Stock AC Mods for Stage 1
#11
#12
Hey all -
Thanks for the replies/suggestions.
I was searching online for ACs yesterday. I may go with Fuel Moto's FM117-460 AC kit at a discount if I also purchase the Dynojet PV2 from them.
I spoke with FM's tech. I'm on the fence about whether or not to divert the crankcase vents away from the AC and throttle body. If I do, it appears the FM117-460 AC backing plate may be easily modded to run the vent tube through the backing plate and down elsewhere to drain. As I indicated previously, at a 3.5 qts oil fill with filter change, it doesn't appear that I am getting a lot of oil in the AC cartridge or throttle body after a 4K mile check.
Thanks and regards...
Thanks for the replies/suggestions.
I was searching online for ACs yesterday. I may go with Fuel Moto's FM117-460 AC kit at a discount if I also purchase the Dynojet PV2 from them.
I spoke with FM's tech. I'm on the fence about whether or not to divert the crankcase vents away from the AC and throttle body. If I do, it appears the FM117-460 AC backing plate may be easily modded to run the vent tube through the backing plate and down elsewhere to drain. As I indicated previously, at a 3.5 qts oil fill with filter change, it doesn't appear that I am getting a lot of oil in the AC cartridge or throttle body after a 4K mile check.
Thanks and regards...
#13
The stock Rushmore air cleaner housing flows better than the old Football on pre 2014 models.
The 2014 and newer High Output 103 air cleaner uses pressure to feed air into the engine
through the hole in the front, when the bike is moving down the road or highway. Adding a
K&N replacement air filter to the stock air cleaner housing will flow all the air a stock engine
can use. (K&N Part # HD-1614 for $60.oo)
The 2014 and newer High Output 103 air cleaner uses pressure to feed air into the engine
through the hole in the front, when the bike is moving down the road or highway. Adding a
K&N replacement air filter to the stock air cleaner housing will flow all the air a stock engine
can use. (K&N Part # HD-1614 for $60.oo)
#14
Hey OldPhat,
Yes, I'm considering using the K&N HD-1614 in the stock AC housing as well. Spending less $$ is always better...
I'm planning to use the stock AC cover/scoop. BTW - I've read there's even some question if the K&N filter element flows more air than the stock filter (?)...their configurations are the same...is there that much difference in the filter media between the two??
Also, I'm curious to know if you have any AC air pressure dynamics/numbers/data that might show the benefit of the enclosed stock AC backing plate/front scoop design vs. an open-back AC design? I'm just guessing but I would think the benefit of the closed back/front scoop is negligible at typical highway speeds...afterall it's just a scoop, not an active air-induction system...but I may be wrong. I'm open to hearing that debate...
Thanks...
Yes, I'm considering using the K&N HD-1614 in the stock AC housing as well. Spending less $$ is always better...
I'm planning to use the stock AC cover/scoop. BTW - I've read there's even some question if the K&N filter element flows more air than the stock filter (?)...their configurations are the same...is there that much difference in the filter media between the two??
Also, I'm curious to know if you have any AC air pressure dynamics/numbers/data that might show the benefit of the enclosed stock AC backing plate/front scoop design vs. an open-back AC design? I'm just guessing but I would think the benefit of the closed back/front scoop is negligible at typical highway speeds...afterall it's just a scoop, not an active air-induction system...but I may be wrong. I'm open to hearing that debate...
Thanks...
#15
in theory a ram air effect is a plus, so is cooler air ( denser - has more o2 molecules).
but in practice??? can probably not be measured on a street bike.
another theoretical difference is the length of the intake will affect power production and peak rpm...shorter is more power at high rpms, longer is more power at low rpms.
again, theory and I doubt anyone could ever show the diff between a high flow snorkel tube and an open back high flow intake
Mike
but in practice??? can probably not be measured on a street bike.
another theoretical difference is the length of the intake will affect power production and peak rpm...shorter is more power at high rpms, longer is more power at low rpms.
again, theory and I doubt anyone could ever show the diff between a high flow snorkel tube and an open back high flow intake
Mike
#16
Hey all,
I'm planning Stage 1 mods for my 2014 RK after the warranty expires. I'm currently considering an AC mod, Dragos Dragula 2 (2:1) exhaust and Dynojet Power Vision 2.
I've read somewhere that some folks thought the newer stock ACs delivered plenty of air, and that an aftermarket or SE AC is not necessary for Stage 1.
Has anyone modified the stock AC plastic backing plate to increase air flow for Stage 1 mods? I was thinking about cutting away some panels on the backing plate to increase air flow. Cosmetically, I'd like to keep the stock AC cover. The other AC mod I am considering is to remove the rubber crankcase vent tube (1) from the stock AC cartridge, and reroute it to the ground to eliminate sending that oil mist into the throttle body. It appears I would only need to add an appropriate length of rubber tubing to the "T" on the stock crankcase ventilation tubing and route it to the ground....seems simple enough to do, especially if the AC backing plate is open.
