Appears to me the choice of metal used for the actuator valves could have been better.
My bleeding procedure is to first use a cheap turkey baster to remove all the brake fluid from the reservoir, then wipe the inside clean. Fill with new fluid. Then bleed the system as you keep topping off the reservoir never allowing air in the system. I do the same with my other vehicles. The Mity Vac is my tool of choice for this, use whatever you like.
As for some vehicles, it may be helpful to spray some penetrating oil on the bleeders a day or two before you do the work. Try to use a good fitting tool to loosen the bleeders with good even leverage.
I highly recommend a one person brake bleeding procedure to help keep peace in the house!

 

At 41,000 miles my ABS failed. The dealer also replaced master cyl. and fluid. My brake fluid I don't believe was ever changed. Dealer said I had 4% water in the line. However I will file with the NHTSA tomorrow. All my service has been done either with HD dealer or an HD independent. Oh well. S*** happens.

 

What did hd do different that their not having this issue on the 2012 and up models ?

 

Moisture in a brake system is easy enough to detect. Test strips are available from most auto parts stores. Here is an example.

http://www.gwrauto.com/stripdip.htm

 

I agree. After reading this thread there some good info and a few ignorant remarks from those that know nothing about mechanics or preventative maintenance.
One thing about motorcycles is; they have a very small reservoir as compared to an auto, the nature of motorcycle riding is using the brakes hard especially spirited riding. This will cause brake fluid to get hot quicker unlike a car that has a larger system and is in a protected compartment as compared to being exposed to the elements (yes its hot under the hood but its a stable environment, but it should be changed as a PM item).
When any oil or fluid collects moisture or is contaminated by water, that fluid becomes acidic, which by definition is corrosive, now add some form metal degradation with microscopic pieces floating in the system, now those bits of metal turn rusty and destroy orings and will lodge in small orifices of say a solenoid, and you have an ABS failure. Quite understandable, thats why it is recommended to change your fluids.
In all my years in the transportation and maintenance field, it makes my head spin that a great majority of vehicle owners just drive and never service things until something breaks, then blame the vehicle.

 

I highly recommend a one person brake bleeding procedure to help keep peace in the house! Spoken from experience, I'm sure. :>)

 

To say moisture alone is the issue is like saying Dunlop tires have a problem wearing out prematurely because people ride them on pavement. Note the issue is with 2008 to 2011 Harleys. Also (and more importantly) it only affects ABS braking systems. It can affect other vehicles but these ABS systems are more likely to have issues with old brake fluid that has absorbed moisture. Before ABS there could still be moisture in the fluid but it would not make the calipers or master cylinders fail. These parts are still not failing. It's the ABS module that's failing. This component has the valving that releases the brake pressure when it thinks the wheel is locked up.

http://repairpal.com/brake-fluid-replacement

The 2008 to 2011 ABS have issues that cause them to fail with old brake fluid that has moisture in it. I think if you replace the brake fluid every 2 years you can avoid issues.

 

Install some SpeedBleeders and it's no chore to drain and refill your brake system every two years.

I did a bleed/change about a month ago (third time since 2009) and there was no grit at all in either master cylinder. I always use silicone DOT 4 and the old stuff came out as clear as the new stuff going in.

Preventive maintenance is the key with any vehicle but if there's a manufacturing defect, it will not help.

 

This is not an unheard of practice my wife's 07 BMW X5 has a brake fluid change indicator built into the service reminder page in the dash.

 

I would suggest caution by the DIY folks to also consider the already opened brake fluid sitting on your shops shelf. How long has it been there and it's potentially moisture contaminated when replacing it. There's a reason brake fluids all are in a sealed container when purchased.
Just sayin...