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Rode 300 mi today! Bike pings on 91 fuel thinking about octane boost .

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  #31  
Old 09-29-2016 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by StephenFLHT
So I got out and put some miles on today , and I noticed that running 55-70+ mph in 5th gear when I get on it to pass , catch up, go up a grade ,and so on it pings to various degrees. 91 pump fuel is the highest level we have anywhere in the state. That's what I run . Engine is a mystery other than it has sock heads and an s&s E carb . I know it's been gone through at the dealer 6500 mi ago but what ever cam and possible port work wasn't changed. So my simple solution is octane booster and carry a bottle along. Anyone else done this or had similar issues. Bike is 96 flht with 80 inch evo stock case jugs and heads as far as I know. I assume the dealer put stock pistons in it but who knows. Or is there a way to adjust the timing? I hate to do that tho cause I get close to 46 mpg right now and we all know that having to stop more often isn't a good mod. Thanks for any help. Ps I could barely notice is but kept hearing a funny tone then when I put my head down out of the wind it's plain as day the pinging.
Back to the OP.. Without knowing what's in the motor. You best bet is to check the Voes switch and carbon in the combustion chambers.. Barring that your best bet is probably to back off the timing a little.. You can try going up on the main might help also. 91 octain should not be an issue unless your compression is really up there. the problem is that you need to figure out at least what you have for jets in the carb and what type if ignition system it's running. You can do a compression check to get an idea what the cranking compression is. If its above say 180 psi, I'd make sure there is an adjustable ignition in the bike.

It sounds like you just bought this thing and really don't know whats going on with it.. It might be a good idea to find a good indy that knows a bit about evos and have him look at it.. It's totally possible that the motor was rebuilt because the motor wasn't tuned correctly in the first place.
 
  #32  
Old 10-11-2016 | 11:51 AM
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So I got some time to pull the cover off and it has a 2000i in it . All switch are down . So curve #1 and 6000 rpm limit. No retard . I don't have a manual for the 2000i so I have no idea what that means. The plate is advanced almost to the valley of the last tooth in the case . So how do I get a manual for the 2000i an how best to proceed at this point.
 
  #33  
Old 10-11-2016 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by StephenFLHT
So I got some time to pull the cover off and it has a 2000i in it . All switch are down . So curve #1 and 6000 rpm limit. No retard . I don't have a manual for the 2000i so I have no idea what that means. The plate is advanced almost to the valley of the last tooth in the case . So how do I get a manual for the 2000i an how best to proceed at this point.
Now c'mon! We're on the internet - I got their website in one attempt, took me seconds! Look for 'Dynatek downloads'.
 
  #34  
Old 10-11-2016 | 12:46 PM
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Ok in all reality the Google term you provided was needed . I found lots of pdf for this install and functional use but the dyna download was the only one with the timing curve listed . Looks like #1 is the most aggressive and I will probably re verify static timing and start with curve #2 see what I end up with. Plug reading and see if it has any peppering.
 
  #35  
Old 10-11-2016 | 02:05 PM
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Cool. Let us know how it goes.
 
  #36  
Old 10-11-2016 | 02:18 PM
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One thought, this time of year the oil companies start changing over to "winter" gas. It can run on the low side of ROM because of the colder weather, vehicles can run a little better with denser air. I would find a Sunoco and run the 93 till Summer
 
  #37  
Old 10-11-2016 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by StephenFLHT
Ok in all reality the Google term you provided was needed . I found lots of pdf for this install and functional use but the dyna download was the only one with the timing curve listed . Looks like #1 is the most aggressive and I will probably re verify static timing and start with curve #2 see what I end up with. Plug reading and see if it has any peppering.

This is good ignition.

You can also check plate timing statically.. I lock everything down and turn the motor to see where the led goes out.. TDC front.. Leave the plugs out as when the LED goes out the front plug (or both) will spark. By using the T mark in the timing hole you can advance or retard the timing curve 3 degrees by placing the timing line at the front (retard) or rear (advance)of the hole. It doesn't surprise me that the bike has too much timing is anything has been done to the motor.. For instance.. I've got a 113 SnS motor and run curve 4 retarded 3 degrees.
 
  #38  
Old 10-11-2016 | 10:36 PM
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vacuum leak? Lean jetting? wrong timing?

Have you "read" the spark plugs?

Octane boosters are IMHO a waste of time, and if used at the wrong ratio will precipitate crap out on your plugs.

If you want octane, and you don't have cat's, find a friend that has access to 100 octane Low Lead from you local airport. :-)
 
  #39  
Old 10-12-2016 | 02:05 AM
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Just two things to consider.

Carbon build up. I have found that Techron does not do the job. Tore a 103 down at 7,600 miles. Techron was used every 1K and three tanks treated. I went back to misting with water which always works with one qualification. DO NOT run the engine "hot and hard" after treatment. That dramatically raises combustion chamber pressure and temperature which will re-harden the carbon build up before it flakes off. Run it easy.

Octane booster will add substantial new deposits which will increase the potential for pinging because they retain heat. The build up look like round fuzzy bumps on the pistons. Do not use it.

Forget what I posted. I know nothing just ask my wife and kids.
 
  #40  
Old 10-12-2016 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by lh4x4
Just two things to consider.

Carbon build up. I have found that Techron does not do the job. Tore a 103 down at 7,600 miles. Techron was used every 1K and three tanks treated. I went back to misting with water which always works with one qualification. DO NOT run the engine "hot and hard" after treatment. That dramatically raises combustion chamber pressure and temperature which will re-harden the carbon build up before it flakes off. Run it easy.

Octane booster will add substantial new deposits which will increase the potential for pinging because they retain heat. The build up look like round fuzzy bumps on the pistons. Do not use it.

Forget what I posted. I know nothing just ask my wife and kids.
Not sure why, anyone would want to remove all the carbon from the combustion chamber.. Decarbonizing is good if you have issues with the motor breather dumping oil mist into the intake causing excessive build up but a nice hard layer of carbon acts as a thermal barrier which is good for isolating the combustion heat in the chamber and exhaust port from the cylinder head and the top of the piston.
 


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