I use about 3.5 qts of oil in my motor after an oil change and new filter. I top off the engine per the service manual instructions...add 3 qts...run engine...recheck and top off...and it takes about 3.5 qts total). I checked my throttle body about 4,000 miles after an oil change. I had some light oil film in the throttle body but no issues of oil dripping from the AC.
So...has anyone modded the stock AC backplate for increased airflow as part of a Stage 1 set-up (and for rerouting crankcase ventilation oil)?.
Alternatively, I would consider a Stage 1 aftermarket AC unit with provisions for rerouting the oil mist from the crankcase ventilation.
Any ideas/suggestions??
Thanks...
I'm planning Stage 1 mods for my 2014 RK after the warranty expires. I'm currently considering an AC mod, Dragos Dragula 2 (2:1) exhaust and Dynojet Power Vision 2.
I've read somewhere that some folks thought the newer stock ACs delivered plenty of air, and that an aftermarket or SE AC is not necessary for Stage 1.
Has anyone modified the stock AC plastic backing plate to increase air flow for Stage 1 mods? I was thinking about cutting away some panels on the backing plate to increase air flow. Cosmetically, I'd like to keep the stock AC cover. The other AC mod I am considering is to remove the rubber crankcase vent tube (1) from the stock AC cartridge, and reroute it to the ground to eliminate sending that oil mist into the throttle body. It appears I would only need to add an appropriate length of rubber tubing to the "T" on the stock crankcase ventilation tubing and route it to the ground....seems simple enough to do, especially if the AC backing plate is open.
I use about 3.5 qts of oil in my motor after an oil change and new filter. I top off the engine per the service manual instructions...add 3 qts...run engine...recheck and top off...and it takes about 3.5 qts total). I checked my throttle body about 4,000 miles after an oil change. I had some light oil film in the throttle body but no issues of oil dripping from the AC.
So...has anyone modded the stock AC backplate for increased airflow as part of a Stage 1 set-up (and for rerouting crankcase ventilation oil)?.
Alternatively, I would consider a Stage 1 aftermarket AC unit with provisions for rerouting the oil mist from the crankcase ventilation.
Any ideas/suggestions??
Thanks...
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-included.html
#17
The stock Rushmore air cleaner housing flows better than the old Football on pre 2014 models.
The 2014 and newer High Output 103 air cleaner uses pressure to feed air into the engine
through the hole in the front, when the bike is moving down the road or highway. Adding a
K&N replacement air filter to the stock air cleaner housing will flow all the air a stock engine
can use. (K&N Part # HD-1614 for $60.oo)
The 2014 and newer High Output 103 air cleaner uses pressure to feed air into the engine
through the hole in the front, when the bike is moving down the road or highway. Adding a
K&N replacement air filter to the stock air cleaner housing will flow all the air a stock engine
can use. (K&N Part # HD-1614 for $60.oo)
#18
in theory a ram air effect is a plus, so is cooler air ( denser - has more o2 molecules).
but in practice??? can probably not be measured on a street bike.
another theoretical difference is the length of the intake will affect power production and peak rpm...shorter is more power at high rpms, longer is more power at low rpms.
again, theory and I doubt anyone could ever show the diff between a high flow snorkel tube and an open back high flow intake
Mike
but in practice??? can probably not be measured on a street bike.
another theoretical difference is the length of the intake will affect power production and peak rpm...shorter is more power at high rpms, longer is more power at low rpms.
again, theory and I doubt anyone could ever show the diff between a high flow snorkel tube and an open back high flow intake
Mike
#19
Has anybody rode with a stock air cleaner and element, a stock air cleaner and K&N element and a stock cover with an open backing plate and K&N style element??? Have you noticed ANY difference in performance? I tried these three and the ONLY noticeable difference is more noise with the open backing plate.
My air cleaner area is clean, maybe a slight oil mist going into the engine from the stock breather system but I don't understand all the worrying and hand wringing about it. I hope I'm not destroying my bike by not making these changes and over thinking all this.
Good luck to all you who can potentially flow more clean air than I can with a stage one bike and think you are faster. I do understand changing this stuff for looks but not for performance.
My air cleaner area is clean, maybe a slight oil mist going into the engine from the stock breather system but I don't understand all the worrying and hand wringing about it. I hope I'm not destroying my bike by not making these changes and over thinking all this.
Good luck to all you who can potentially flow more clean air than I can with a stage one bike and think you are faster. I do understand changing this stuff for looks but not for performance.