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Properly bleeding ABS brakes... what's the cheat?

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  #111  
Old 04-09-2023 | 04:08 PM
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702
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Originally Posted by Cle_rider
Thanks for all the info you have offered on this. I think you've sold me on this as the way to go. it's nice to hear from those that used it rather then speculation about what's available just googling it.
Those Google quoting, YouTube Certified, argumentative know nothings sure are annoying aren't they? I'm glad I was able to provide factual information that you found useful.
 
  #112  
Old 08-15-2023 | 08:28 PM
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Rounders
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Used the daytona twin tec 4 yesterday. challenge was getting port set up. Back breaks went fine. Front didn't pulse, went back and tested back and again and nothing. Tried again and it did. Not sure why. I did wonder if maybe I was holding breaks before I started, and that stopped it from starting?

I already got something plugged into the system fuse. So I went and bought another fuse so I don't have to pull those little buggers out. You need the 7.5 fuse out fuse box, and the 3 amp fuse it comes with.

I first purchased the one that comes with tablet, but it has to be on internet to work. Which was no go for me.

I probably won't use all the features this one has. I could see programming keys to match if you have multiple bikes with fobs.

I believe the bike has to be on with kill switch on too. Not positive.

You need to download usb driver, and software. Then go into device manager to see what port its on.
 
  #113  
Old 11-05-2023 | 03:04 PM
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Hog happy
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Simply the best explanation of the entire braking system including the ABS module. This should answer almost any question anyone might have in this thread. Thanks!

I should have included the quote. I'll try this again.
 

Last edited by Hog happy; 11-05-2023 at 03:09 PM.
  #114  
Old 11-05-2023 | 03:13 PM
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Hog happy
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Originally Posted by StoneTrekker
I hope people realize that application of the brakes doesn't make brake fluid flow through the lines or various components. Sure...a very small amount of fluid movement happens. Applying the brakes simply pressurizes the fluid system enough to move caliper pistons the tiny distances needed to contact the rotors. Applying more brake pressure just pressurizes the fluid more. When an ABS module activates in an over-brake situation, the system of valves and pistons rapidly and repeatedly interrupts the high brake pressure enough to permit wheel movement. Fluid is not flowing through the module to any degree, but fluid pressure is rapidly fluctuating up and down by the module doing its work. I think there's a perception of the ABS module somehow allowing brake fluid to flow in a sort of bypass effect. Not true. Activating the ABS intentionally while riding is not an effective way to purge old existing brake fluid completely out of the module.
This explanation is the best I've seen on the operation of the entire braking system including the ABS module. This should answer most questions that are asked in this thread. Thanks!
 
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