a lid organizer, forget the adhesive (it always peels off anyway) and drill through the organizer backing and let the four rack bolts hold it. I used large washers and they are invisible inside the pockets. Holds like a charm.