Didn't get any comments in the engine/tuner forum so I thought I'd repost here; there's a lot of FP3 knowledge here!

So I've been reading a lot of good things about V&H FP3 tuner. Especially its' auto tune feature. From what I've read, you load a map to start, then run one or more auto tune sessions to achieve an "optimal" tune for your bike. Sounds straight forward enough.

My question is: if you're going to run through a few auto tune cycles, does it it matter what map you start with? Will you always end up with the same "optimal" map?

For example, I don't have VH components. No worries, I can load a generic map based on a generic exhaust. Or I can pick a VH setup that is similar to mine in terms of slip on diameter and baffle type. If I load one of these and auto tune will I end up with the same tune as if I chose the other as a starting point and auto tuned?

Please don't reply saying FP3 stinks, or telling me to gets PCV or anything else. I'm not asking for opinions on what to buy. I'm asking for knowledge on how the FP3 actually works. If you know, please enlighten me!

 

Pick your comparable map or call V&H and tell them what you are running. They will recommend a map. Flash that map. It will also store your stock map. Then choose the flashed map to Autotune. Go from there. Be advised, it will run rough during cold or warm starts in the beginning when you are in Autotune mode. This is normal & will go away when you final flash. You will then have three stored maps. Stock, V&H recommended map & the Autotune map. Also, I recommend changing Throttle Progressivity setting to Standard Plus or even Moderate. I love my FP3 by the way.

 

Yes, it matters. The FP3 is an outstanding piece of equipment, but the autotune function has limits.

Pick the map closest to your setup, and autotune from there if you're going to. If you're not sure which to use, ask VH through the app.

GM

 

Ok. Thanks. And that makes sense, of course. I was just curious how capable it was. I guess the number of possible variations is so large that if you don't start with a reasonable map, it would take hours (or years maybe) to actually auto tune to the ideal map, if it could get there at all!

 

What is your set up by the way?

 

Stock headers (no cat because they are 2007), high flow air cleaner and Rush Big Louie 4" pipes. I'm currently Stage 1 mapped via SERT but I get serious decel popping. And I foresee true dual headers in my future. If I mapped and tuned for my existing setup would I get a new map and retune once I went to true duals? Or could I just go straight to auto tune?

 

I would start over with V&H's mapping for True Duals, High AirFlow Breather, and an exaust close to the Big Louie, and then Auto Tune from there. You might get lucky and they may have a tune for Rush pipes. I know they have one for Pythons.

 

Your question about it if it matters which map you should start with if you're going to auto tune anyway, yes it does because auto tune only changes the VE's by reading the O2 sensors. Your AFR is set in the map you choose. This is what's recommended to do:
Flash the map that's recommended by V&H, run a tank of gas on that tune before you go into auto tune as your ECM makes minor adjustments as needed. Once you start auto tune, ride various speeds and not a steady speed for long periods. You'll be filling in the auto tune grid at various throttle settings and RPM's and as the ECM learns what it reads from the O2 sensors, it sets new VE's accordingly. It won't actually make those changes then but it will when you apply learned values later. After about 20 to 30 minutes and you have filled a number of fields green, then you "Apply Learned Values" and do another 2 or 3 runs and try to fill in as many fields as you can. You'll miss on the low RPM high throttle areas as well as the high RPM low throttle areas but we don't ride in those areas anyway. Your filled in green areas will look like the shape of a football at a 45 degree angle. After you've done enough auto tune sessions, then you'll flash that tune and you're finished. During auto tune, the accel enrichment among other things are turned off so your bike may feel strange but as you apply each auto tune session, it will improve and it will especially improve when you flash it at the end.
Fantastic product with equally fantastic support. And, there are more features coming too that you'll download to your FP3.
Ride safe!
John

 

I have an FP3 and a full Rush system. When I started out I only had the Big Louie's and AC with stock headers. First map I ran was the VH twin slash rounds with stock headers map. Worked great. I put my 7017HO headers on first part of the week and was told to run dresser duals w/hi output slip ons for the new map. Ran almost a full tank through yesterday evening and it's doing well so far, does have a tiny bit of decal pop around 2k-2500. I have not adjusted for development pop yet and I will play with throttle progressivity. I'm going to run 1 more tank through before I change any settings or start an autotune session on it.

With your catless headers you may want to give the dresser dual maps a look.

 

Perfect! Thank you! That's the sort of information I was wondering about, and I appreciate the detail! I didn't realize that auto tune didn't alter the AFR table. So it IS important to start with one that properly corresponds to your bike. If you play with the decel pop settings, will that change the AFR at low or zero throttle entries? Or will it just alter the decel enleanment table? I know, I'm getting techie here...

One thing that I definitely like about the FP3 vs other options is that it USES the O2 sensors - it doesn't ignore them or have you remove them. A closed-loop tuner like this HAS to be more effective than an open loop one.