So I've been meaning to check my head bearings for a while now, and reading my service manual the other night prompted me to get stuck into this one.
So got everything disconnected, nacelle off etc and it goes to the right but then only moves very slightly back, not even to centre. So I set about trying to adjust the nut (which is a nightmare to see) but the nut isn't moving anywhere! I think it's been left un-adjusted for some time! I can also see that some of the tabs on the nut have been broken off.
What started off as what I hoped would be relatively simple has now got even more complicated as I need to get the top clamp off and my forks seem to be stuck fast in the triple clamps! I've managed to get the left one moved about 2 inches but the right one isn't going anywhere. Have done a little reading on here about various methods which I'll try tomorrow - have left them soaking with a dose of WD40 in the meantime!
I am starting to think also that after 68k miles they'e probably going to need replacing too....
Finally got the forks out, left side was a nightmare!! Now, the bearing races...interesting, no way you can get a drift on them like normal - think I am going to need a tool :-(
If the races look good (no pitting, galling or any roughness or impressions) just leave them in. If you feel you need to replace the bearings then go ahead, but the lower bearing will need pressed off and back on. There is not a lot of movement of these bearings so as long as they look good, not damaged or rusty and are smooth, they are good to go. The important thing is they are well packed with high heat resistant grease and tightened properly, then the neck filled with the same grease. Some do not think the neck needs filled with grease so that is another option, but the bearings need well packed at the very least. With the neck full of grease when you do the yearly greasing it takes fewer pumps of grease.
I used to work in a frame and fork shop. There's a special grease that's used for the wheel bearings on boat trailers (you can find it at a big auto parts store). It's water resistant, and keeps your bearings from rusting. Some regular greases actually retain water in them if they get wet.
I did a re&re on my bagger last winter.
The tools you'll need are a lot cheaper than the service shop, (Motion Pro race removal tool, Jim's Race installer kit) the bottom bearing inner race can be a bear to remove off the stem. When you adjust the star adjuster keep in mind the top nut tightening will also have an effect in the swing pattern.
Problem is trying to find someone in the UK that sells the tools for working on HD's - that for example is 60GBP vs 60USD in the UK, that's like nearly 80USD. :-(
Having just been out there again for a real close look on the races they look in perfect condition, showed a picture to a local indy too and he said they looked fine.
08-09-2016, 03:48 PM
Head Bearing Adjustment Problems
