DK Custom Oil Filter Relocation Kit Install--2014 Limited
#1
DK Custom Oil Filter Relocation Kit Install--2014 Limited
Just installed the DK Custom Oil Filter Relocation Kit today for 2009+ Touring on my 2014 FLHTK, and thought I'd take a few pictures this time, instead of getting all done with a project and wishing I had, like usual.
For those that might be considering this mod, or are not in favor of this type of thing, please do not take this post to mean that I think anyone else should do this. For me, the mess of changing oil filters on the front of this engine was just getting tiring, and since I ran a remote oil filter on a chopper years ago, I am comfortable with this concept.
Prior to changing out the bits, the oil pressure on a warm-up ride around the neighborhood was 36 psi. After the conversion, the oil pressure was again at 36 psi on the same neighborhood ride. YMMV.
Pics:
Remove the left passenger floorboard and mount up the bracketology. The included instructions on how to assemble the 3 pieces at the back are straightforward--follow them.
After removing the oil filter from the stock location, screw on the adapter plate. The fittings are already installed at the optimum locations to route the hoses. This photo is after the hoses are installed on the front adapter plate.
Route the hoses under the engine and along the frame rail. I chose to run them close together, and zip-tied them at various places to make sure that they cannot be caught by anything that might catch them, like a bike lift under the frame. Strategic use of zip ties helps to relieve any stress at the bends, and routing the hoses properly around the mounting brackets is a good plan.
Make sure that there is plenty of clearance between the new hoses and the drive belt. Here are some pictures of the undercarriage that try to show the belt/hose clearance, and the hose routing on the lower frame rail. It's easy to make sure of proper clearance when you're right there.
Fitment pictures after a test ride:
And one last shot of the fittings after painting them with plasti-dip today:
My only concern when first considering this kit was cornering clearance on the left side. After installing the brackets and filter, I'm pretty sure there is no way that the assembly could touch the ground, because the crash bars would prevent it, no matter the lean angle.
All the best,
Shane
For those that might be considering this mod, or are not in favor of this type of thing, please do not take this post to mean that I think anyone else should do this. For me, the mess of changing oil filters on the front of this engine was just getting tiring, and since I ran a remote oil filter on a chopper years ago, I am comfortable with this concept.
Prior to changing out the bits, the oil pressure on a warm-up ride around the neighborhood was 36 psi. After the conversion, the oil pressure was again at 36 psi on the same neighborhood ride. YMMV.
Pics:
Remove the left passenger floorboard and mount up the bracketology. The included instructions on how to assemble the 3 pieces at the back are straightforward--follow them.
After removing the oil filter from the stock location, screw on the adapter plate. The fittings are already installed at the optimum locations to route the hoses. This photo is after the hoses are installed on the front adapter plate.
Route the hoses under the engine and along the frame rail. I chose to run them close together, and zip-tied them at various places to make sure that they cannot be caught by anything that might catch them, like a bike lift under the frame. Strategic use of zip ties helps to relieve any stress at the bends, and routing the hoses properly around the mounting brackets is a good plan.
Make sure that there is plenty of clearance between the new hoses and the drive belt. Here are some pictures of the undercarriage that try to show the belt/hose clearance, and the hose routing on the lower frame rail. It's easy to make sure of proper clearance when you're right there.
Fitment pictures after a test ride:
And one last shot of the fittings after painting them with plasti-dip today:
My only concern when first considering this kit was cornering clearance on the left side. After installing the brackets and filter, I'm pretty sure there is no way that the assembly could touch the ground, because the crash bars would prevent it, no matter the lean angle.
All the best,
Shane
Last edited by Shanebo; 10-11-2016 at 01:06 PM. Reason: Added pictures
The following 5 users liked this post by Shanebo:
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#6
From the caption above the 3rd photo...
"Route the hoses under the engine and along the frame rail. I chose to run them close together, and zip-tied them at various places to make sure that they cannot be caught by anything that might catch them, like a bike lift under the frame. Strategic use of zip ties helps to relieve any stress at the bends, and routing the hoses properly around the mounting brackets is a good plan."
Like other things that go along the bottom frame rails, the hoses can be routed and attached such that they are completely at/above/inside the frame rail. Unless you do a poor job of hose management while installing, you'd have a hard time getting to the hoses with a jack from the bottom.
That said, I will be checking to make sure, next time I use the frame lift.
All the best,
Shane
#7
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#10
From the website:
- Installation is simple. If you have an existing OEM oil cooler, you don't even touch it during install. Simply remove the oil filter (not the housing that the oil filter screws onto that has the oil cooler lines), and relocate it back to under the passenger floorboard with the CnC Kit brackets and new Oil Filter Mount.
Since it is made of commonly-available relocation adapters, I believe it would work with a variety of configurations already in use.
The parts/brackets that they make and powdercoat, along with the proper hardware, fittings, and hoses/clamps are what sets this kit apart.
All the best,
Shane